RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G  
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Supe... - 6/7/2008 5:11:21 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1420
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: online 		World's biggest S Connie model.

This is the biggest S Connie model that i have known so far, it's built by "the Melardy family" of Belgium.

Just super model at 1/6th scale = 21 feet wingspan and 19 feet in length.

There is one being built in Ontario, Canada also, its the same scale too.


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(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 351

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Supe... - 6/7/2008 10:12:51 AM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1215
Joined: 10/9/2002
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Props4ever Ed: I have different ones that i am using.
14" x 2" Greatplanes one. 6" x 2" Small Greatplanes one. 4" x 12" x 1/4" Ply
(220 grit on one side and 150 grit on other side) 4" x 2" x 12" hard wood
block also that i use at times. Why, what did i do wrong?


Which time???? No, just kidding! I was just curious what length bar you were
using considering the length of the fuselage.



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       Post #: 352

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Supe... - 6/7/2008 5:32:37 PM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1420
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: online
quote:

ORIGINAL: FliteMetal


quote:

ORIGINAL: Props4ever Ed: I have different ones that i am using.
14" x 2" Greatplanes one. 6" x 2" Small Greatplanes one. 4" x 12" x 1/4" Ply
(220 grit on one side and 150 grit on other side) 4" x 2" x 12" hard wood
block also that i use at times. Why, what did i do wrong?


Which time???? No, just kidding! I was just curious what length bar you were
using considering the length of the fuselage.




Yeah nothing special actually, i have found there is no need to use special tools to work on this model, heck i even used table and side of wall to do critical alignment of all my engine nacelles!

Didn't find need to make special jigs or fixtures to do that. Only time i had a need to make a fixture box was when my friend Mike and i decided to make vertical long slots for all 3 spars in the center wing section.

That's when we made a fixture box with top and bottom cut outs to run hot wire through it while we had to place wing section in between to be slotted.


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< Message edited by Props4ever -- 6/7/2008 5:56:19 PM >

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 353

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Supe... - 6/7/2008 8:38:32 PM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1420
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: online
Glassed bottom of the outer wings this morning, currently they are drying...

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(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 354

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Sup... - 6/8/2008 2:35:18 AM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1215
Joined: 10/9/2002
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I'm curious as to why you decided you didn't need to sheet your flying surfaces?


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       Post #: 355

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Sup... - 6/8/2008 4:20:35 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1420
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: online
quote:

ORIGINAL: FliteMetal

I'm curious as to why you decided you didn't need to sheet your flying surfaces?


Hmmm, the only flying surfaces that i left as un-sheeted are 5 rudders, rest of them are (Elevators presently) sheeted. Ailerons will be sheeted and flaps are made of solid balsa sheet.

I left rudders as open frame so i could cover them in fabric or with silkspan and dope. Most of the L-1049s had there rudders fabric covered initially then later on some were replaced with aluminum skinned rudders.

I hope i answered your question..



< Message edited by Props4ever -- 6/8/2008 4:33:24 AM >

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 356

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Sup... - 6/8/2008 4:34:52 AM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1215
Joined: 10/9/2002
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I suppose you don't consider your wings flying surfaces... What's to prevent your wings from
quite literally flapping in the breeze without tension and compression provided by sheeting?


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       Post #: 357

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Sup... - 6/8/2008 4:50:45 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1420
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: online 		Ahh i see what you are saying, for some wierd reason i thought you were asking about flying control surfaces.

As for wing, will be following same method as fuselage, my inner wing will be glassed with 6oz cloth and outers are covered with 4oz cloth.

I am sure with this method i will have enough strength or more strength then required as what balsa sheeting glassed over provides for tension and compression..

Wing is solid foam, spars are epoxied in vertical position, once glassed top and bottom it should be fine. I personally don't like sheeting due to the fact the glues that expand while curing process.



< Message edited by Props4ever -- 6/8/2008 5:06:21 AM >

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 358

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Sup... - 6/8/2008 6:10:33 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1420
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: online 		I am sure my model's glassed wing will act same to tension and compression as fully composite fiberglass wings that are available in various ARFs now days. The only difference is, i will leave foam as part of wing's structure.

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 359

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Sup... - 6/8/2008 6:56:45 PM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1420
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: online 		Glassing center wing section.

I am starting to glass the center wing section now, i am using 6oz cloth to do this section. You will see i have cut around the nacelles at this time.
Nacelles will be glassed with 1oz or 2oz cloth as they are wooden structure and don't need to be glassed with 6oz cloth.

Process:

First is to cut the cloth to the size and shape needed, I made sure to leave some extra cloth on both LE and TE so i could wrap it on bottom side while applying the resin.

Second step will be applying light coat of resin mixture to the wings upper surface. Once resin is applied i will lay cloth over it.

Third step is to use old credit or debit card and use it to lay the cloth evenly against the wings surface by going even strokes from LE to TE and root to the outer wing joining rib.

Forth step is to apply more resin to the even out cloth to make sure all the weave is full. It is very important to squeegee out all the access resin to save the weight and sanding later on.

Once glassed is wet and all the weaves have enough resin in them, i will leave the wing to dry before going to area to be glassed.

You can continue to glass other areas while one area is drying but i like to wait till first area is enough dry to be at tacky stage.


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< Message edited by Props4ever -- 6/8/2008 7:15:09 PM >

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       Post #: 360

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Sup... - 6/8/2008 9:01:48 PM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1215
Joined: 10/9/2002
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		To answer your question Sammy...no, laminating the thin bare unsheeted foam is not going
to be at all compariable to glassing a sheeted wing. The unidirectional cellulose within the
balsa sheeted wing imparts tension and compression greater than epoxy resin and fiber
glass alone. It also serves to provide a smooth base more easily leveled and sanded to
resemble aluminum panels. Grain of the balsa sheeting should run from tip to root.

For the greatest strength, your glass cloth should be applied on a bias. This would appear
as if at roughly a 45 degree weave angle to the leading or tailing edge. The weave appears
as if it were an "X" VS appearing as parallel to either the leading or tailing edge.

It is easy to create a test bed so you won't end up jepordizing your investment in time and
materials.

< Message edited by FliteMetal -- 6/8/2008 9:03:24 PM >


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       Post #: 361

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Sup... - 6/9/2008 3:21:46 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1420
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: online
quote:

ORIGINAL: FliteMetal

To answer your question Sammy...no, laminating the thin bare unsheeted foam is not going
to be at all compariable to glassing a sheeted wing. The unidirectional cellulose within the
balsa sheeted wing imparts tension and compression greater than epoxy resin and fiber
glass alone. It also serves to provide a smooth base more easily leveled and sanded to
resemble aluminum panels. Grain of the balsa sheeting should run from tip to root.

For the greatest strength, your glass cloth should be applied on a bias. This would appear
as if at roughly a 45 degree weave angle to the leading or tailing edge. The weave appears
as if it were an "X" VS appearing as parallel to either the leading or tailing edge.

It is easy to create a test bed so you won't end up jepordizing your investment in time and
materials.



Well i can't sheet now as i have already stated to glass the wing sections, so far both outer wings and top of left inner wing has parallel weave as i didn't knew it should be on 45 degree angle!. Thanks for letting me know this.
As for rest of the wing that still needs to be glassed ie: right top and both lower sides, i can glass these with 45 degree angles. I can't do anything for the sections that have already been glassed.

Well i suppose we will see what happens once she takes off, either it will fly fine or it will return in garbage bags..Oh well.


(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 362

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Sup... - 6/9/2008 3:58:39 AM    </