Posts: 200
Joined: 12/19/2006 From: Mcallen,
TX, USA Status: offline
lock the diff with hot glue gun or super glue. i got all the upgrade except lowering kit mitsubishi evo 8. im a pro at drifting xmods i can drift perfect circles like tokyo drift .
Posts: 129
Joined: 6/9/2006 From: Ballwin, MO, USA Status: offline
you just got 4wd? i got all my upgrades before buying the rc car it saved me some hassle i rewound my motor so it would go faster than the ratshack's stage 2 motor, and it worked
Posts: 129
Joined: 6/9/2006 From: Ballwin, MO, USA Status: offline
you have to take the motor apart. and FireStriker, it doesn't matter how many hours is on it.
all that matters is the # of winds (please keep it above 35t or you'll blow your stock FET's) and the thickness of the wire.
here's a tut i found on xmodsource.com (Thanks RedSXmodder!):
I suggest that you do this to a stage 1-2 motor for practice. Or an old motor that you have no use for for practice.
Basically, when you rewind a motor, you make less or more windings of a thicker grade of wire. when you do this it creates higher RPM'S, or more torque. MAKE SURE TO COUNT YOUR WINDS
[image][/image] Here we go 1. So first, you have to dissassemble the motor. You usually start with the 2 metal tabs on both sides of the motor. Oh yeah, if the motor you are performing this on has a pinion, remove the pinion so you can take the can off.
2.After you have accsessed the guts(inside of the motor), You will come across the armature which is the rotating arm inside the motor. It has 3 arms in which wire is wrapped. I believe these are called poles
3.Each wire is soldered to a tab an the commutator. The commutator is at the end of the armature. There are 3 small tabs in which a wire is soldered or crimped onto, which is then wrapped around the poles or arms on the armature.
4.Desolder the wires on the commutator and unwrap the windings.
5.After that take your new wire of desired thickness(prefferably thicker than the stock wire) and solder (or crimp) the begining onto one of the comutator tabs. Be sure to scratch away some of the enamel coating.
6. Begin wrapping the wire in a pattern around the poles. Make sure that you have the same # of windings on each of the poles.
7.When your done with the first pole, move onto the second pole. Repeat for the third pole. Again, make sure to cound your winds.
8.After you get the winding done solder everything back into place. If you have been thinking about any other engine modification, now is the time to start working on that. Such as the neodymium(spelling?) magnets mod, or carbon brushes.
9.Lastly, put the armature back into the can, make sure the brushes fit comfortably over the commutator, and carefully insert the endbell.
More winds=more torque, and less RPM Less winds= more RPM, and less torque
here are the images that go with it
< Message edited by 2WDrifter -- 5/2/2007 10:58:03 PM >
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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Drifting >> RE: xmods drifting 
RE: xmods drifting - 
it saved me some hassle i rewound my motor so it would go faster than the ratshack's stage 2 motor, and it worked
