RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (Full Version)

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g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/15/2006 10:48:31 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: grinder-RCU

10" wheels on the nose gear, 16" on the mains.


Thanks grinder for the tech drawing and the specs.

@ 1:12.833 they should be around 0.75" nose and 1.25" mains?!

It seems something's wrong... they're too small. Maybe I misunderstood the info you gave.



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/15/2006 10:52:57 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: morino

now i have watched my blue prints they are from steve gray and if that plane is steve gray design i am builiding it it doesnt look totaly autenthic but is much simple to make dan bernards i think.

Bernard's plans are not complicated, they're well thought-out and lead to a much more scale structure.

I like them very much. Some mods here and there, very few errors... nothing to worry about in the end.



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/15/2006 11:03:13 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: John Hawkins

There is a video of a friend's CL-215 on my page top left here. Not sure of the plan or details but it uses OS52s for power.

Nice video John! The dual 52s sound incredibly realistic to me!

And it confirmed waterline on this model is very high. Also wing-tip dragging may be a concern.



John Hawkins -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/15/2006 11:58:37 AM)

I wondered about the wheel size too but maybe we are confusing wheel and tire sizes. My truck has 15" wheels but the tires are much bigger. They are P235 x.75 which I think means 235mm depth times 75% of that in width so we would have to add two times 235 or 470mm to the 15" wheel diameter = 470/25.4 = 18.5" + 15" = 33.5" I must measure to confirm but it sounds about right. So then for the CL215 one would need to know the tire size as well as the wheel size. Make sense?


-----------------------

Later: The tire is actually 27" so maybe it is 235 wide and 75% of that high. That would work out to about 29" diameter but the tire fits inside the wheel an inch or so which would work out right. In any event confusion about wheel size and tire size probably accounts for the apparent smallness of the scale wheels.



grinder-RCU -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/16/2006 5:58:58 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: g_boxwood

quote:

ORIGINAL: grinder-RCU

10" wheels on the nose gear, 16" on the mains.


Thanks grinder for the tech drawing and the specs.

@ 1:12.833 they should be around 0.75" nose and 1.25" mains?!

It seems something's wrong... they're too small. Maybe I misunderstood the info you gave.


Now you got me thinking? .....let me email an CL-415 mechanic and i'll get back to you.



grinder-RCU -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/16/2006 6:07:57 AM)

On my plans for my 160"ws CL-415 the main wheels are 7". I sent the email hopefully i'll hear back soon.

Grinder.



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/16/2006 8:23:34 AM)

Thank you guys! I couldn't find any infos on my own. BF Goodrich lists all the airplanes they manufacture tire for but not even a spec...

About Bernard's plans:

- main wheels are 80mm and I chose 3-1/4" Robart 115
- nose wheels are 55mm and I chose 2" Robart 110

After I measured the wheels on my 1/72nd scale model I built in the past it seemed that
- main wheel dia is ok while
- nose dia is larger which is fine if you'll operate the model from a grass runway as I'll do.

I'm looking forward to get the original dims anyway. Thank you grinder.

BTW: what 160" size plans do you own???



grinder-RCU -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/16/2006 4:12:40 PM)


quote:


BTW: what 160" size plans do you own???


I got my plans from www.mraerodesign.com he has a 80"version and i asked him to blow up the plans 100% to 160"ws and he said no problem. He sent me 90' ( feet ) of rolled plans.

Grinder.



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/19/2006 2:33:00 PM)

I'm back with little work done. When I get back from holidays it usually takes me some time to switch back to model-airplane-building mode. Dunno why...

I always start again with some easy and not-so-complicated matters.

1) I checked nose gear steering in the mock-up and it worked fine. I won't place the servo in the well, I'll use a bell-crank instead for a few reasons:

- it lets me operate both the nose gear and the water rudder through the same servo; the servo in the ample fuselage connects to the two bellcranks via pull-pull cables;
- a bell crank axle is easier to water-proof than a servo IN CASE of amphibious operation of this model.



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/19/2006 2:39:18 PM)

2) You already discovered I'm fond of sanding blocks [:)] ... but to ensure the most uniform sanding of the hull possible I had to custom-make one for the purpose; it was then a breeze to sand the hull...

Notice in the red circle that I sanded the stringer to follow the bulkheads; after sheeting the hull I'll glue the splash rails like those the full-scale vehicle features.



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/19/2006 2:41:55 PM)

3) I thought I needed a cradle before or later: I had to make one!



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/20/2006 8:33:37 AM)

4) I had to correct a mishap: for reasons I don't know, the new bulkhead turned out to be lower than the others and that forced me to bridge the gap; it was easily done with some scrap balsa sanded down to the correct height.



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/20/2006 8:38:14 AM)

5) After sheeting the tail section I felt the keel element is too thin (3mm or 0.125" ) to properly aid in positioning and keeping the sheeting itself in place. Before having the same problem with the hull, I decided to ad some 1/4" square stick next to both sides of the keel. The little blocks were then sanded to shape.



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/21/2006 4:49:57 PM)

One thing I forgot to mention is that I didn't install the stringers on the hull because I want those stringers to blend into the nose section; I'll deal with the nose section as soon as I finish nose gear installation (hope to do so tomorrow). Blending the stringers (and then the sheeting) into the nose section gives me the opportunity to better distribuite stresses over the two sections.

Today I finished the tail by installing 5 balsa stringers.

- the 3 top stringers are not mentioned on the plans but I felt they could be of help;

- the 2 lateral stringers can be found on the plans and they raise as they approach the tail (see pic).

I cut the notches after the formers were installed to insure straightness.

BTW, you see I'm beginning to capitalize my expensive cradle [:D][:D][:D] !



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/23/2006 5:32:45 PM)

Ok, I'm late!

Integrating the gear into the original structure gave me some thinking and I'm still not sure enough of what I came up with. Let me know what you think, it will help for the next times.

Now. I wanted the gear loads to be absorbed by the well sides and NOT by the well floor (ehm... ceiling or whatever you want to call it) or the front bulkhead/former (too weak).

This is mainly because

- the sides eith the integrated supports were the -original- elements that supported the -original- gear
- the sides are really though once doubled and they extend into the hull section, spreading the loads.

So I had to figure out a box or something the gear is bolted to that integrates into the original supports (see first pic) at the location and height determined by the mick-up; results are in the picture.



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/23/2006 5:40:17 PM)

I epoxied the box structure in place and I added 3 #2x9/16" screws per side to aid in kepping things joined.



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/23/2006 5:50:12 PM)

Please note that the box structure doesn't contact the well floor: it is 4mm above.

Last set of pics showing fuse "upside-down" on its cradle with the gear hanging down and retracting.

Once retracted, you can see that all the room I had to find for it to fit is entirely eaten up.

I have a question regarding retract operation. Eurokit retracts are really nice; they features some kind of restrictor valves to "control" retraction/extraction speed. If you close the restrictor with a large cylinder retract it really slows it down but if you do so with a smaller cylinder retract (like this one) the gear doesn't move and the operating valve starts to leak. Does anybody know why?

Any feedback about the installation is welcome!



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/25/2006 3:04:45 PM)

A question for Bernard: what are the cockpit sides made of? Balsa or lite-ply? Always 3mm thick I guess...

[img]http://www.geocities.com/gb_teknik/CL-215/COQUE18.jpg[/img]

Thank you!



bernard.dumas -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (8/26/2006 7:13:16 AM)


A question for Bernard: what are the cockpit sides made of? Balsa or lite-ply? Always 3mm thick I guess...

It's made of 3 mm balsa



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (9/2/2006 9:50:51 AM)

Time for an update!

Part 4 - LA COQUE SUITE

Basically it is the whole framing of the nose section. This model has lots of formers since it is so scale-like-built. Around 45 all in all: the nose section requires 20 of them to achieve its shape.

I always thanked the CL-215 for being such a square-fused-bird but man, the nose section alone is a compound-curved-nightmare [>:] ! It takes a deal of time... as usual.

I started with cutting the formers (from C19 to C1). I preferred to build the formers rather than cutting them in one piece for a few reasons:
- it saved a lot of balsa: almost all the elements are 1/2" wide so cutting strips and shaping them is quick enough;
- every element can be cut aligned with its grain for higher strength (especially when sanding... and you'll have a lot to sand...).

Since the formers will undergo heavy sanding I chose hard balsa. Soft balsa would have broken 100 times...

I cut and assembled the formers a little oversized so I could sand them down to final shape. Don't be fooled: curves towards the nose can become rather tight!!!

One last thing I added are notches for stringers which aren't featured on the plans; before installing the formers remember to cut the notches on the lite-ply bulkhead C11 or you won't be able to do it so easily later on.



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (9/2/2006 9:54:35 AM)

Once all the formers have been installed I suggest to install the 3mm internal balsa sides between C19 and C12: it helps strengthening them BEFORE attempting to sand them down.

Install the sides AFTER you sanded the edges of the formers to the required angle: fit must be perfect!



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (9/2/2006 10:04:02 AM)

Now the sides can be sanded down with a sanding surface that is large enough to cover all the sides at once.

Start by sanding the sides following the cockpit floor contour.

Then re-draw the formers curved sections to aid in sanding them with the upper and lower keel as a guide.

Note that sanding the hull requires to install a keel element across the gear well to guide the sanding: the element will also support the sheeting and will be removed as the well doors have been molded.



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (9/2/2006 10:08:32 AM)

Check the notches for alignment and enlarge/deepen them as required.

Install 5x5mm SOFT-balsa stringers: soak them in ammonia to get them bent. Curves can get pretty hard to follow toward the nose and are compound. What looks straight in a view is curved in another. The lowest stringers are curved in every view [:@] ...



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (9/2/2006 10:14:29 AM)

Following pics show the results: I couldn't bend the strings ahead of C3... broke several of them even after I let them soaked in ammonia for ages...



g_boxwood -> RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 (9/4/2006 8:57:22 PM)

I finalized the hull by installing the last 4 stringers** and by bridging the gearwell with some scrap stick to support the sheeting.

**I didn't blend those stringers into the nose section (as I originally stated) due to the very high -added complexity over gained benefit- ratio: it isn't really necessary. The optional stringers I added to the nose section are a nice extra touch but probably not worth the time spent... these plans are well thought-out, mods turned out to be almost useless...

I also added soft balsa sticks to both sides of the keel as I did earlier to better support the sheets where they butt up against each other.

I sealed the nose well portion that protrudes into the cabin fllor and then added the roof formers and stringers just behind the cockpit.

Basically the fuse is done, I'll now sheet the hull, the nose and the sides ahead of the step. I'll sheet the tail sides later on, I must build the fin/rudder first.



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