RE: Protos buggy Questions??

RE: Protos buggy Questions??
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RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/20/2007 3:59:03 AM

rexrw

Posts: 88
Joined: 12/4/2007
From: phoenix, AZ, USA
Status: offline

I thought about dropping some fuel into the carb after taking the air filter off (I always did this on my 1/10th to get it going) but the filter is on there pretty good with the zip tie from the factory. I know it is as simple as cutting off the factory zip tie and jsut re-doing it but do you even use a zip tie on yours? I am not opposed to this method because it works well and fast but just don't know how well the filter will stay on without a zip tie. Which starter box works well for the Protos and where can I get one?

(in reply to mdtang)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/20/2007 12:04:23 PM

mdtang

Posts: 15
Joined: 4/21/2005
From: crosby, TX, USA
Status: offline

I kept the zip tie on my filter and just pulled it off. Once its off the "slim" from the caster oil in the fuel makes it a little eaisier to pull the tube off the next time. The trick is to get it back on. At any rate, this is how I do it. I have not purchased the starter box but you can find them pretty much anywhere. You can use GShobby.com or tower. I think OFNA makes a pretty good one for around 70. Try Ebay for a used one on the cheap.

(in reply to rexrw)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/20/2007 2:21:21 PM

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From: baraboo, WI, USA
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i take the pressuer line off of the pipe and blow into it. its super fast and easy
though sometimes it doesent have the grates taste

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The o''''le saying goes, pay me now, or pay me later, because you gonna pay me. "Pearl_414"

(in reply to mdtang)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/20/2007 6:16:38 PM

mdtang

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From: crosby, TX, USA
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I hope you don't do this after it has been ran. LOL

(in reply to zjwhitrock)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/21/2007 4:01:40 AM

rexrw

Posts: 88
Joined: 12/4/2007
From: phoenix, AZ, USA
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So today I tried to run my buggy. Covered up the pipe, gave it about 3-5 good tugs, then it started right up. Let it idle for am inute which it does real well then when I went to gas it it wouldn't go, it bogs down and stalls. Started it right back up and same thing over and over. I didn't have much time to mess with it but is it true that they come from the factory set to run a little rich for the break in and then need to be leaned out after it is broken in? I have only had it a few days and it is just barely broken in. This is my first 1/8th buggy so still trying to figure it out but guess it can't be much different than my 1/10th buggy right? THe high speed needle is still set where it is flush with the groove. Should I lean it out?

(in reply to mdtang)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/21/2007 5:22:56 AM

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Joined: 12/12/2005
From: marydel, DE, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: MorganSS

quote:

ORIGINAL: zjwhitrock

quote:

ORIGINAL: MorganSS

I understand why a bunch of the people in this thread are "pro protos" just by all of the grammar used. Its like a 3rd grade convention.

im 16 so shut fk up

what would you recomend for a $280 buggy??? a raze???

you should really learn to read the posting guidelines and policies, I would hate for you to get in trouble over something that seems to upset you so much mr zjwhitlock

Please resist the urge to curse, flame, degrade, insult or embarrass someone in your post. We encourage the free flow of your ideas, but believe that they can be communicated (and received) much more effectively if you keep things civil. If you have to vent, take it offline. We carefully monitor posts and will ban individuals who engage in offensive conduct within the forums. Thanks. (RCU Policies)

lol calling people a bunch of people 3rd graders because of grammar and being "pro protos" is not flaming, degrading, insult, or embarrassing. Its a forum not work lol its all about the passion of the hobby here not to judge others..

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(in reply to MorganSS)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/21/2007 12:16:20 PM

mdtang

Posts: 15
Joined: 4/21/2005
From: crosby, TX, USA
Status: offline

There are alot of factors that go into the "perfect break in". Everyone has their own little method for this and the OEM manual should tell you how to break in the motor that was put on your car. This being said, I will share my little method. Your question about factory settings is true. All top of the line companys will set there motors on the rich side to protect the motor from leaning out to much and burning the piston.

(in reply to rexrw)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/21/2007 12:55:10 PM

mdtang

Posts: 15
Joined: 4/21/2005
From: crosby, TX, USA
Status: offline

Sorry about that. I hit the wrong key on my keyboard. Ok back the the break in

Try this to break in a motor.
1. Set the High speed needle valve 3.5 turns out from the fully closed position
2. LEAVE THE LOW END SETTINGS ALONE FROM THE FACTORY (should be around 2 turns out.)
3. Using a good 20% fuel (extra oil for protection) run 1 full tank of fuel through the motor bumping the throttle the whole time to keep it from stalling out. (remember you are running rich and for this reason the motor can load up quickly and quit). After the run let the motor completly cool down for at least 20 min. This is a very important step that most people miss do to being impatient. You want to HEAT CYCLE THE NEW MOTOR. This lets all this new aluminum expand all the way to its max and contract back down. The better you heat cycle now the longer your motor will last and the more HP you will end up with. A blue/white smoke should be seen from the exhaust this shows to be on the rich side.
4 NOTE: NEVER RAP OUT FULL THROTTLE MORE THAN 2 SECONDS FOR THE FIRST 3 to 5 tanks.
5 Now lean the high end neddle valve in only 1/8 of a turn in. or clockwise for all of you totally new guys.
6 fuel up and run this tank in the same mannor.
7 After the run let cool for 20 min.
8 Set high end neddle valve 1/8 turn in again and run the car in the same mannor.
9 The car should still have a nice blue white smoke comming out of the exhaust at this point. The key is to take your time. Baby steps pay off later.
10 I choose to repeat the top 3 runs again and again for a total of 5 runs before the next major step.
11 Now 5 total runs have been put through the car and cooled down completly it is time to warm the motor and find the peak setting.
12 after the motor warms up for a min of casual driving, bring your car in and lean out the High end neddle valve in 1/16 incurments until the motor reaches max rpm and starts falling off. Back the neddle valve back out to the peak setting or the Highest RPM setting then back it out another 1/8 of a turn. This will be a little slower but will save your motor from burning up or locking up. I use this setting for bashing around and playing. I choose to only back it out 1/16 from max lean while racing.
A good way to tell if you are set correctly is to spit on the head of the motor and wait 3 to 5 sec. If the spit evaporates withen that time then you are to lean. If the spit hangs around longer than 5 seconds then you are to rich. if it takes 3 to 5 seconds to evaporate then you are good. You can also purchase a heat gun and find the correct temp settings which I know nothing about yet. At any rate, I break in all my motors like this and seem to have good luck with it. so Good luck and if I messed anything up Please correct me so I don't mess anyone up.

(in reply to mdtang)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/21/2007 2:10:59 PM

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From: baraboo, WI, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: mdtang

I hope you don't do this after it has been ran. LOL

why not its not like im sucking it in im blowing

_____________________________

The o''''le saying goes, pay me now, or pay me later, because you gonna pay me. "Pearl_414"

(in reply to mdtang)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/21/2007 2:25:17 PM

mdtang

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From: crosby, TX, USA
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UM. Because the exhaust would be hot and burn your lips.

Now thats a knee slapper.

(in reply to zjwhitrock)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/21/2007 3:27:48 PM

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From: baraboo, WI, USA
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no tthe pipe the prussuer line it doesnt get hot because its silacone

_____________________________

The o''''le saying goes, pay me now, or pay me later, because you gonna pay me. "Pearl_414"

(in reply to mdtang)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/21/2007 6:58:06 PM

mdtang

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Joined: 4/21/2005
From: crosby, TX, USA
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Ok I C yep that will work just be careful not to get any spit or liquids back into the tank. This will kill a motor.

(in reply to zjwhitrock)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/21/2007 8:05:46 PM

rexrw

Posts: 88
Joined: 12/4/2007
From: phoenix, AZ, USA
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Mdtang - let me start by saying your have been so helpful and thank you for that. It is because of guys like you that are willing to help out a newbie like me that will keep in this hobby for a long time. I followed your advice as far as leaning it out and it really worked well. Now here is the problem I ran in to today. After leaning it out ir uns really really good, but it is like it doesn't want to stop when I hit the brakes, it takes forever to slow down. Once I get it to a dead stop if I just tap the throttle it takes off and goes on its on, almost like cruise control. Does this have to do with the idle? I feel like I am so close to having it tuned just right(if there is such a thing) and now am confused as to why it wants to go on its own. Any suggestions? Like I said, when I tap the throttle it jsut takes off and doesn't want to stop.

(in reply to mdtang)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/21/2007 8:40:56 PM

mdtang

Posts: 15
Joined: 4/21/2005
From: crosby, TX, USA
Status: offline

Sounds like you got the motor running real good. I think the problem you are having is with the breaks. Try this.
1 with the motor off and the RX and TX powered up, Apply the breaks and hold the rear tires up off of the ground while leaving your front tires on the ground. Now push the car back and forth. You should have resistance doing this being as the break is applied. If the car is easy to move then you need to adjust the front break by turning the adjustment knob clockwise until the front wheels have resistance. Do this until the front tires almost start skidding to a stop. You want it to continue to roll but with some good resistance. Now that you finished the front then it is time to dial the rears in. Repeat the same steps but using the rear adjustment knob. BTW the adjustments are located on the throttle servo. they have a spring on the rod extending out with a knob or screw head for the adjustments. any way on the rear you need to set them all the way until they begin to skid or lock up. Stop as soon as this happens. Now you should have your problem solved and also set up to race. This will allow the front to stick into a turn (tight) while freeing up the rear to maximize control.

(in reply to rexrw)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/21/2007 9:41:29 PM

rexrw

Posts: 88
Joined: 12/4/2007
From: phoenix, AZ, USA
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I am going to head outside and try that right now. Could this by why it wants to go on it's own because there is no resistance?

(in reply to mdtang)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/21/2007 10:21:38 PM

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Joined: 1/22/2007
From: baraboo, WI, USA
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yes but the servo could be not centered which would be a simple fix of ajusting the Th trim on the remote, it would also explane the moving will the throtle is nutrel

also how long is a long way 50feet 200feet??

_____________________________

The o''''le saying goes, pay me now, or pay me later, because you gonna pay me. "Pearl_414"

(in reply to rexrw)

RE: Protos buggy Questions?? - 12/22/2007 4:29:46 AM