RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (Full Version)

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lthibault -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/12/2006 1:50:35 PM)

That's correct. In my case (JR), positive means softer stick response around neutral.

I'm confident that I will get it right, tail draggers are a little more demanding for take-offs.




TonyF -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/12/2006 4:39:16 PM)

My experience with the Cub has shown that on pavement you do not want to lift the tail during the take-off. Hold up elevator to keep the tail wheel on the ground, slowly add power and let it lift off in a three-point attitude. The main gear is a bit too far forward to let the tail rise during a take-off and it will most often ground loop. Also on landing, try for a three-point touchdown just above the stall. Landing with a two-point and any excess speed will start it bouncing.

Looking forward to getting the floats on mine and getting it to the lake!



Charley -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/12/2006 5:16:50 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: lthibault

Although I've been successfully flying warbirds and 3-D airplanes, I just realized that a Cub was a total different beast...

Gave it a try on wheels yesterday. On the runway the plane would always turn in one direction or another,



You might want to make sure you have some toe-in on the main wheels.

CR



lthibault -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/12/2006 5:20:50 PM)

Good point Charley. Thanks for the feedback.




FlyingGuy -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/12/2006 5:29:34 PM)

Hey Charlie, This is probably belaboring the obvious, but do we bring the toe-in condition by lightly bending the gear into the that configuration?



Charley -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/13/2006 3:27:37 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: FlyingGuy

Hey Charlie, This is probably belaboring the obvious, but do we bring the toe-in condition by lightly bending the gear into the that configuration?


That's what I had in mind, consistent with not breaking anything. What I've done in the past is drill a hole in the end of a block of pine, etc., and slip the hole over the axle for a bending tool. It doesn't take much toe-in to be effective.

CR




lthibault -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/15/2006 5:25:44 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: TonyF

My experience with the Cub has shown that on pavement you do not want to lift the tail during the take-off. Hold up elevator to keep the tail wheel on the ground, slowly add power and let it lift off in a three-point attitude. The main gear is a bit too far forward to let the tail rise during a take-off and it will most often ground loop. Also on landing, try for a three-point touchdown just above the stall. Landing with a two-point and any excess speed will start it bouncing.




TonyF,

planning to maiden her tomorrow morning.

Now back to this take-off technique, you probably need to release the elevator at one point to avoid premature take-off and stall, right? Probably once the plane has gained enough speed?




PaulG-RC -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/16/2006 2:22:05 AM)

I finally got mine up and flying and it does fly very well.
On mine I decided to use half the batt so I use my TP 2100 and I can fly doing touch and goes for a good 15 minute with good throttle management.
I have a Pheonix 35 amp and a 12x6 APC E prop all my servo is at the most forward position and my ESC is in the cowling along with 60 grams of lead.
I still save 5 oz of weight.
I also made my pilot profile like I do in all my plane.
I have a piece of foam rubber preventing the batt from slidding.
I added some details like the bungees ,foot step, the rear handles and the stab rigging wires.
I flew with my DPR on board and the result are very impressive
Here is the result on a 11 minute Air time.

Time: 12:50
Rate: 1 SPS
Charge: 1409 mAh
Battery Efficiency: 82%

Max Current: 28.68 A
Avg Current: 6.59 A

Max Voltage: 12.39 V
Avg Voltage: 11.09 V
Min Voltage: 9.75 V

Max Power: 290.95 W
Avg Power: 69.98 W

Now I wish I had the floats too,saw the video and looks like a good performer too.





Glacier Girl -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/18/2006 1:12:38 PM)

Nice job Paul!!!!

I have mine just about finished, just have to complete the cockpit detailing.
I fly from the local soccer fields which tend to be rough and the grass is normally high, so I went with the bush pilot set up. Ballon tires that should make take off/landings a little easier.
Running a single Hyperon 3S3700 20C pack, CC 60 I had laying around, Hitec servos and rx.
Came out at 4 pounds, 1oz. ready to fly. [:D]



PaulG-RC -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/18/2006 2:27:03 PM)

Oh ya! [:D] love those tundra tires ,I have the same setup on my big 1/4 scale super cub and its great.
Are those lite cub wheels too or regular rubber?
I also fly off the soccer field close by in the early morning and it would be nice.
But great news for the couple of us using the field tomorow morning they start working on installing astro turf and we already have the permission to use it next year as we will not damage it.[:D]

Paul



Glacier Girl -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/18/2006 5:06:48 PM)

Paul they are lite weight rubber versions. Hardly weigh much more then the stock versions, plus not being foam, should hold up a lot longer. Who needs floats when you have donuts.[:)]



TonyF -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/18/2006 7:11:03 PM)

Luc,

That is correct, Just use enough elevator to kep it in a three-point stance, add power and when it begins to get light bring the elevator back to level.

Hope this helps! I got the floats on mine now and got three flights in Sunday. It works perfectly! I enjoy it more on floats then with wheels.



Glacier Girl -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/18/2006 8:22:58 PM)

If the swampers don't work this winter, I'm going to switch to skis, since I already have them.



xrossbow -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/18/2006 9:58:29 PM)

Glacier Girl, which Hitec servos did you use and did you have to modify the slots?

And anyone.......... has anyone seen any problems with a larger controller in use instead of the recommended 40. I really don't want to use a separate battery setup for the servos if I can get away with it.

Thanks



PaulG-RC -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/18/2006 11:34:39 PM)

Bigger controller is not a problem, a smaller than 30amp would be a problem.
I use a 35 phoenix and its perfect.

Here is the datas from my DPR while in flight, you will see that the average amp draw is very low and the wattage still high.

Time: 6:35
Battery Efficiency: 91%

Max Current: 25.98 A
Avg Current: 6.23 A

Max Voltage: 12.39 V
Avg Voltage: 11.40 V
Min Voltage: 10.15 V

Max Power: 270.44 W
Avg Power: 67.69 W


I will have the skis on mine thats for shure.[:D]





lthibault -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/19/2006 3:09:09 AM)

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm happy to report a successful maiden flight last Saturday. The take-off technique is exactly as described earlier. I would also had to be ready to adjust to wind conditions, i.e. If some cross-wind happens, the plane will quickly move so adjust the rudder consequently!

Other observations: plane flies well, lots of power with the TD4200 MAH lipo. Need to fly scale, this is not a Funtana!!!
The plane is extremely robust, I made a couple of less than desirable landings and nothing moved. I'm sure that it will be much easier with floats.

A word about your landing approach would be much appreciated. My current assessment: the plane drops quickly and doesn't float much. I'd'be tempted to come in fast and create stall at the very end. Not the easiest plane to handle compared to my H9 P40 90 and Funtana 90.



PaulG-RC -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/19/2006 3:17:53 AM)

Salut Luc

I did notice that also from flying one with the 4200TP batt and mine using TP2100, even with my DPR onboard it still 3 oz lighter and even 3 oz less made a difference in flight and landing.
So if I fly floats that should help too being a bit lighter.

Were did you try your plane luc ?

Paul



xrossbow -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/19/2006 3:33:09 AM)

Thanks Paul for the reply. What I was wondering about with the bigger controller was would it take of the problem reported by e-flite under hot flying conditions of the controller shutting down. This being the reason they were suggesting a separate batt for servos, etc.



PaulG-RC -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/19/2006 3:41:16 AM)

If the cooling is not restricted then there should not be any problems unless you use more then 4 servos, then you might need a separate batt.



Glacier Girl -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/19/2006 11:36:32 AM)

xrossbow,
I used Hitec 81's in mine. Mount tabs were just long enough to fit the cut outs.
I used a Castle Creations 60 esc in mine. One I had it laying around, and two it has a 3 amp bec which will run 4 servos no problem. I had read here and other places about the 40's problem with heat, and read the specs on it. Per it's specs it will run 4 sub servos, but there is a foot note on it. Says you should reduce by one the number of servos dependent on mfg.
Was simpler to go this route then adding a seperate receiver pack and/or adding a ubec.



Glacier Girl -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/19/2006 11:48:29 AM)

Something else I did, just to be different, and because I didn't like the set up.
Instead of the wheel collars and epoxy route listed in the manual to attach the two elevator control rods together, I put a Z bend on the left rod and used a crimp connector and silver solder to hold the rods together. There was a method to my madness. The right rod falls right in line with the servo arm, the left doesn't, so in pinching the rods together with the collars it would cause both to bind on the tubes as they were connected to the servo arm. By putting a Z bend in the left rod I was able to make it slide with little drag and line up with the right rod's direction of travel. The rods are strong enough that the Z bend won't affect it, and now there is less drag for the servo to overcome. Every little bit helps when making a servo work.
Oh and I did it outside the bird, after marking the spots on the rods for the connection. Once it was soldered, it was just a matter of slipping the rods in the tubes from the cockpit side and sliding them into place.



PaulG-RC -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/19/2006 12:39:04 PM)

I also did not like the wheel colars as they were too big and the rods would move, so I replace them with smaller colar and use two of them and secure with JB weld, to avoid any bend I simply placed the servo after conecting the rod to it and it worked really good .
For the controller I have the 35 in the cowling and I open the radiator hole so the controller has a perfect airflow so heating is not a factor.



PaulG-RC -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/19/2006 1:30:58 PM)

I was asked to show details of my landing gear bungee.


Well here it is ,I simply use medium size piano wire, one end has a bend shape like a hook and goes around the end of the landing gear and the other end is also a double bend and goes under the plastic gear hold. Under the plastic is a smaller bend so it locks in the plastic.
The bungee cover is simply black foam rubber that used to be little bumpers from a small tug boat I had I simply slice them and made a cut to slip the piano wire then I applied CA and press the slice together and bingo its a working bungee.



xrossbow -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/19/2006 5:29:07 PM)

Thanks folks, all neat ideas. I do have a Castle 45 that I was planning on using, but had been wondering about the need to go larger.



P-51B -> RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF (9/19/2006 6:38:43 PM)

xrossbow,

I have Hitec 225 in this plane and in the Ultrastick 25. Both have CC Pheonix 60 controllers. The servos fit perfectly and I have never had any servo issues or the need for a UBEC or separate pack on these.

I would have to check the specs again, but I think the 60 and 45 are rated the same as far as how many servos they will handle.



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