Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along  
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Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/17/2006 4:40:51 AM   
deljon



Posts: 763
Joined: 10/3/2003
From: Hamilton, OH, USA
Status: offline 		First let me explain why my mug is on the site for Glenn's upcoming 1/3 scale Dr.1.
Glenn has a lot of projects going and not enough time to get all done that he wants, so he asked me if I would be interested in helping out on his next project, the 1/3 scale Dr.1. Needless to say it took me all of about .50 nano seconds to say Yes.
What we will be doing is, as he designs and cuts the parts, I will be putting them together and posting on this building thread.
As I have posted pictures and comments occasionally, I have not done a building thread before, so bear with me and I'm sure I'll get better as time goes on.
Any comments and suggestions are certainly welcome.



As seen here, my last two projects are: Glenn's low cost EV/DVIII, kicked up a notch and BUSA's Dr.1 with a few added goodies.
Looking forward to having a lot of fun with this project and building a nice airplane as it is being designed.
MORE to come soon.

Del
       Post #: 1

RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/17/2006 3:41:42 PM   
deljon



Posts: 763
Joined: 10/3/2003
From: Hamilton, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Ok, since the complete kit doesn't exist yet, I will be building as Glenn sends things to me. At this point I have the parts for all the tail feathers, the scale hinges, control horns for the tail, the seat and the sub-wing. What I'll start with is the control horns.


These are the parts for a horn, the material is G-10 or FR-4, you have two inner pieces and to outer. As you can tell they are laser cut, so I used 250 grit sand paper to get the char off and rough up the surface. This is the first time that I have used this material and found it quite easy to work with and strong.


I next took a dowel, wraped some wax paper around it and lightly clamped it after making sure everything was lined up. Oh yes, you will notice that the large hole is offset a little so care must be taken to make sure of proper alignment. This offset is for adjusting for the thickness of the hinge material. The thinner side goes forward. I then used thin CA and let it wick between all layers. This is the way I did it, you may have a diferent method.......whatever works best for you.

(in reply to deljon)
       Post #: 2

RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/17/2006 3:53:16 PM   
deljon



Posts: 763
Joined: 10/3/2003
From: Hamilton, OH, USA
Status: offline
Once glued then you can sand to an airfoil shape. Be careful not to go too far out so as not to weaken the tabs on the end. You can make them look like they were welded on like the real ones if you like.
For shaping I used a coarse file and sand paper. While it didn't really take that long to do three of them, I can see where a 1" belt sander would really shine.........Gotta get me one of those.


Here they are finish, well almost. When you paint them the little file and sand marks really show up, so will go back over them with finer paper and repaint.
That takes care of the easy part, will probably do the rudder next.
Later

Del

(in reply to deljon)
       Post #: 3

RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/17/2006 3:55:32 PM   
deljon



Posts: 763
Joined: 10/3/2003
From: Hamilton, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Oh yes, the finished horn is about 2 3/4" long and about 3/16 thick.

(in reply to deljon)
       Post #: 4

RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/17/2006 10:33:14 PM   
deljon



Posts: 763
Joined: 10/3/2003
From: Hamilton, OH, USA
Status: offline
Here you see all the parts to make the rudder. You have the three balsa and two ply strips that you laminate to get the rudders outer shape. They are soaked and glued (I use Titebond) around the cardboard pattern.
The two ribs get laminated from two balsa and one ply each. Then you have the carbon fiber rudder post.
The twelve inch scale gives an idea of the rudders size.

Del

(in reply to deljon)
       Post #: 5

RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/17/2006 10:36:46 PM   
V2PLUS10


 

Posts: 662
Joined: 5/31/2003
From: Boise, ID,
Status: offline 		Hey Del,

Those look great, I like the design...just slip the cable loop in and pin and it's attached. That G-10/FR-4 is very useful stuff to have around. This is going to be a very interesting build....I've been mulling over my next project and Glenn's 1/4 scale DR-1 is on the short list....we'll see.

Randy

(in reply to deljon)
       Post #: 6

RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/18/2006 2:52:35 AM   
WinterHawke



Posts: 171
Joined: 9/17/2003
From: Waterford, MI, USA
Status: offline 		My dear von Delby . . .

First off, Congratulations on taking on this most noble of projects!

I am Definitely looking forward as well to this thread (and not because I get to see this thing in person or touch the control sticks or anything like that!!) - - - this is the kit that the R/C WWI enthusiasts have been waiting for all these years IMHO!!!

It will also be a nice change of pace to have a machine that isn’t sooooo far out there vis-à-vis what the experts think as to how it’s painted – ‘cause I know you’re not doing F1 103/17 or Dr.1 425/17. In fact, that’s gonna be one of the fun things about this project, getting different opinions on how to paint it!!! I know you’ve got the Fokker Olive Green Streaking thing down pat – now it’s just what other paints to put on it!!!

We’ll have to keep the folks over at the ‘drome up to speed on this one (but I somehow suspect that will be no problem).

One request – sometime in the next few posts have your lovely missus hold her hand in the photo of the rudder, to give us a really good idea of scale – I’m still messed up on that metric thingie the schools were trying to foist off on us way back when, and can’t really get my mind around comparing a yardstick / meter stick / ruler to anything real!!!

Again, congrats, and keep the posts coming.

Best regards,

Lee McDuffee
the WinterHawke

Bye the bye – Randy, I REALLY loved the build thread on the Hanriot – most informative, and I have to thank you MOST sincerely for the note on Super phatic Glue – I have been unable to use CA glues for forever, and this is the next best thing I’ve ever used (without the associated CA health problems) -- many, many thanks!!! Very best of luck on future competitions with the Hanriot – I’m looking forward to reading about your successes in the modeling press!!!


_____________________________

Arguing with a Scale Judge is like wrestling a pig in the mud - After an hour or so you figure out the pig enjoys it!

(in reply to V2PLUS10)
       Post #: 7

RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/18/2006 4:06:26 PM   
vonJaerschky



Posts: 205
Joined: 8/25/2002
From: Comox, BC, CANADA
Status: offline 		Should be a real beauty. When the control horns are already impressive, you know that only good things will follow! Any idea of what you will be using for power, and what the wing area will be?

(in reply to WinterHawke)
       Post #: 8

RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/18/2006 7:25:57 PM   
deljon



Posts: 763
Joined: 10/3/2003
From: Hamilton, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Howdy Randy, yep the horns are really neat, they work just like the big boys. Good luck with your first show.
Lee....unlike the EV, there's a lot of schemes to pick from........decisions-decisions

vonJaerschky......already have the engine,a Roto 70 Twin, should have more than enough power and will probably need the weight, 5.7 lbs. I think Glenn estimated the finished weight at between 30 and 35 lbs.
This will be my first experience with a gas engine, always had 4 stroke glow.
He hasn't gotten to the wings yet, probably somewhere around 100" for the topwing.
Later

Del

(in reply to vonJaerschky)
       Post #: 9

RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/18/2006 7:34:53 PM   
deljon



Posts: 763
Joined: 10/3/2003
From: Hamilton, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Here's the two rudder ribs after glued.




Using the provided cardboard pattern, (two pieces taped together) The laminateing went rather quickly. I put a cuple inches of hot water in the bath tub and let soak for about 15 minutes. I used Titebond for the glue.
I pinned blocks all around the rudder and let dry over night.


Del

(in reply to deljon)
       Post #: 10

RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/19/2006 1:14:48 AM   
deljon



Posts: 763
Joined: 10/3/2003
From: Hamilton, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Here's the rudder with the ribs and post tacked in place. need to do more sanding to get the proper size radius.
Also did not glue the bottom of the post as a hinge and control horn need to be located and then another hinge at the bottom of the post.


Hopefully I'll get the lighting better for the photo's.
Next thing is to make the hinges with material provided.

Del

< Message edited by deljon -- 6/19/2006 1:18:14 AM >

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       Post #: 11

RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/19/2006 1:33:56 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

Posts: 662
Joined: 5/31/2003
From: Boise, ID,
Status: offline 		Del,

Looks great already....I'm having builders withdrawal symptoms so maybe this will help me through!!!

You really ought to look at a 1" belt sander with the 5" disk.....I went for years doing everything by hand and then half way through my Strutter project about four years ago I bought a little Micro-Mark drill press and a Delta belt sander......Can't live without them now!!

And Lee, I'm pleased the Super Phatic worked for you. it is great stuff...I simply passed the info along...I read about it on someone's thread either here or over at RCSB..can't remember just where now....

Randy

(in reply to deljon)
       Post #: 12

RE: Glenn Torrence (GTM) 1/3 Scale Dr.1 Build Along - 6/19/2006 1:41:45 AM   
deljon



Posts: 763
Joined: 10/3/2003
From: Hamilton, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Here are the parts for one hinge, soft steel strap that needs to be bent in a U shape (laser cut), a 11/32 brass bushing that will go inside the strap and a locking color for each side. They will be pinned through the post.


Next you see the strap clamped to a 11/32 steel dowel. Make sure you have it centered and just use your thumb to roll the strap around the dowel. It forms very easy.


Del

< Message edited by deljon -- 6/19/2006 7:48:53 AM >

(in reply to deljon)
       Post #: 13