Posts: 91
Joined: 4/21/2005 From: , FL, USA Status: offline
I only have a Peak 26cc engine on mine, which is lighter than yours. You also used two "C" 4.8V packs Where did you mount the batteries. If I remember the cg on mine was 7-8 inchs from the leading edge near the fuse, it was aft the wing tube if I remember correctly. I sense from other posts if the cg is on the wing tube all will be well, do you agree? Thanks
quote:
ORIGINAL: gapple12
Mine was the same. I had the SPE 40cc gasser up front and two huge "C" size 4.8 batteries and it was still tail heavy according to the manual. The manual is wrong. When I first took off it flew dead straight and I was no were near the correct CG. I don’t have the correct CG setting but if you put everything up front, you’re real close. Hope this helps.
Posts: 51
Joined: 1/10/2007 From: Walker, LA, USA Status: offline
Scrafe and others:
I finally got mine in yesterday! ChinaKote, Yuk! But that is what I was expecting for what I paid. I think it would be a great plane to recover in ultracote (and check the glue joints while I have it open) but I am probably not that motivated. My cowl seems nicer quality than what I have read, fairly thick and doesn't seem too brittle. The cowling does have a crease in it from shipping, but I think I can fix it with a heat gun. I hope you don't mind, but I have a couple more questions for you.
I really like how you did your landing gear, I may have to try that trick on mine or use a different gear. How do you bend the music wire, and is it one piece or two?
Did you use pull-pull on your rudder? I do not see a servo in the tray under the canopy. I am also considering push-rods to move the elevator servos out of the tail for balance reasons, or maybe even use a MK style elevator bell crank: http://www.centralhobbies.com/control_linkage/Bellcrnk.html
I am thinking about the SPE 40cc gas engine, but I think it may be too much weight ( a full pound or so more than the 1.60FX) for the wing area. I have a CMP Giles 202 and the wings are almost the same size and I'm flying it with a Saito 1.80 and I don't know that it would tolerate another pound and keep it's good flying qualities. This would be an easy way out for the balance issues, but I also like good flying planes.
The other engine I am considering is a Moki 1.80-2.10. That would split the difference weight wise. I have never owned one though. I also don't think spacing the engine out an 1-1.5" would be too difficult with a GP mount, or even the heavier metal Dubro isolation mount to move some weight
I know I have asked a lot here, but since you have flown the plane, what are your opinions?
look the video of engine and motor in rc universe and look for brillelli GT and Yak , this is the setup I got with a 40CC you need the extra weith in this airplane on the nose, this plane is tail heavy, and use a pull pull system on the rudder, the landing gear is from a great planes ultimate 1.6 and is only 14.00 dollars from towerhobbies and fit perfect you only have to relocate one blind nut on the gear and is composite, even the plane look scale. I use a hitec 805 for rudder because I fly 3D. the plane fly 3D fine with this setup, and super powerfull for Imac.
Posts: 17
Joined: 12/15/2006 From: avon,
OH, USA Status: offline
Can anyone tell me where they are purchasing this Will Hobby Yak. I checked thier web site, and I do not see a way to purchase one. In fact, I do not see a price on thier site.
Im in the market for a gasser, and I was thinking of getting the volux revolution II with a 26cc SPE for under ($450 shipped), then I stumbled across this plane, and it looks pretty good, but i cant figure out where to purchase.
I got one new in box and other that I crash because the engine quit, the engine box, landing gear box, and cowl got damage, but wings, stabs and elevator and canopy ok, you will get both of them new in box and use, for 300.00 and I live in columbus ohio, so you can pick up. look the airplane if you like you take if you don't then is ok, I got too many planes, the first yak fly like a dream, but you have to got true the whole airplane with CA and Iron the covering, standar procedure with a ARF. Let me know if you whant it. I am in canal winchester 30 minutes from columbus international airport. 305 807 1215 Monty.
I will start building the second one, this one I will fit it with a crrcprogf45, the brillelli 40 was marginal for hovering and the airplane is a little be heavy, in the next one I will removed the covering in the fuselage, and in both side of the fuselage in the bottom of the turtle back I will do some lighting holes to light the plane. the plane is fully aerobatic, so i will not spect any problems,. My first yak yak was a lot's of fun. yes the chinacote is a piece of @#$^$#$%^& but I will deal with it later. If you go with a gas engine i fully recomend to go over the aircraft with epoxy no CA, do not use the hinges (CA hinges) or you will do repairs after 25 flight or lose the plane, use pin hinges with expoxy, and use dubro hardware, the one that comes with the plane is garbage. Do a pull pull for the rudder is the best set up, i use a hitec 805, and 2 swithches for the batteries of the receiver, pay attetion, one swith goes with a Y harnes to the 1) Battery, conected to the on off swith, from the switch to the Y harness , from the Y harness one for the servo and one for the receiver in channel 4. The second battery goes normal 2) Battery to switch on and off, swith to receiver in the battery slot. Now you will have a redundaci sistem, if one switch go bad the sencond battery will take control for you guiden system, there is no way you will lose the airplane because of battery or switch faliours. The servo hitec 805 come with a Y harness, the reason is because this servo draw a lot of amps, or that's what they say. have your CG in the wing tube or at leats one inch in front of the wing tube. you need a little heavy engine for this aircraft if you don't do any mod. And don't forget to use the ultimate great planes 1.6 landing gear. looks scale and is stronger. I use a prop 18X8 and it was perfect for my 3D flight/. Use estrong servos like 645 hitec metal gear do not use nylon or you will regret the saving. Model this big need metal servos.Now you may get this plane true ebay like I did. I pay 200 plus shipping. I got a good relationship with the seller this is my 8 plane I buy from him. Any question please let me know. remember this are only sugestion of my experience any one can differ from my opinion. thanks. to all. Monty.(Maxun) I can helped, I attach my current joy, my extra 330L at 16lbs is a mouster of plane 110 flight and counted more. And now the last recomendation, the tail wheel i recomend Sullivan P/N 861 do not use the piece of l%$^%$ that comes with the plane. monty.
< Message edited by maxun -- 9/18/2007 2:07:38 PM >
Posts: 388
Joined: 8/27/2006 From: Egg Harbor City,
NJ, USA Status: offline
Well I just bought a Yak ( same exact specs ) but am not sure if it is a WillHobby yak. Everything I can see, tells me it is a WillHobby, except for the color skeem. I have a OS Max 1.20AX I was going to put in it, but after reading the weight issues you guys are having, maybe I will put my Brillelli 36GT gasser in it. The only thing is the wife just bought me a Great Planes Super Stearman that the Brillelli was for. Well I guess the OS will just go in the Stearman. Here are some pictures of the Yak, see if you guys can tell me if it is a WillHobby one. WillHobby Yak calls for a 1.06-1.08 2C or a 1.20 1.40 4C
< Message edited by 2robinhood -- 10/1/2007 12:52:02 PM >
Printable Version
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> ARF or RTF >> RE: WillHobby Yak 54 ARF Question 
RE: WillHobby Yak 54 ARF Question - 
My cowl seems nicer quality than what I have read, fairly thick and doesn't seem too brittle. The cowling does have a crease in it from shipping, but I think I can fix it with a heat gun. I hope you don't mind, but I have a couple more questions for you. 
