RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215  
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 9/17/2007 8:27:51 PM   
g_boxwood



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Next came the shaping of the stab TE: I changed my mind on how to seal the gap, more on this later.

I used a PVC tube of appropriate OD to shape the TE to the required concave shape.

And finally I added the spacer sheet to the elevators LE.

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Giacomo 'g_boxwood' Bosso

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 9/18/2007 10:20:14 AM   
g_boxwood



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quote:

Next came the shaping of the stab TE: I changed my mind on how to seal the gap, more on this later.

Here is what I meant. The pic shows 3 different ways to seal the hinge gap:



- B is the most common and easiest to deal with since it involves simple triangle stock

- C is also used but it is more involved since it requires you to sand down the sheeting to a certain depth and it can be dangerous or at least time-consuming

- A is what I chose: instead of sanding down the already built structure I opted to use it to seal the gap.

The little concave-shaped foil will be added later on and it will probably be fiberglass.

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Giacomo 'g_boxwood' Bosso

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 9/19/2007 6:39:38 AM   
Kmot



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Giacomo,

A little inspiration for you. These are all great videos!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDe378Ac4ao

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hdWPsQ-sEE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7DV11UkWws

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uit-PDJ7Pk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YA0OSYnL_fc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdJMMSsE5JY

Ciao!

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Ahhh......screw it!

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 9/19/2007 6:56:25 PM   
g_boxwood



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Yes, great videos! The first low pass is amazing!

Here are the updates of these days... basically add a block, trim it, shape it and add another block... quite boring.

Depending on the adhesive you use each block 'adding' may require a day to cure... I used GG and epoxy and this is why it took me a few days to get a few blocks in place.

I AB-used of GG when I added the spacer sheet: the results can be seen in the first pic; no problem anyway, GG sands easily but do yourself a favour and mask the sheeting!

After the trimming I drew the gudgeon slots onto the spacer sheet and cut them.

Tip: I found the DUBRO hinge tool + marker very useful to draw a perfect centerline on TEs.

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Giacomo 'g_boxwood' Bosso

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 9/19/2007 7:02:37 PM   
g_boxwood



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Next comes the hinge line. Before that I opened the holes through the compensating tab all the way to the tip in the cleanest possible way: I opted for a sharpened threaded rod as it actually 'files' the wood.

I tack-glued the nyrod in place (ONTO the centerline please) with the rod inside to assure straightness.

Next I carved the groove channel into the LE block using my drill press and a simple jig.

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 9/19/2007 7:08:46 PM   
g_boxwood



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The LE blocks require good old epoxy + microballons to seal down everything and fill the square groove around the circular nyrod.

Next the trimming and shaping and then the LAST block, the compensating tab LE, this time CA!!!

Finally the rounding and the cutting of the gudgeon slots through the LE.

Rod trial-fit and completed elevators (minus final filling and sanding).

Gudgeons will be done tomorrow, along with filling and final sanding = fiberglass preparation.

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 9/20/2007 8:24:46 AM   
teresos



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Hi Giacomo.....
Sorry for the delay, I had a H.D failure...so... , , but I'm here again.

Cockpit PART 1.

First you have to splite up (in plan ) the cockpit into 2 Level's.
1: Windshield ( lite ply )
2: Top of cockpit ( balsa ) ...foto 1...

Cut from lite ply the piece with the notch (which is the central one of the front windshield)
following the curves of the basic design .Then also cut 2 pieces for the side windows just
like Dumas desing ... foto 2-3-4-5

Of course you musten't forget that the actual dimensions of the side windshield are
in the ground plan ... foto 6

The mod you have to carry out here, is to increase the thickness of the windshield
frame from 2mm to 3-4mm . It's up to you !! ...foto 7





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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 9/20/2007 11:45:28 AM   
g_boxwood



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WOW! Wonderful! Thank you very much!

I'll finish with the stab/elevator and then I'll start it!

I was thinking about making one and use it as a plug for a composite version... we'll see.

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 9/20/2007 1:58:19 PM   
Baldeagle


 

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Very nice work. Rich

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Rich

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 9/20/2007 4:52:07 PM   
g_boxwood



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Thank you Rich. Glad you stopped by!

Today I was finally able to hinge the elevators to the stab.

I made the gudgeons first and opened their slots into the stab TE next. The gudgeons you see will soon be replaced with slightly different ones, maybe G10 instead of birch ply.

The first hinging test showed something I expected: interference between the compensating tab LE and the stab. This is due to the totally different 'rotation' of the tab.

No matter, just trim it down a little more... until it clears the TE.

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 9/20/2007 4:59:48 PM   
g_boxwood



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The detail pic shows why one of the gudgeon slot is wider than the other: there will be the elevator control horn, G10 custom made.

One last thing to do before filling and final sanding is to insert those tiny ply discs to support the locking pins/screws on both sides of the sheeting.

Everything is now filled and ready for final sanding... I hate it, how much is 'final'? is that really finished? is everything 'really' ok? there must be an end to things!!!

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 9/22/2007 1:01:49 PM   
teresos



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Cockpit PART 2

After you have cut the 3 pieces, you must glue them in the spots shown in ...photo 1... with a small
amount of C.A in order to be stabilised in their place . You must pay attention to the right angle
of the piece with the notch .
Now it's time for the upper part of the cockpit witch you will also divide in 3 levels...photo 2...
witch are made from scrap of balsa ,joined together . ...photo 3...
I didn't use a block of balsa because of the weight .

1 level is totally flat from side to side ...photo 4...
2 level is made with 3 pieces ...photo 5...
3 level is made with 4 pieces ...photo 6...

The pieces have the shape you see in the pictures and they are put in a specific way in order
to create the right curves of the cockpit ...photo 7...

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