I attached a sample of the plans I'm developing... I still need to fix some details here and there and all I can say is that it can be (= indeed is) a time-comsuming process. A lot of thinking is involved as you have to figure out everything 2D without being able to put it together 3D under your own eyes and without being able to tell from the facts if it is the best solution possible. Needless to say some bugs/improvements will be discovered as the building begins... I know it.
Anyway, the stab and elevator are really simple, straight symmetric surfaces, a nice starting point although I began the re-drawing process from the fin and rudder (swept and tapered) back to the end of December.
I included all the patterns and their layout on stock sheets (sorry, 4" x 40" European) to provide the required bill of materials. I hate plans w/o patterns that require you to make a lot of copies just to get ready to cut some wood...
hello, you have photos of the wings, they are possible to be seen if you can since I am constructing the airplane and I am guiding myself by your photos, hopefully you can help Marco
I am guiding by your pictures and the URL that you gave me, I just am beginning to cut to the wood raft, I am in zero but with many desire to make this airplane, once it does it will remove photos to him so that they see it hopefully your you continue helping
Here I am! back to some work after one of the most boring and useless periods of my life... I won't be able to practice any sport 'till mid April but I can resume hand-works like this!
OK. Still need to get the stab and rudder plans finished and printed.
In the meantime I'm making the mold for the nose gear doors:
- covered the hull with heat-shrink covering [pic 1] - laid some layers of f/g cloth (different weights) [pic 2] - removed the mold and trimmed it roughly [pics 3 & 4].
The monokote-parting trick is excellent: the finish of the mold is good enough without using of any additional parting compounds. Moreover it can be applied directly to balsa surfaces allowing you to make molds at an early finishing stage.
Since it was the first time I tried it I was just a bit worried about ruining the balsa sheeting while peeling the covering off: no problem at all, just warm it and be kind! Of course, you need to lightly sand the sheeting again...
Since the mold surface is quite big somekind of stiffening is highly reccomended: in my case stiffening comes from a wooden framework.
It is really important that the framework doesn't force the mold out of its shape (really easy as it is both thin and large): to avoid this
- glue every element of the frame with the mold positioned onto the hull where it belongs
- make sure each element is not forced hard against the mold; it only needs to contact it here and there 'cause joint strength will come from big fillets.
Pictures show:
- first 2 elements of the framework in place with epoxy and microballoons fillets - straight trimming of the mold to accept straight framework sides - sides in position with mold back onto the hull; sides are kept in position by masking tape; - fillets on the inside.
I am Marco from chile, your send me the planes that you have in 3d of the wings traceras to my mail mviqq31@gmail.com, try to do them as the original plane but I me do not turn out to be I do not still have aligned, you can help with it, to the wait of your response
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RE: Bernard Dumas' Canadair CL-215 - 
