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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/3/2012 9:11 AM   
Props4ever


 

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From: Mississauga, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Hi George,

Either the hefty springs on those hinges or some sort of locking ends that dosen't let door to fall on it's front and keeps it parallel to the fuselage, then front rollers roll on the belly skin but i'm not sure how rear rollers or support props the door.

I tried to find the relation of front door tot he strut by placing it on the belly with gear retracted with a pice of balsa in between the two taped together, and then tracked the gear out to find the right angles and position. It seemed to work out right but D1's issue started. This I will tackle over the winter after Connie's maiden flight...

Hey Timex, thanks a lot for digging this up for me, btw how is ur C-133 coming along?

< Message edited by Props4ever -- 10/3/2012 8:46 PM >

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/3/2012 11:35 AM   
ampbomber


 

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Status: offline 		Sam,

Have fun with the doors this winter.

C-133 is being covered with Flite Metal. Progress is usually posted here : http://cargomasterraster.blogspot.com/

Got your snow blower ready?

George

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/4/2012 4:05 PM   
Props4ever


 

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Super Flitemetal work ur doing there Timex.....Loving it. Registered on ur blog there n will post.


Updates form last couple nights...

Fixed damaged right side fuselage green stripe, added windows decals and applied fuselage titles and aircraft registration number AP AJZ....

To add titles, I had to paint vinyl letters with same green paint as stripe first n then application...

BTW, last nite all the missing "N's" were applied to the titles!

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/4/2012 4:09 PM   
Props4ever


 

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Last night made remaining 3 rear cowl dome pieces out of 6oz CF, all are now cured waiting to be trimmed from access flash and installation on the nacelles...

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/5/2012 5:16 AM   
Props4ever


 

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Status: offline 		Finally made a mechanical elevator control setup, it's old school type with a rod bend 90 degrees on both ends, with another "L" arm solder 90 degree downwards with A thin binding wire and has brass bushings made from tubes to be used as hinges of the control arm.

This was later installed at the hinge line at the center of the stabilizer and fuselage, I also made my very first series of many access hatches to be able to access in the fuselage from left side to connect the connectors of both elevator push rod to the control arm. deflection tests gave following deflections figures.

Up deflection is 1"-3/8"
Down is about the same....

To do this, it took 4 hours to do!...

< Message edited by Props4ever -- 10/5/2012 5:43 AM >

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/6/2012 3:05 AM   
Props4ever


 

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Status: offline 		Making and then will install center rudder control mechanism. Both OB rudders will be fly by wire controlled with servo in the fins but center one is internally controlled with mechanical set up.

With this method I'm saving weight in the tail by placing HD MG rudder servo in the center of the fuselage besides elevator servo. Both will operate with CF push rods.

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/6/2012 6:27 AM   
Chad Veich



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Status: offline 		Looking good Props. There is light at the end of the tunnel!

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/7/2012 12:17 AM   
Props4ever


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Chad Veich

Looking good Props. There is light at the end of the tunnel!



I can see it now Chad, I can see it my friend....I'm now looking for a test pilot for this bird's maiden flight or a really good spotter as my Co-pilot...


Model's Update:

Both out board rudder tail servos are installed in the fins, now making servo mounting platform in the center of the fuselage for elevator servo and center rudder servo operation.

Elevator servos is Savox SC-0251MG
All 3 rudder servos are Hitec HS-5475HB's


On all L1049H models there were 2 large cargo loading and unloading doors, one at front left and other on rear left of the fuselage. I was thinking on making rear large cargo door as hatch but now I don't see a reason to as there will be only wires and push rods in this section for the tail plane. I do plan on making front cargo door as access hatch for the electronics and gauge panel in there. This door will be hinged at the top and at the bottom I will place 2 earth magnets to secure it and may as well place 2 more magnets in the center of both side frames of the door.

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/7/2012 4:34 PM   
Props4ever


 

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Status: offline 		Another day is going to be spent on making, test fitting and then glueing all the new main gear bays reinforcing parts. After all major parts are installed with satisfaction, to make these rails and both gear bays robust, layup of 6 oz Carbon fiber cloth will be done in a way the forces will transfer into the full gear bay structure and not just be left on these rails only. I have to do this to make sure aircraft will keep flying and doing takeoff and landing with peace in mind and not being always worried about on the back of my mind that rails or this structure would fail on me, off course unless heavy botch landings happen then things can get different...

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/7/2012 6:03 PM   
iron eagel



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Status: offline 		Sam, just be careful of the weight all of this is going to add to the airframe.

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/7/2012 6:13 PM   
Slow Low



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Status: offline 		Build to fly, not to crash!?  Hey maybe that's what I've been doing wrong....  ;S


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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/7/2012 7:56 PM   
Props4ever


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: iron eagel

Sam, just be careful of the weight all of this is going to add to the airframe.



I know Paul but if you go back into the thread ans see earlier pictures posted, you will see why I have to reinforce these bays. Presently rails have been held through slotted two 1/8" ply formers in each bay and after these years of building, moving around the model one of the formers broke couple nights ago!. You will see it when you scroll through older pictures poster earlier. As for the weight, I have more then enough power from 4 x .55sx electric motors turning 13x8 3 blade MS props....

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/7/2012 7:57 PM   
Props4ever


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Slow Low

Build to fly, not to crash!?  Hey maybe that's what I've been doing wrong....  ;S



You know, it's never a bad idea to somewhat over build a bit at these strategic area.....How are you, haven't seen you around in few months now, hope all is good on ur end James...

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/7/2012 8:07 PM   
iron eagel



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Status: offline 		Sometimes you have to accept that a given stress point is going to fail despite you best efforts to overbuild (something I have learned over the years) just make it easy to replace...
As far as gear and support failure, it's more often been my hard landings that have been a issue when something broke.

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/8/2012 1:48 AM   
Props4ever


 

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Status: offline 		Well Paul, all the planes can crash but we have to do our best in prevention that they don't crash and if they do, depending how they crash, damage is minimal my friend. What i'mm giving this plane is extra insurance and security plus peace in my mind.

It's a big plane, so i'm sure it can take on some extra weight and not even feel it.....designed for 4 forty size glow motors and now electric powered by 4 Fifty five size motors!!!!.......She'll go to the moon with this power on her wings...

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/8/2012 1:49 AM   
Props4ever


 

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Status: offline 		Left side is now ready for gluing and CF Application. Starting to build right side now....had to take a break due to back issues starting once again...

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/8/2012 2:39 AM   
iron eagel



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Status: offline 		Just picking on you for building a "lead sled" Sam, LOL.

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/8/2012 3:22 AM   
Props4ever


 

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Status: offline 		Aren't all oldies propliners fall in this precise category when it comes to giant scale......lol

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/10/2012 5:39 AM   
Props4ever


 

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Status: offline 		Question?

On mains i'm using Robart HD 630 series retracts with custom made struts.
On air cylinder of this retract there is a air nipple fitting at the front and one on it's side for actuation. Now problem I'm facing is, once rails and reinforcement side plates are glued in and retracts are installed, there will be no way to access to this nipple on the side of the cylinder. I'm going to run it's air-line tube under and round the retract on to other side so they can be run in though the wing and out the center top of the wing, into fuselage where retract distribution air valve will be.

So is this normal do to when installing these retracts as I did on on my model or do you guys make a access to get to this side nipple and air-line tube?

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/10/2012 7:22 AM   
Boomerang1



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Status: offline 		Yeah, not the best bit of design, are they?

I just notch the supporting rail where the nipple is located so that the air line
is not jammed against the rail.

I leave enough extra air line on them so I can remove them & work on them
without disconnecting any lines.

They are tough & reliable although you will break a trunion on that noseleg
if you make a real mess of the landing. Still, easier than trying to fix a ripped
out retract. Just 5 mins replacing the trunion & you would be good to go again.

- John.

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/11/2012 10:04 PM   
Props4ever


 

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Status: offline 		Last week our local news paper did an interview on this model's progress as they remember how and when and why this project was started back in 2006, so last night I found this beautiful article on there website.

Love to share it with you all. It's really great knowing that after all the hard work over the years on this model, I get appreciated and recognized this way, this is 4th paper in last 1 month who published my model, other 3 were local Canadian-Pakistani newspapers....

http://www.mississauga.com/community/article/1516252super-connie-comes-back-as-radio-controlled-model


Can't wait to fully complete this bird in-time for maiden flight at the end of this month.....

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/12/2012 11:30 AM   
Props4ever


 

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Status: offline 		First major servo is dry fitted in the center top of the center wing section, this is Hitec HS 785HB "Sail servo" to function both flaps on this model.

Initially i placed servo where it suited best to be installed, then, drew a outline with silver sharpie marker, then used HD x-acto knifes to cut off the layering of fiberglass skin. After this a pocket was made by removing the foam with x-acto knife once again. Then servo is dry fitted in this pocket and it fits nice and level. Next is to make mounting bracket or blocks out of hardwood to securely and snugly mount the servo on it with it's screws. The nyrods that I bought earlier were of smaller thickness then needed for point hinges to be attached to one end, Hopefully I will get bigger size nyrods and install then after making channels in the wing structure first. There will be 2 nyrods pushing out and pulling in each flap panel. I have found 6" servo CF arm on HK site that I have ordered to be made into Flaps servo arm for nyrods to be hooked up to. This arm will push out and pull in 3" length of the nyrods for full flaps operation.

2nd phase will be to make a jig with 2 ling 1/4" brass tubes mounted on a specific angle, this jig will help on making 2 holes at both end frames of each flap bay for CF telescopic sliding rods to be glued into the wing structure. Once these rods are glued in, they will push flaps out at straight and level angle from both ends while aluminum flaps slider in the middle of the each flap will be tilting the flap out and in down position. The rotation of this slider will be done by a pin that will be installed in the curve slot of this tilting flap's slider.

I'm sure some of you must be lost on this fowler flaps mechanism, but once i do start doing it and will try to post the pictures as i go along, you folks will understand it properly and it will all make sense in the end....

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/14/2012 5:57 AM   
Props4ever


 

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Status: offline 		Didn't liked how center wing sections surface finished turned out the first time, juss wasn't right for my liking, so it was re-sanded, few ports filled and re glazed with auto glazing putty. Will get wet sanded with 400 grit wet/dry paper on a block to get perfect smooth finish, then re prime and re-paint in two colors this time!.

Metallic aluminum "Metallic from Krylon paint systems"

Light gray on all nacelles along with wing sections behind them both top and bottom on nacelles only as rest of the bottom on center wing will have 6oz layer of carbon fiber.

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/17/2012 1:06 AM   
Props4ever


 

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Status: offline 		Well for last couple nights I have been refinishing the upper surface of the center wing section, it's amazing when you think it's body work is done and you shoot a coat light coat or two of the primer, what still shows through!. It's a long tedious process but finally it's come to end with me after going over more then few times and filling this spot or that with auto glazing putty......Presently is set to dry up int he warm ambient temperature of the house, next will be another coat of primer on the glazed spots and then painting time!!!!

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RE: Scratch building 105 - 10/17/2012 1:10 AM   
Props4ever


 

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Status: offline 		Maiden delayed...

I had picked up a date to do the maiden at the end of the month but due to non arrival of HK shipment in time, I have postponed this date further into mid to end of November. This will also give me good time to install all the electrical components in the plane and then do vigorous ground testing of all the systems to my satisfaction before the day come for her to take off, fly around and land back safely.....

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