WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it.

WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it.
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WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 6/21/2006 11:42:15 AM

xlr8rr

Posts: 32
Joined: 5/9/2006
From: , AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

OK...just a couple of tips that got me from amateurish hops to 5 min eye level hover inside a small workshop in one day
Firstly it makes sense to me to have the controller setup like this.......
Roll is leftstick..........left and right
Pitch is leftstick.........up and down
YAW is RIGHTSTICK LEFT AND RIGHT
Throttle is right stick...up and down
A helicopter is like a marble on a glass plate so a setup like this enables the aviator to control that glass plate with one stick, ie the swash plate.
I also setup my gliders this way. ie alerons/elevator is on left stick (roll and pitch) and rudder on the right stick (yaw)
To do this on the dragonfly I rearanged the mechanics in the transmitter by swapping the wires connected to the pots.
Some reversing of the pin switches may be necesary.
Righto, next I put reflective tape on the tips of the main rotorblades, one 10mm in and other one about 30mm. This helps to see the spinning disc and what its doing.
Next instead of the recomended 5deg angle of attack try about 10deg......I did this and it was almost hands off hovering.
I found that the standard setting for the servo throws amplified the movement to the swash plate to much. Move the Z rod to the 3rd hole from the end of the servo arm and reset trim centers if needed. This gets rid of a lot of overcorrecting that I found myself doing. Best of all that annoying servo twitching although still there doesnt effect the copters flight as much.

After doing these simple things I was totally amazed at the stability and ease of control. 5 battery packs later and I have such controll I can hover in a cluttered 4 by 4 meter workshop in steady and controlled hover.....
See what U think

< Message edited by xlr8rr -- 6/27/2006 12:50:59 AM >

Post #: 1

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 6/21/2006 4:27:06 PM

neweheliflyer

Posts: 765
Joined: 1/28/2005
From: , LA, USA
Status: offline

When you are flying the electric rc helicopter, read this reference too - very helpful tips

(in reply to xlr8rr)

Post #: 2

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 6/21/2006 6:07:26 PM

ScratchBuild

Posts: 169
Joined: 4/24/2003
From: WierdaparkGauteng, SOUTH AFRICA
Status: offline

Hi there xlrr8r,

I am really envious of you, because I am struggling for months now and still no joy

Thanks for the advice.

Regards

Nic

(in reply to xlr8rr)

Post #: 3

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 6/22/2006 7:00:17 AM

xlr8rr

Posts: 32
Joined: 5/9/2006
From: , AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

scratchbuild....
did you try as I suggested and setup the collective so it is operated by one tx stick......I couldnt fly otherwise.
I finally burned out a walkera servo today and replaced it with a cheapie out of a glider......it works great and now there is no annoying servo twitching.

(in reply to ScratchBuild)

Post #: 4

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 6/26/2006 5:08:12 AM

xlr8rr

Posts: 32
Joined: 5/9/2006
From: , AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

Ok just found out that spraying silicone on the rotor head and associated linkages help the helli run a lot smoother and self ballances itself very quickly. The ability to hover in one spot is also enhanced as is the flight time on one 900mah seven cell nimh up from 10min to 13min on one charge. I wouldnt reccomend the use of oils or crc type sprays as it attracts dirt particles and and accelerates premature wear. For some reason silicone doesnt have this effect.

(in reply to xlr8rr)

Post #: 5

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 6/26/2006 9:05:06 AM

visionary

Posts: 19
Joined: 6/7/2006
From: , NY, USA
Status: offline

can u explain what u mean by 5 deg and 10 deg angle of attacks and how to adjust them ? thanx mate

(in reply to xlr8rr)

Post #: 6

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 6/26/2006 10:33:09 AM

xlr8rr

Posts: 32
Joined: 5/9/2006
From: , AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

The angle of attack I am refering to is in regard to the amount of angle from horrizontal that is on the little flight paddles connected to the flight bar. ailerons is really what they are.....ie the leading edge is higher than the trailing edge on the paddles, try about 10 deg from horizontal, I find it to be much mor stable this way

(in reply to visionary)

Post #: 7

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 6/26/2006 10:43:12 AM

ScratchBuild

Posts: 169
Joined: 4/24/2003
From: WierdaparkGauteng, SOUTH AFRICA
Status: offline

Yes,

My radio is set up as you said. As far as I can understand, it was mode2 you are describing and my Radio is in that mode. I think I know what the problem is, I am oversteering and then the heli does not respond as I want it to. I must relax and do the small movement thing and also change the links on my servo horns as you suggested.

Regards

Nic

(in reply to xlr8rr)

Post #: 8

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 6/26/2006 12:01:00 PM

chris6414

Posts: 624
Joined: 12/23/2004
From: Warminster , PA, USA
Status: offline

Be careful with setting the paddles. All other helos use 0 degrees on the paddles. If you set them positive you induce drag which heats up the motors and lessens flight time. It also lowers head speed which in itself adds stability from the gyroscopic effect. If you can't get it to fly stable with the paddles at 0 degrees, your adding positive is only masking the real problem which I think is with your main blades. If they are not tracking right you can get a wobble or a helo that just doesn't seem to trim right. A simple twist fixes any tracking issues which should be easy with the tape you have added. I would also lose the other stock servo as they are not reliable. My bird is set-up as follows:

11.1 1300 MAH LiPo
Blue Bird Pico receiver
Dionysis Design Mixer
GWS PG-03 Gyro
GWS ESCs 300(tail)/480 (Main)
E-Flite S-75 servos
Clipped Mains (chord wise)
Stock motors
Futaba Transmitter

She flies great, Still difficult, but she is a blast indoors. Outside is OK as long as it isn't breezy. (Above Calm is hard for me)

(in reply to ScratchBuild)

Post #: 9

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 6/27/2006 12:03:35 AM

xlr8rr

Posts: 32
Joined: 5/9/2006
From: , AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

I did indeed change the other servo after realising how $%^&ed the standard servos were. Result is much steadier flight and zero servo chatter.
I have problems with steady flight outside. I think it is because my mind doesnt see walls around the chopper when I am outside and makes my brain have to work harder because it doesnt have the reference points all around as in indoor flight. I also dont have the walls to crash into so I find myself wandering a lot when outside. Wind gusts are not helping.

(in reply to chris6414)

Post #: 10

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 6/29/2006 12:33:03 AM

xlr8rr

Posts: 32
Joined: 5/9/2006
From: , AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

I just had my walkera 60 arrive. It is mode 1 so I have to modify the controller to get it the way I like it....which is as u say mode two but with the throttle and rudder on the right side. I have no idea how anyone can fly in mode one with the cyclic control being split into the two tx sticks. Any its off to surgery for the tx....I just need to change the pots around inside the tx.......I hope.

(in reply to xlr8rr)

Post #: 11

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 6/29/2006 7:19:33 PM

ScratchBuild

Posts: 169
Joined: 4/24/2003
From: WierdaparkGauteng, SOUTH AFRICA
Status: offline

Hi xlr8rr,

Why changing the pots if you can just change the plugs around? If the wires is too short for that you just have to lengthen it a bit

(in reply to xlr8rr)

Post #: 12

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 7/6/2006 2:15:02 AM

xlr8rr

Posts: 32
Joined: 5/9/2006
From: , AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

Changing the plugs around wont work as the tail rotor is a speed control output and the swash is servo output. Pots need to be moved to get the rudder control on to the throtle stick, a mechanical mod rather than a electronic mod

(in reply to ScratchBuild)

Post #: 13

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 7/6/2006 11:50:30 AM

ScratchBuild

Posts: 169
Joined: 4/24/2003
From: WierdaparkGauteng, SOUTH AFRICA
Status: offline

Hi xlr8rr,

I meant the wires inside the TX without swopping the actual sticks around just swopping the wires to the pc board

Regards

Nic

(in reply to xlr8rr)

Post #: 14

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 7/10/2006 8:29:54 AM

AusHeliGuy

Posts: 13
Joined: 6/19/2006
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

ok ok im such a noobie but whats a "Z" Rod?? wheres that? are you saying move both servo arms up to the third hole?

(in reply to ScratchBuild)

Post #: 15

RE: WOW..It really does fly!!!! df4 How I did it. - 7/10/2006 1:02:38 PM

chris6414

Posts: 624
Joined: 12/23/2004
From: Warminster , PA, USA
Status: offline

The "Z" Rod desribes the control rod that goes from the swash plate to the servo. I just unclip at the swashplate(carefully) and move the rod to another hole on the servo. I like mine all the way out though. Was flying mine in a breeze yesterday and my tail ESC has taken a crap on me. It likes to cut out all by itself in flight and has an intermittant arming problem. I will be replacing with a GWS ISC-50. A little lighter and better suited for that little tail motor.

I would recommend to anyone to use a 2-56 aluminum control rod for your stab bar( the one with the paddles). You will wack your blades more than once and it will bend back to shape easily. I have bent mine 90 degrees and it still bent back staright and flew within minutes. Just be careful tightening the set screws. I put mine a little past snug as you will strip the set screw housing if you tighten them too much(plastic housing). You don't want them tight anyway when you hit them. You want them to move. Then you just grab them and twist them back into alignment with the swashplate and your airborne again. I made mine a little longer than stock for crisp cyclic control. Shorter is better suited for beginners but I like it a little more responsive for getting out of trouble in a hurry. Mine, with a stock set-up, always seemed to steer like a blimp rather than a helo. I would move the sticks and there always seemed to be a delay in the movement of the helo.

Chris

quote:

ORIGINAL: AusHeliGuy

ok ok im such a noobie but whats a "Z" Rod?? wheres that? are you saying move both servo arms up to the th