RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (Full Version)

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deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (5/13/2007 3:10 AM)

Thanks Lee, see ya next Sat. at the Giant Scale Fly-In.

Got the other aileron all fitted up, next will do the "rib anti-twist tape". Glenn supplies a spool of 1/4" (7mm) tape for this.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Top%20Wing/R15.jpg[/IMG]
I marked out the location of the tape and just ran the tape over and under the ribs around the tip and then back the other way creating the X or criss-cross. When all lined up I put a drop of CA at each rib.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Top%20Wing/R17.jpg[/IMG]
OK, except for mounting the aileron servo's the top wing is now all framed and sanded. The clear plastic tubing in the second picture is for the aileron servo extention.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Top%20Wing/R16.jpg[/IMG]
Now it's on to finishing the middle wing.

Del



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (5/14/2007 7:18 PM)

Ok, the next thing I'm going to do to the mid-wing is add the radiused cut-outs. These parts will have five laminations. Three 1/16"x 1/4" spruce and two 1/32" bass. Again you are provided with two cardboard templates that you tape together.
I pinned the template to the bench, soaked the strips in hot water and using wood glue (Titebond) I brushed the glue on all the strips and using T-pins about every 1/4" or so formed the strips around the template. Let dry several hours then did the second one the same way.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Mid%20wing/R1.jpg[/IMG]
Next you need to set the mid-wing in the saddle on the platform and put the cabanes on and tighten down. This is necessary to get the proper angle and spacing for the rear ribs (22A) to clear the cabane.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Mid%20wing/R2.jpg[/IMG]



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (5/14/2007 7:31 PM)

Next just sand to shape and glue in place. Becomes a very strong part of the structure.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Mid%20wing/R3.jpg[/IMG]
As mentioned before the top and mid-wing are both built off the platform and come off for transportation or storage as one unit. However, if for whatever reason you need to remove the mid-wing from the platform you must first loosen the cabanes for the wing to clear.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Mid%20wing/R4.jpg[/IMG]
Next will work on putting the 1/32 ply "sawtooth" leading edge pieces on.

Del



Womenfly2 -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (5/16/2007 6:39 PM)

Very nice Del. Looking forward to seeing more pictures of your DR.1 build and very, very glad to hear you are doing well and back at it!

Question for you: in post 299 referring to the ends of the saw tooth leading edge, it looks like you have small wood block spacers between it and the box spar. On the full size plane was it not attached right to the box spar directly without any wood spacer? Just curious.


WF2



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (5/16/2007 7:40 PM)

Thank you WF2, I am doing very well and able to do more on the Dr.1 each week. Moving along real well this week.

Yes, there is a small spacer (1/8") per Glenn's drawings. I beleave I've seen drawings both ways, so I'd say in his research Glenn determined it had the spacer.
There is that photo of the captured 144/17, but in blowing it up, due to the make up of the photo (bunch of little dots) it's really hard to say for sure ?????

Del



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (5/20/2007 1:15 AM)

A couple shots of the Dr.1 today at a local Giant Scale Fly-In. It was well received by the group.
Lots of good comments on the engineering and construction methods of how easy Glenn made it for ease of assembly and transporting. Good work Glenn.......
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Assembly/R4.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Assembly/R3.jpg[/IMG]
As you can see I've finished the wing tips and the cross tapeing on the top and mid wing. Will finish up the bottom wing tomorrow.
Next will probably sheet the sub wing. That will be done with 1/32" ply.

Del



WinterHawke -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (5/21/2007 3:25 AM)

Del, It was great catching up with you at the 169th Aero Squadron's 22nd Annual Cliff Kell Memorial Giant Scale Fly-in. I'm attaching a few photos of the Triplane on display:

First up, Del, left, discussing the finer points of Triplane:

[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/WinterHawke/2007%20169th%20Blue%20Chip/169thFly-In2007009.jpg[/IMG]

(bye the bye, Del, you looked a heckofalot better post surgery than pre - guess all that extra blood IS going to your head!!!

Close-up of the Triplane:

[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/WinterHawke/2007%20169th%20Blue%20Chip/169thFly-In2007010.jpg[/IMG]

Del disassembling the Triplane - it does go together and comes apart apparently really easily!:

[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/WinterHawke/2007%20169th%20Blue%20Chip/169thFly-In2007014.jpg[/IMG]

Three major subassemblies, the fuselage (sans tailfeathers), lower wing (already loaded in the van), and mid-wing/upper-wing:

[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/WinterHawke/2007%20169th%20Blue%20Chip/169thFly-In2007020.jpg[/IMG]

And how it went into Del's van - the tailfeathers remove at this stage only for easy and safe handling - it's obvious that it would transport easily with the tail in place:

[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/WinterHawke/2007%20169th%20Blue%20Chip/169thFly-In2007022.jpg[/IMG]

The Triplane really looked good out on the flightline - and you're right - it got a LOT of attention, all well deserved. Looking forward to the final beauty shots of this one once you finish off the lower wing and subwing!

Hope to catch up again with you and Mary next weekend!

'til later,

Lee




abufletcher -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (5/21/2007 5:05 AM)

Wow! Thanks for posting these photos. The tripe looks so stunning on my 20" monitor, I can't imagine what it must be like to see it in person!



Fokker_in_the_clouds -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (5/21/2007 9:07 AM)

Great Work!!!!!!!!



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (5/27/2007 8:05 PM)

Thanks Don & Fok. in the clouds, it is quite the airplane. Should be a great flyer.

Been working on the sub wing ( will have some pics later). Glenn has been out in Calif. for a while on his day job, so hasn't been able to finish up the hood area, but should get to it soon.
It's getting real close to being ready to cover. We want to get some real good photos of it finished in the bones before start covering.
Also need to build me a test stand and get some run time on the engine.

As you can see in Lee's photo's it fits very well in a full size van (standard wheelbase) with all but the front seats out, so transport is not a problem.
Now, when I take my two 1/4 scales along also, I have an old 10' Pop-Up camper that I stripped the canvas and bed platforms off of. Great for hauling planes.
Later

Del



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (5/31/2007 9:04 PM)

Ok, once you have the sub wing all aligned, before you take it back apart you want to take a pencil or pen and mark along all edges of the struts onto the 1/2" ply ribs (remember the struts go on the inside of these ribs).
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/aa.jpg[/IMG]
These marks will be used to locate the strut holes in the top ply sheeting.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010006.jpg[/IMG]



FokkerAce -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (5/31/2007 10:23 PM)

This model looks wonderful!

FA



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/1/2007 1:40 PM)

Almost forgot to mention that I made the 1/8" ply end ribs removeable. This can serves two perposes, one for easy access to the strut mounting screws and second it make replacing or adjusting the tention on the bungie cords easier.
To do this I cut pieces if 5/16" dowel, glued one right behind the leading edge spar and the second one right in front of the 1/8" dowel trailing spar. Put the ply rib on and drilled a small hole through the rib into the 5/16" dowel for a small wood screw.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010003.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010002.jpg[/IMG]



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/1/2007 1:57 PM)

The 1/32" ply sheeting comes in three pieces, a shorter top TE piece, a longer center piece that wraps around the LE and a bottom TE piece.
I first soaked the center piece in hot water and pre shaped it for the LE. I then measured about 3 3/4" up from the TE of the 1/2" ply ribs and made a mark. Then putting a bead of glue (thick CA) along the top of the ribs from my mark to the LE spar, (if you're making the ply end ribs removable "Do Not Glue Them". Line the sheeting up with the mark and form it down the the LE, hold in place till cures.
YOU DO NOT GLUE THE SHEETING TO THE BOTTOM OF THE RIBS AT THIS TIME.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010004.jpg[/IMG]



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/1/2007 2:24 PM)

Next I glued the top TE ply on, but first the area between the ribs I like to glue a doubler or backing piece (made from scrap) to make for a better and smoother joint. The TE sheeting will hang over the end of the ribs some, that will be trimmed later.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010007.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010008.jpg[/IMG]



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/1/2007 2:31 PM)

Going back to this shot you see the lines that were drawn along the sides of the struts.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010006.jpg[/IMG]
With a 3/16" drill I drilled a hole to the inside of each mark, then using an x-acto knife I cut out between the holes and carved out just enough for the strut to fit nicely.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010009.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010010.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010011.jpg[/IMG]



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/1/2007 2:50 PM)

One thing that you will notice that unlike Glenn's DVIII and DVI where the gear mounting blocks are both on the bottom of the fulelage, the rear mounting block of the Dr.1 is higher up. There is a hole that allows the gear wire to slide into the mounting block.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010014.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010015.jpg[/IMG]
So unlike the other two you cannot remove the J-bolts from both blocks and remove the whole gear together.
I found that you can unfasted the front struts from the block, but at least one of the rear strut must be unfastened from the sub wing first, then the wires from the rear struts will slide out.



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/1/2007 3:10 PM)

The way I tackled this was to JB-Weld the nuts to the back of the struts.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010001.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Sub-Wing/P1010013.jpg[/IMG]
This the main reason that I made the outer ply ribs removable was for easy access to the mounting screws. I also changed the slotted head screws to socket head, I found that it was easier to get to the screws with a allen ball driver.
Another option would be to make two small hatches in the bottom sheeting for access to the nuts. I chose not to do that, although that could be done later.
So you could use either or both options.

Del



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/1/2007 3:28 PM)

You can now go ahead and glue the sheeting to the bottom of the ribs and using the doublers again, glue the bottom TE sheeting to the ribs and to the top TE sheeting in the rear. Then trim and sand the TE and the top and bottom joints in the sheeting.
You will probably only have to remove the gear and sub wing a couple times during the building and then when covering and painting. I found it easy to do and no big deal.

Del




vertical grimmace -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/2/2007 5:08 PM)

Del, Great thread. What is going to keep your main axel from sliding back and forth? I did not account for this in my first attempt at a shocked gear on my BUSA DR1 and it gave me fits. Another issue I had was my axel flexing and creating tow out on take off. This would result in a ground loop every time. My solution here was to lash the axle back and this created tow in. Now it works perfect. Keep up the good work.

RP



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/2/2007 5:54 PM)

RP....I guess I missed that, there is a hole in the lower center of the box spar and you drill a hole in the center of the axel, a screw with a lock nut keeps it all centered.

Del



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/4/2007 1:44 AM)

While waiting for the Alum. belly pan and hood parts, decided to start playing with the control cable runs. I traced the covering exit locations from the plans on some paper and taped them to the frame. For the cable guides I used I-screws. Just to see how it all looks I used some fishing line to simulate the cable.
I plan on using one heavy duty servo for the elevator and will use two for the rudder. This should keep everything pretty straight.
The servos will be all the way forward and will be accessed through the hatch in the belly pan.
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Cable%20Runs/P1010001.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a160/deljon2005/Cable%20Runs/P1010002.jpg[/IMG]
Looks pretty good.

Del



Highflyer2 -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/14/2007 1:33 PM)

Del,

Have you decided on what you are going to use as covering or will you leave it in the bones for all of us the stare at?

John



deljon -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/14/2007 1:42 PM)

Hi John..........I'm using Nelson's Lite Fab (neutral color). Will probably start covering after I get some "In Bones" pictures this weekend.
By the way, are you going to make it to the Hoosier or Dayton DP this summer??

How many others are going to make it???

Del



Highflyer2 -> RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along (6/14/2007 2:26 PM)

Del,

We haven't decided on going yet. it 's an 8-10 hr drive towing the 16 foot trailer. These third scale WW1's are BIG.

Glenn hasn't finished the all the instructions yet so I am using your build thread as a guide. Your build pictures have been worth a thousand words. I hope to be using the new RCS150 radial on my DR1. That is if i can swing past the wife.

Thanks,

John



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