RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215  
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 12/14/2007 4:21 PM   
g_boxwood



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From: Torino, ITALY
Status: offline 		I think this will be the last update of the year... I'll then have to stop and get back to the books for my final run to the degree...

Basically I decided to seal the rudder TE as I did with the stab: a thin home-made fiberglass foil that is forced in place while the epoxy cures; it is easier with constant thickness airfoils while it took me a little more effort with the rudder...





Next I had to re-open the gudgeon slots into the TE...



... and I finally epoxied the guds in place checking for straightness of the hinge-line itself!



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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 12/14/2007 4:33 PM   
g_boxwood



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Status: offline 		I thought I could give the HS-85MG a little help by installing functional trim tabs (in this case, boost tabs): I placed them in some of my models (sport) and they prooved really effective.

I took as a guide an informative article in Model Airplane News, December 1993 if I recall correctly: if someone is interested just let me know and I'll gather some more infos.

Anyway, everything started by attacking the rudder and cutting the tabs off:



Next I added a 4mm LE block to the tabs and worked a little more on the upper tab: the upper tab extends past the rudder TE so it needs a TE extension. The following pic shows what I did (top to bottom):

1. I took the homemade fiberglass foil and glued it to one side with medium CA
2. I added some balsa sheet of appropriate thickness
3. I sanded it to shape
4. I filled everything



Once satisfied with it I sanded the LEs to their round shape and I checked the tabs over the plans:





They look both scale and functional!

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 12/14/2007 6:04 PM   
rubnat


 

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Status: offline 		hello Giacomo
as always it's a verry good job
Phil

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 12/15/2007 4:08 AM   
Kmot



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quote:

ORIGINAL: g_boxwood


I took some pictures of my ship-wreck-workshop as it was today



Well now, I see you are indeed human after all!!

Have a Merry Christmas Giacomo, and a great New Year!

Ciao

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 12/24/2007 11:46 AM   
g_boxwood



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Status: offline 		Thank you all for having supported this thread for 2 years now and nearly 30,000 hits!!!

I wish you all the best for the upcoming 2008 and may all of your dreams and projects come true!

Thank you all again!

Giacomo

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/5/2008 2:27 AM   
teresos



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Happy new Year to all of you guys.
Giacomo , your work is magnificent .

I finally got then Nose Gear done ...
with :
Sreering (with ball-rings)
Shock-absorbing
Retract mechanism......and it's working great.

Shots 1 to 3 was my first attempt with cardboart ,
shot 4 is the first drawing with pencil ,
shot 5-6 are the final drawings and dimensions finished with Corel ( I can't .....CAD. )

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/5/2008 2:49 AM   
teresos



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oooooopsss.....

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/5/2008 2:54 AM   
teresos



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Here are some shots from the Gear :

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/5/2008 3:18 AM   
teresos



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Some shots during the process :

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/5/2008 3:28 AM   
teresos



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Status: offline 		some more..

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/5/2008 3:45 AM   
teresos



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I can mail the drawings to everyone...( crazy like me ) ....

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/5/2008 4:18 AM   
Kmot



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Status: online 		teresos: Bravo!! Magnificent!!

I love how you did this on a manual machine.

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/5/2008 9:11 AM   
g_boxwood



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Status: offline 		Great George! I want one! Machine one for me!

Really great work, I can CAD your drawings if you wish.

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/5/2008 11:35 AM   
Strykaas



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Status: offline 		Thats IS scratch building. Love it

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/9/2008 10:02 PM   
alfa_bravo


 

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Status: offline 		to place photography of the construction of the wings.

greetings thank you


I'm sorry for my English that is very bad

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/12/2008 8:34 AM   
g_boxwood



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Status: offline 		You could check some earlier pages: there are pictures of a finished wing by teresos (George) and there are 3D renderings of my upcoming wing!

For more detailed pics you should ask teresos as he is the only one who has already built one.

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/12/2008 5:06 PM   
coincoin


 

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Status: offline 		Excellent idea, what kind of metal- tools are using to make it ?

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/13/2008 2:49 AM   
teresos



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ORIGINAL: coincoin

Excellent idea, what kind of metal- tools are using to make it ?


Welcome on board coincoin...

Einhell Metal Lathe MTB 3000 (classic Chinese 7x12 mini lathe )
Proxxon Micro Mill Mf 70
Einhell Pillar drill
Dremel moto tool
+
lot of hand tools

http://www.einhell.com/englisch/englisch.aspx?file=car
http://www.proxxon.com/
http://www.dremel.com/en-US/tools/

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/18/2008 1:47 PM   
teresos



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Status: offline 		Giacomo ,
have you done anything about the nose door hinges. I'm trying to figure how to deal with.
Have you got any ideas?

George

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/18/2008 2:14 PM   
alfa_bravo


 

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Status: offline 		thank you I already saw them but they do not say to me as it was the construction

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/18/2008 3:02 PM   
g_boxwood



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quote:

ORIGINAL: teresos

Giacomo ,
have you done anything about the nose door hinges. I'm trying to figure how to deal with.
Have you got any ideas?

George

No, especially now that I'm reconsidering my nose unit beacuse of your great work.

Anyway, it shouldn't be a problem, just use the offset type of hinges that are common with jet models. And I suggest you build thick doors not fiberglass-thin ones: the thicker they are the better they seal.





Please bear in mind that the nose well doors don't need to be water-tight EVEN in case of amphibious operation: the wheel well must be water-tight but not the doors. They should not allow too much water in...

The doors should deflect the fluid away from the bulkhead: if the fluid itself hits the bulkhead it will slow the plane down and it will prevent it from getting on step and leave the water.

I hope I got myself explained...

The only thing I did was a mold of the hull around the well opening:







As you see from the last pic my well is longer to fit the commercial retract unit: if I fit your gear I will shorten it back to its original length!

< Message edited by g_boxwood -- 1/18/2008 3:07 PM >

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/18/2008 10:16 PM   
teresos



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Anyway, it shouldn't be a problem, just use the offset type of hinges that are common with jet models. And I suggest you build thick doors not fiberglass-thin ones: the thicker they are the better they seal.

[/quote]

Yes I know , that's why I build them from lite-ply.
You are right about the commercial hinges.I have something in mind, but still it need's
work.(... Yes ,a try $ fit proccess again.... ......) .I let you know when I'm finished, so
you will CAD for me , again!!!!!

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/19/2008 8:39 AM   
g_boxwood



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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/27/2008 2:57 PM   
g_boxwood



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Status: offline 		Tip-Float Molding - Making the Parts

Hello everyone, I took a break from studying to mold my first halves and see how they turned out...

First let me say that making the parts involves a fraction of the time and effort we spent for making the molds themselves BUT you need to exercise care while handling the molds to avoid damaging them during any of the procedures involved.

0. Getting the molds ready

It happened that the PVA got stuck to the molds instead of the plugs: do not worry, PVA is easily removed with fresh water and some soap (dish-washing is fine). Wash and clean the molds throughly under the tap; a smooth sponge may help removing all the PVA from corners and sharper features.

I then mounted the molds onto some MDF framing: I covered the frame with some heat-shrinking covering material so the resin won't get stuck to it (fast and easy).

1. Waxing the Molds

I wanted to avoid what happened to the plugs so I invested a lot of time in waxing the molds properly. I understood 2 important issues:

1. an epoxy-resin mold is a more chemically stable material on its own than a painted plug: its surfaces are harder and "glossier" than "the glossiest" of one-part paints!

2. polishing is not necessary BUT if you intend to polish the molds use a silicon-free polishing compound or it will be hard the get the wax to wet the molds properly.

Obviously I did use a silicon-based polishing compound and I ended up fighting with the wax again... but at least I now know why!!!

I used a waxing compoud called 'Priming Wax': they claim it features superior 'wetting' properties and that it helps the PVA to spread in a more uniform layer, plus it doesn't need any polishing (=buffing to a good shine) between coats.

It is not the best wax available but it is suggested for beginners!

SO, I gave 5 coats of Priming Wax @ 24 hrs. intervals + 2 coats of PVA @ 24 hrs. intervals. I then let the PVA dry for another 24 hrs. before molding.

Picture shows the molds ready:



2. Homemade Gel-Coat Layer = 1st resin batch

I started with a ketchup-thick mixture of (resin+hardener + grey colour paste + microballoons) and I painted it onto the mold surfaces keeping the layer thin; please remember:

1. this layer fills the cloth
2. this layer should stay onto vertical surfaces in a thin layer (the thicker the more mass the more difficult to prevent it from running down on its own weight)
3. this layer should avoid trapping air bubbles <=> its thickness should be less than the radius of the bubbles themselves
4. color selection between molds and layer should enhance the contrast so that you know where you painted it and where you didn't (and it should help you determine its thickness at a glance)



Now thicken the mixture with more balloons and smooth all the tight-radius corners so that the cloth will conform to them more easily:





Now let this layer gelify to a state where it will be 'tacky' (if you press a finger into it NO resin should remain onto your finger): it usually takes 45 minutes but it depends strongly on many parameters so check every 15 minutes: it took about 2 hours in my case.

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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 1/27/2008 3:10 PM   
g_boxwood



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Status: offline 		3. Cloth Lay-Up = 2nd Resin Batch

I chose to lay 4 layers of cloth: the first 2 should be light so they conform to the mold while the other 2 could be heavier BUT open-weave (not tight).

Paint the mold with a liberal amount of resin and then start working each cloth layer in place so that no bubbles get trapped in!



work each layer at a time, remove all the bubbles and wrinkles from it before adding the next one. Easier done than said...

Once all the layers are in place remove the excess resin and let the epoxy cure overnight:



4. De-molding

I was surprised by how easily I got the parts away from the molds: I used some PP wedges and I worked them around the perimeter of the parts...



... until they popped out on their own:





I then trimmed them roughly... and I got back studying satisfied with the results!



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