RE: Thunder tiger ST-1  
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RE: ... - 5/6/2008 1:02:40 PM   
asjak


 

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Joined: 8/17/2007
From: Frederiksberg C, DENMARK
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I had the same problem with clutch bell bearings. I replaced the flywheel with a new one (OFNA) and have now run 20 fuel thanks without problems.

(in reply to asjak)
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RE: ... - 5/6/2008 1:28:15 PM   
spikeman


 

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Joined: 7/23/2007
From: monroe, MI, USA
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I haven't been on here for awhile because I've been to busy fixing my trucks spectrum remote. I bought the remote about a couple of months ago and I've only used it about 10 times and now it keeps losing connection with the reciever. On the bright side I just got a duratrax vendetta ST to run in the winter and when the ST-1 is down. As soon as I get the spectrum system figured out I want to paint a body for the mini that looks just like the ST-1 and since they both have the same looking rims tires and wing they should look just like each other.

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RE: ... - 5/6/2008 2:13:28 PM   
dirthead


 

Posts: 517
Joined: 9/25/2006
From: Grand Falls, NB, CANADA
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Open your reciever, and place a piece of white eraser between the 2 circuit boards, this should keep the 2 boards from working loose, it worked for me.

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RE: ... - 5/6/2008 8:27:03 PM   
ericem



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Joined: 1/10/2006
From: Maple, ON, CANADA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: outkastxjoe

Anyone here have problems with constantly busting the clutch bell bearings? My mesh is spot on and it's all lined up correctly. Every run the bearing just explodes! I've noticed that the chassis flexes right in the middle causing the spur gear and clutch bell to briefly loose alignment and rub when landing jumps. Anyone notice this issue? All braces are in tact and tight. Advice please...


Really?? Make sure your braces are tight. That area has a Z brace right there and I do not notice ANY flex in the spur and bell area. Are you leaving 1-2mm of play in the clutch bell atleast? When you go for a run how hot does the clutch get if it burns instant then it is slipping way to much and causing it to overheat and kill the bearings. Also what gearings and shoes? Make sure the clutch bell is 100% ungreased same goes for the shoes.

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RE: ... - 5/6/2008 8:29:10 PM   
ericem



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From: Maple, ON, CANADA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: spikeman

I haven't been on here for awhile because I've been to busy fixing my trucks spectrum remote. I bought the remote about a couple of months ago and I've only used it about 10 times and now it keeps losing connection with the reciever. On the bright side I just got a duratrax vendetta ST to run in the winter and when the ST-1 is down. As soon as I get the spectrum system figured out I want to paint a body for the mini that looks just like the ST-1 and since they both have the same looking rims tires and wing they should look just like each other.


My JR XS3 radio took a dump. Need a new receiver. Back to the original radio and love it!! Feels alot more comfortable in my hand then the xs3 weird. Also seems more responsive. Probably going to get a cheap rs310 or rs300 receiver then sell it. I am perfectly fine with the AM radio.

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RE: ... - 5/6/2008 10:17:59 PM   
msg73


 

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Joined: 7/31/2004
From: , NJ, USA
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I've read that the factory needle settings in the manual may not be correct. Can someone please confirm what the correct factory needle settings are for the stock Thunder Tiger PRO-28BX-R engine? Thanks! My ST-1 is on it's way!!!!

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       Post #: 5031

RE: ... - 5/6/2008 10:26:18 PM   
ericem



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Someone said 3 out for the high speed and 3 1/2 for the low speed. Supposedly 6 1/2 for low is a typo IMO 3 1/2 isn't enough.

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RE: ... - 5/7/2008 1:23:35 AM   
msg73


 

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From: , NJ, USA
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If you look at the TT Pro 28 engine manual here: http://www.myrcbox.com/st1_manual_exploded_views.htm

In the "preparing for starting your engine" section, it states that you should pre-adjust needle valve (HSN) to 2.5-3 turns out and the mixture metering screw (LSN) to 1 turn out. In the break-in section, it states to set the needle valve to 3-3.5 turns out. What's the correct settings?

What were your needle settings for 1) break-in (assuming it'll be slightly rich) and 2) final tuned settings?

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       Post #: 5033

RE: ... - 5/7/2008 3:49:51 AM   
sharkus



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From: San Diego, CA, USA
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I think I'm done with break-in (I did the thermal cycle break-in method as best I could). I've run about 7-8 tanks total so far, and installed my roto-start...

However, I'm having a heck of a time getting this thing to idle after I roughly tune it. (This is my first nitro, so I'm tuning based upon reading/watching youtube videos.) I've adjust the high speed needle to give me nice blue smoke and smooth acceleration (going up and down the street). I then adjusted the low speed so that I can sit idle for a second or two, then accelerate smoothly from a stop (again with nice blue smoke). However, at this setting the idle is very high (i.e. clutch is engaged most of the time and I need to keep the brake on). If I richen the low speed needle accelerating is really bad (and the engine stalls in a few seconds). The idle screw doesn't seem to do anything.

I've sealed my engine, so I'm fairly sure there are no major air leaks (unless I did something wrong). I did notice some small air bubbles in the fuel line (not sure if this is normal or would have any effect).

For reference my needle settings are 2 HS, 4.5 LS. Do these seem reasonable for ~65 degree weather, <500 ft elevation?

Is this just a case of the engine not being fully broken in yet? Or is there something else I should be trying?

Thanks,
Sharkus

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RE: ... - 5/7/2008 4:04:40 AM   
ericem



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From: Maple, ON, CANADA
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I'm betting your throttle linkage is still pulling when you turn down idle. If you watch it closely you can see the linkage is still pulling the carb a bit. Simply lower the trim on the radio that says TH. Trim.

< Message edited by ericem -- 5/7/2008 4:05:10 AM >

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RE: ... - 5/8/2008 1:10:18 AM   
madmax22


 

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From: Greentown, PA, USA
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i really need to get a starting thing for the ST-1 i hate to see it sit here...

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RE: ... - 5/8/2008 4:28:07 AM