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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/10/2007 1:57 PM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Hey David, yes it's coming along nicely, I'm having lots of fun with it.
This is the first time that I have framed with dowels, I like the results, will probably do more of it.
I've not heard of Homasote, but I'll look into it when I need to reserface the benches, thanks for the info...

Del

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/10/2007 5:47 PM   
vertical grimmace



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Status: online 		Yes Homasote works great. It is a grey color that looks like it was made from old newspaper print. My dad used to use this for model railroaing and I have used it ever since for my building board.
The DR1 looks great. I am just finishing up my DV11 and am heading out to the field right now to fly my 1\4 DR1. It is now nice enough to fly here and I have been going crazy.

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/11/2007 9:28 AM   
1bruno



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Status: offline 		Well the build is finally coming along. I am finishing up a BUSA DR1 1/4 scale using dowels. I saw the way you are putting the fuse together and like the idea. Sorta building a mini fuse jig, very cool. How will you sure the fuse up? Will you use Kevlar or wire for the cross bracing? Cant wait to see the final product. Cant wait to get my hands on this kit too..
Glen B

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/11/2007 2:54 PM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Glen B.......Using the dowels on the 1/4 scale Dr.1 is a neat idea, wish I'd thought of that when I built mine a year and a half ago.
Glenn said he got Kevlar for the bracing, good and strong and no possiable radio interferance. Although I using the Specktrum 7 in mine so it shouldn't be an issue using wire cable anyway (at least that's what I'm told).
I think Glenn is planning on having kits ready to ship about the first of the month. His boys will be home on spring break so he will have some extra help. Also he's planning on having some at Toledo.
Later

Del


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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/11/2007 9:33 PM   
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Status: offline 		Hi Del, Go to your local lumber yard and buy yourself a sheet of homasote. It comes in a 4x8 sheet. You can cut it with a skill saw, but make sure you do it out side it is very dusty when you cut it. I've been using it for a building surface on top of plywood for at least 25 yrs. I screw it down with sheet rock screws every 20 inches around the edge and a couple in the middle. When it gets all beat up just flip it over and you have a new surface. Or just make a big sanding block out of a 2x4 the lenght of a full piece of sand paper and sand it down clean. The stuff is great! Your DR.1 is looking fantastic! Not to tell you what to do but, If it were me I would have used titebond glue, or just a good wood glue on those dowels, only because they are hard wood. I'm sure you'll be ok with the thick zap, but kinda make like a fillet glue joint. So as it looks like a weld joint on steal. Plus it will be stronger. I get nervous with those CA glues we take for granted, on HARD WOOD. A good hard landing could shock the joints free. You know those triplanes, in the right conditions they can be a bear to land. ( I know I've had my share of nose overs thru out the yrs.) Keep up the good work, Tom

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/12/2007 8:55 AM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Tom.......Thanks for the info on Homasote, you're the third one to recomend it. I'll check into it a Lowes (about a milea and a half from where I live), they'll even cut it for you.
On the glue I have always had good success using thin CA (gotta make sure the joints are tight) first to tack up the joint, then go back over with the thick. Depending on the area will sometimes go back over with epoxy. That method has always worked well for me, (and I've had some hard landings)
Well, it's off to the day job for now.
Thanx all for your input........

Del

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/13/2007 1:19 AM   
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Status: online 		Her are a couple of pics of my BUSA DVII with Glenns fabric. I have been working so hard to get this done and now that I have warm weather, I can get my dope to dry!

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/13/2007 2:31 AM   
flyingrazor



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Status: offline 		Hi VG... the 5 color fabric looks great... just a word of warning, that the camouflage really works. In that, when I fly my D8 using the 4 color fabric and if the plane goes in front of some green trees, you need to wingle the wings to make sure to see the plane and don't loose sight of the D8. So, keep an eye on your D7. One of the reasons I picked a Fokker D6 from the red tail squadron was that the red tail really stands out, helps me see the plane. - Glenn

Del, I did the same sort-of thing. I used Zap, titebond and epoxy depending on what was being glued. I agree with Tom that hardwoods like Titebond, actually I use that for laminating my props together. Although, I have seen Zap do just as well with certain woods. Sounds like you have some experience with your method and a couple of hard landings to test out the glue joints. One thing that will help with the glue joints will be the fuselage cross-bracing. I noticed the dowel construction get very strong and sturdy. I am sure you will be pleasantly surprised. - Glenn

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/14/2007 12:53 AM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Ok, back at it tonight, putting the two sides together, squareing the up. Just tacking them for now to make sure everything is square and true.
I really like the way the dowel structure is coming out, plus very scale looking.
I got some pictures of what I been doing tonight, but unable to get on Photobucket this evening to upload them.
Will try again tomorrow.
Meanwhile I'll start glueing up the front section, firewall and gear and strut mounting blocks. I use epoxy for that.
Later

Del

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/14/2007 6:08 AM   
1bruno



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Status: offline 		del how exactly are you squaring up the fuse?
GB

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/14/2007 8:40 AM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Howdy GB..........Finely got some pictures up to show how I squared it up. First screwed down my alighment blocks over the plans to make sure both sides are parallel. Set up squares on both sides and tacked in gear and strut mounting blocks.


I am constantly checking to make sure its staying square.

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/14/2007 8:47 AM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		I then clamped in the firewall and set it the distance that I need for my engine.


I tacked in some temparary blocks to hold the firewall where I wanted it.
Again double checking everything then epoxied it all up.
One real important area is to make sure that the wing saddle lines up "dead nut", if it's off a little then the bottom wing will not be square with the fuselage.

Del

< Message edited by deljon -- 3/14/2007 8:48 AM >

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/15/2007 12:08 AM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		The next thing I'm doing is fitting the removable floor for the mid wing. By making this part removable it allows you to do two things. You will be able to remove the mid wing, hood, machine guns and top wing as one assembly.
Or you can take each wing off individually and leave the hood on. Which ever is the easiest for you for field assembly and transportation. More on this later.
The floor is 1/4" ply and the bottom is reinforced at each end with 3/8 x 3/4 hardwood. These hardwood strips will also anchor the cabane struts.

Just lay out the hole locations, clamp in place and drill.

Drill out the holes in the crossbraces to accept the T-nuts.

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/15/2007 12:20 AM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Also cut some small lingths of fuel tubeing to put over the 8-32 bolts to keep them from falling out.

Tightened the floor in place, checked it for square again, (I like to keep checking it).
The two rear bolts are just temperary while I build up the rest of the fuselage.
Later will use longer ones and they will also hold the hardwood wing saddle for the mid wing. More on that when I get to that part.

Will now clamp it back down and start putting in the spreaders for the fulelage rear section.

Del

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/15/2007 2:58 AM   
flyingrazor



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Status: offline 		Hey Del... I like all the triangles and squares. That will ensure all the parts line up just fine. Looks like everything is fitting well. Is the firewall glued in place now ? I was wondering what nuts are you planning to use to hold the engine in ? I used t-nuts where I added them prior to permanently installing the firewall. If I recall you mention 10-32 size screws were planned for the engine.... - Glenn

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/15/2007 3:49 AM   
1bruno



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Status: offline 		Del very nice work, I cant wait to get mine..... GLENN work faster.... who needs a real job.... planes man, that what is most important JK. Del and Glenn I am glad your posting this build it gives me a great reference for building mine. I love all the different ways and tricks modelers use, most of all I like to copy... Thats the best way I know how to get better.


Thanks again Del.

Glen B.

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/15/2007 8:55 AM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Glenn........Yes, everything fitting together nicely. I like to use squares a lot to make sure everything is where It's supposed to be. Even good ply will sometimes have a little bow or twist in it, so keeping square can sometimes be a bit of a challange.
Yes, I'm useing 10-32 socket head screws to hold the engine on and t-nuts are in and firewall is epoxied in place.

Thanks Glen B, I like to pass all the little tricks I learn along to others. That's how I learned most of them is from others.
The kits won't be much longer in coming and just think pretty soon you'll be having as much fun as I am.

Del

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/16/2007 8:42 PM   
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Status: offline 		Hi Del, Thanks for the call. I enjoyed our conversation. The tripe is really looking wonderful. I too hope to get to build one some day, some day is right who knows might be for a few yrs. but I sure would love one. You have plenty to do now so keep those pic's a coming!!!! Good luck, Tom

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/16/2007 9:04 PM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Hi Tom, great talking with you again and sharing ideas. Yes, you need to get you a tripe, I love them, this will be my fourth one.
I started out with the GP 1/5 scale, very fun but could be a bit of a challange at times. Then bought a 1/4 Flair and had a ball with it for about three years till a yellow Tiger Moth decided to eat it for lunch one afternoon. They don't fly too well with all three wings sliced off one side.
Last winter I built a BUSA Dr.1 and it is one great flying plane, getting ready to start it's second season. And now this one wihich I must say has been a real labor of love. It should fly fantastic.

Well, I've got a bunch of sticks glued together that's starting to look like a fuselage. Should have some pictures later this evening.
Later

Del

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/16/2007 10:35 PM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Ok, back to the fuselage, again using the squares to keep everything straight, bringing it all together one cross piece at a time.

After tacking it together at the rear I fit the rudder post and the tail skid anchor. The anchor is a 1/2" dowel that needed to be notched a little bit in order to fit it at the proper location at the lower longerons.

The top of the anchor is glued to a 1/4" ply triangle at the rear of the top longerons. This triangle will also be the attachment point for the rear of the stabalizer and the center hinge of the elevator.


< Message edited by deljon -- 3/16/2007 10:39 PM >

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/17/2007 3:00 AM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Ok, we now have a basic fuselage, it took a little longer than I had anticipated but the results were well worth the effort. As I said before, this is the first time I've used dowels to frame up a fuselage. I like it.....
I first tried fileing a radius in the ends of the uprights and cross pieces and was't satisfied with the results, plus It was taking a very long time. I then popped it back apart (just had it tacked with CA) and used the method that Glenn and others I've seen did, just made small notches, about 1/32" deep and everything just keyed together.



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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/17/2007 3:10 AM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		This is a shot of the bottom wing saddle, you can see just aft of it is a cross support piece that covers the wing spar after it is attached. It gets another one just forward (you can see the notch), will put that in later after I drill the holes for the J-bolts that hold the rear landing gear struts in. That support is almost directly under the other one.

Now will let all the glue joints cure good over night then start adding the other things. Maybe fit up the landing gear.

Del

< Message edited by deljon -- 3/17/2007 3:12 AM >

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/17/2007 4:37 AM   
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Status: offline 		Hey Del... Looking real good.. I think you have the dowel procedure down just fine... Notching dowels is the ticket. Wondering what were your thoughts were on painting the fuse ? Is that something you will do later or soon ? The frame should probably be painted prior to adding the turtledeck, fairings, fuselage cabling and similar parts. - Glenn

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/17/2007 11:27 AM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Howdy Glenn, yes I like using the dowels, I think I'll use that proceedure from now on. Will probably incorperate that into the other two kits of yours that I have.
I also need to paint the tail feathers to.

Del

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RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 3/17/2007 2:08 PM   
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Status: offline 		Hi Del, fuse is beautiful! Just a little idea, you might want to slip a piece of brass tube over that tail skid dowel. This will keep it from spliting along the grain of the dowel incase of a side load on the tail skid. In doing so the load is transferred to the brass and not the wood of the dowel. I split one myself in a fokker I built many yrs. ago, Thats when I learned my lesson on the field at Old Rhinebeck, my tail skid was left in the grass. Tom

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