RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF

RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF
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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/4/2006 1:53:56 AM

Posts: 358
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From: Gatineau, QC, CANADA
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Since I'm planning to put a pilot and some interior later, I didn't glue the canopy. Three little metal sheet screws were enough, the canopy was fitting perfectly. I decided to put two screws on the side and one on the top.

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< Message edited by lthibault -- 9/4/2006 1:54:50 AM >

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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/4/2006 1:58:10 AM

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Here's a look at the battery compartement. I like to put a foam base under the battery. To keep the battery from moving to the back I use a rubber band.

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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/4/2006 2:02:32 AM

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A look a the interior and the electrical apparatus. With the receiver battery located on this spot, the plane balanced perfectly at 66mm.

Note the red, white and black colors help me plug the charger plug the right way.

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< Message edited by lthibault -- 9/4/2006 2:05:15 AM >

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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/4/2006 2:08:52 AM

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Ailerons were a breeze to put together. Contrary to certain posts in another thread about this airplane I didn't experience any problems with the struts, the holes were perfectly aligned.

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< Message edited by lthibault -- 9/4/2006 2:20:11 AM >

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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/4/2006 2:15:34 AM

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I didn't like to see the ailerons wires through the windows so I used tape to keem them up against the wing and route the wires all the way to the back.

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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/4/2006 2:18:09 AM

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There she is standing pretty...this is one sweet little plane.

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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/4/2006 12:42:43 PM

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From: Colebrook, CT, USA
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Excellent posts and plane, Luc! What are you using for batteries? I'm finishing up my Cub today.

< Message edited by FlyingGuy -- 9/4/2006 12:43:36 PM >

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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/4/2006 1:59:57 PM

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From: Mpls, MN, USA
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I bought the Cub to primarily fly off the small lake in the back of my house. I've had close to 35 flights on it so far, trying on several different component configurations along the way. The following are some notes and suggestions:

My original eFlite 40 amp esc fried after the first flight when I made a rough landing, splashing lots of water inside thru the holes underneath. So be careful about keeping the ESC dry. I have since replaced it with a CC 45 (waterproofed by CC for $7.50), using it's BEC functions to power the 4 JR servos. Happy to report this combo is a winner, giving me trouble-free flights even in 90 deg. weather. CC's waterproof coating also proved to work great, even after my dunking the plane. Pilot-induced error made it stall, diving while spinning from about 80ft, it hit the water vertically and remain there with the tail pointing up for 10 minutes untill I retrieved it. To my surprise, everything still worked when dried! Only damage were the cowling and one float. This is one tough little bird!

When flying on floats, its important to keep the CG as far forward as possible. Initially I had bundled 2x 3s1p 1800 into an end-to-end configuration (slips in easier). While it flies fine on wheel, it was extremely pitchy when on floats. Reconfiguring the packs to side-by-side solved the problem. I have also left the vertical fin off since I couldn't detect much difference when on floats, it also helps to keep the CG forward.

Flying on floats will definitely chew up more battery since one has to keep the throttle up at 75%-90% most of the time when compared to flying on wheels (50% throttle). with the 3600 (10c) lipo, I'm getting about 11 minutes (use up 80% capacity). With a 4400 (12c) lipo, I'm getting about 14 minutes. All the packs are from 3E Models, more than 50% cheaper than TP.

When making tight turns while taxiing, the water rudder will turn left much easier than right. On take-off, minimize using the rudder to risk tipping. The 12" prop does generate a lot of torque, this is especially pronounced when on wheels. Be very careful not to accelerate too abruptly on take-off. This effect is much less pronounced when on floats.

I have to say this is a very enjoyable float plane to fly, the wonderful scale look and tough built didn't hurt either.

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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/5/2006 1:33:41 AM

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Hi,

same setup as Greg, Thunder Power 3S, 4200 MHA 11.1V pack.

I had a second taught about the ESC, decided to swap with my Mini Funtana (Eflight 40 AMP) and put the Phoenix 35 AMP on the smaller plane. Don't wanna take any chance...I'm also using the Expert 4.8V 700 AMP battery to power the servos.

Later I may buy a CC 45 AMP waterproofed ESC, depending on my water take-off experience...I'm inclined to believe that I can avoid water by managing the elevator and keeping the nose of the plane up...we'll see.

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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/5/2006 2:05:40 AM

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quote:

ORIGINAL: lthibault

Later I may buy a CC 45 AMP waterproofed ESC, depending on my water take-off experience...I'm inclined to believe that I can avoid water by managing the elevator and keeping the nose of the plane up...we'll see.

If I ever had that Cub on floats I'd change the cooling air intake location. Whoever designed that arrangement didn't take float flying into consideration.

CR

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ccrobins@ktc.com

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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/5/2006 5:07:24 PM

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I'm thinking about a way to make this ESC waterproof. I'd be tempted to put silicon or marine type sealant at every end of the ESC.

Any problem with this operation? Don't think that it would create overheating.

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Luc

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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/5/2006 5:52:33 PM

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From: Mpls, MN, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: lthibault

I'm thinking about a way to make this ESC waterproof. I'd be tempted to put silicon or marine type sealant at every end of the ESC.

Any problem with this operation? Don't think that it would create overheating.

I have tried doing that, it kind of worked in terms of keeping water out. But the problem is water formed by condensation cannot escape, unless you have a way to create a vacuum.

For those who think the interior of the Cub will never get wet, trust me, it will, no matter how good a pilot you are. I have even coated the wood interior (front portion of fuselage) with a thin layer of epoxy to waterproof it.

(in reply to lthibault)

RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/5/2006 6:12:59 PM

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Joined: 12/5/2001
From: Kerrville, TX, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: lthibault

I'm thinking about a way to make this ESC waterproof. I'd be tempted to put silicon or marine type sealant at every end of the ESC.

Any problem with this operation? Don't think that it would create overheating.

I hope you aren't thinking of silicone rubber cement. The solvents in that stuff are corrosive. I wonder if the silicone sprays intended to waterproof auto ignition components would work.

CR

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Charley
ccrobins@ktc.com

(in reply to lthibault)

RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/5/2006 6:14:59 PM

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From: Colebrook, CT, USA
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Hi Gents, Anyone have any take-off, flying, landing tips for the Cub? I made my first takeoff today and she rotated left and I broke a prop. No damage to the bird but now I am more apprehensive than ever and put her back in the truck. My experience thus far is about a year w/ HZ Freedom, PZ Cub, PZ P-51, Cox Spitfire, and my E-Starter on floats. I'm also confused about setting up rates and expo and control deflections with my Futaba 7C .. that may or may not be related to today's event. Thx, Harry

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RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF - 9/5/2006 6:27:09 PM

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FlyingGuy,

many possibilities here...did you perform a premature take-off, i.e. the plane stalled, you raised the aileron on the side of the stall, making things worse?

With tail traggers make a slow start until the tail is up, then gradually accelerate until the plane gain speed and you will be almost airborn, just a touch of up elevator. This is gained through experience and feelings. It is like the plane is already flying on the ground.

I fly another tail dragger, a warbird (P40 Warhawk by Hangar 9) and it is the same technique.

As far as the exponential goes, it is just a way to ''slow down'' or increase the servo's response to the stick, thus helping you better manage the plane. Try to fly ''scale'', i.e. decrease the response by 20% (according to the J3 Manual). You can fine tune this before doing an actual flight, just spend a little bit of time in your shop. Put the receiver of the plane on and try your radio, change the exponential and hit the switch while you move the sticks, you'll be able to see the difference by looking at the rudder, elevator or ailerons.

< Message edited by lthibault -- 9/5/2006 7:15:30 PM >

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