Next came the shaping of the stab TE: I changed my mind on how to seal the gap, more on this later.
Here is what I meant. The pic shows 3 different ways to seal the hinge gap:
- B is the most common and easiest to deal with since it involves simple triangle stock
- C is also used but it is more involved since it requires you to sand down the sheeting to a certain depth and it can be dangerous or at least time-consuming
- A is what I chose: instead of sanding down the already built structure I opted to use it to seal the gap.
The little concave-shaped foil will be added later on and it will probably be fiberglass.
Here are the updates of these days... basically add a block, trim it, shape it and add another block... quite boring.
Depending on the adhesive you use each block 'adding' may require a day to cure... I used GG and epoxy and this is why it took me a few days to get a few blocks in place.
I AB-used of GG when I added the spacer sheet: the results can be seen in the first pic; no problem anyway, GG sands easily but do yourself a favour and mask the sheeting!
After the trimming I drew the gudgeon slots onto the spacer sheet and cut them.
Tip: I found the DUBRO hinge tool + marker very useful to draw a perfect centerline on TEs.
Next comes the hinge line. Before that I opened the holes through the compensating tab all the way to the tip in the cleanest possible way: I opted for a sharpened threaded rod as it actually 'files' the wood.
I tack-glued the nyrod in place (ONTO the centerline please) with the rod inside to assure straightness.
Next I carved the groove channel into the LE block using my drill press and a simple jig.
Hi Giacomo..... Sorry for the delay, I had a H.D failure...so... , , but I'm here again.
Cockpit PART 1.
First you have to splite up (in plan ) the cockpit into 2 Level's. 1: Windshield ( lite ply ) 2: Top of cockpit ( balsa ) ...foto 1...
Cut from lite ply the piece with the notch (which is the central one of the front windshield) following the curves of the basic design .Then also cut 2 pieces for the side windows just like Dumas desing ... foto 2-3-4-5
Of course you musten't forget that the actual dimensions of the side windshield are in the ground plan ... foto 6
The mod you have to carry out here, is to increase the thickness of the windshield frame from 2mm to 3-4mm . It's up to you !! ...foto 7
Today I was finally able to hinge the elevators to the stab.
I made the gudgeons first and opened their slots into the stab TE next. The gudgeons you see will soon be replaced with slightly different ones, maybe G10 instead of birch ply.
The first hinging test showed something I expected: interference between the compensating tab LE and the stab. This is due to the totally different 'rotation' of the tab.
No matter, just trim it down a little more... until it clears the TE.
The detail pic shows why one of the gudgeon slot is wider than the other: there will be the elevator control horn, G10 custom made.
One last thing to do before filling and final sanding is to insert those tiny ply discs to support the locking pins/screws on both sides of the sheeting.
Everything is now filled and ready for final sanding... I hate it, how much is 'final'? is that really finished? is everything 'really' ok? there must be an end to things!!!
After you have cut the 3 pieces, you must glue them in the spots shown in ...photo 1... with a small amount of C.A in order to be stabilised in their place . You must pay attention to the right angle of the piece with the notch . Now it's time for the upper part of the cockpit witch you will also divide in 3 levels...photo 2... witch are made from scrap of balsa ,joined together . ...photo 3... I didn't use a block of balsa because of the weight .
1 level is totally flat from side to side ...photo 4... 2 level is made with 3 pieces ...photo 5... 3 level is made with 4 pieces ...photo 6...
The pieces have the shape you see in the pictures and they are put in a specific way in order to create the right curves of the cockpit ...photo 7...