RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G  
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/... - 7/11/2008 9:00:18 AM   
Slow Low



Posts: 188
Joined: 4/11/2007
From: St. Thomas, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		...sorry - and maybe a weight reduction hole in the centre of formers A,B, and C

(in reply to Slow Low)
       Post #: 526

RE: Scratch building 105" W/... - 7/11/2008 11:29:25 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1482
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		First of all i must apologize to Charlie (Loudbydesign) for not properly understanding what he meant in his earlier post with drawing of formers in conjunction for extending engine mount length by adding spacer. After reading what Slow Low posted i went through your post and clearly understood what you were trying to suggest. Honestly i thought as you were saying to add another former behind the present firewall and pass spruce or hardwood rails through them as older kits used to have!.

Yes as all 3 of you guys suggested is what i was looking to do and now i will decide how i am going to make these spacer extensions between 3 designs suggested. I hope ED can also pitch in here too.





< Message edited by Props4ever -- 7/11/2008 11:31:50 AM >

(in reply to Slow Low)
       Post #: 527

RE: Scratch building 105" W... - 7/11/2008 5:04:39 PM   
ByLoudDesign



Posts: 315
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Mesa, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Sammy!

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(in reply to Props4ever)
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RE: Scratch building 105" W... - 7/11/2008 6:07:38 PM   
Props4ever


 

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From: Canada, ON, CANADA
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Slow Low,

What do you suggest in regards to making moulds for the cowling?

I like to know how would you approach this and what methods and material you will use if you were to do it.

As for spacer extensions, if one of you guys can draw me a drawing for it with 3 views then i will make these over this weekend and get done with them also. Presently firewall diameter is 5", i will use either DB mounts or GP mounts.

(in reply to ByLoudDesign)
       Post #: 529

RE: Scratch building 105" W... - 7/11/2008 6:57:28 PM   
ByLoudDesign



Posts: 315
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Mesa, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		To properly draw it up would need to know where your engine exhaust is going to go so as to not cause a problem!

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Projects on the board: Stinson SR-9, Orion P-3, Dornier DO-24,Canadair DC-4M2. Pilatus PC-9 Future Projects: Curtiss F11-C2, Osprey C-22, Canadair CL-415, Connie CL-121, Stinson Model A Gruman TBM,
bylouddesign.com "Scale without compromise"

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 530

RE: Scratch building 105" W... - 7/11/2008 7:25:36 PM   
Props4ever


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: ByLoudDesign

To properly draw it up would need to know where your engine exhaust is going to go so as to not cause a problem!


Ahannn,

I had a feeling that exhaust might come into this equation!

Actually it won't effect it, i am posting this 3d model of a exhaust system that was to be done by a fellow in Germany for my model, in this 3d model picture exhaust wouldn't come in contact with this spacer extension if you look closely. Muffler will go around it and into lower scoop.

My scale muffler design will be based on his design as seen here..

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by Props4ever -- 7/11/2008 7:28:37 PM >

(in reply to ByLoudDesign)
       Post #: 531

RE: Scratch building 105" W... - 7/11/2008 7:32:56 PM   
ByLoudDesign



Posts: 315
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Mesa, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Nice muffler / multiport ehxaust! But what is the rout from engine port to muffler input, which side is it on and what is its dia. Just full of questions aren't I! LOL

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Projects on the board: Stinson SR-9, Orion P-3, Dornier DO-24,Canadair DC-4M2. Pilatus PC-9 Future Projects: Curtiss F11-C2, Osprey C-22, Canadair CL-415, Connie CL-121, Stinson Model A Gruman TBM,
bylouddesign.com "Scale without compromise"

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 532

RE: Scratch building 105" W... - 7/11/2008 7:35:19 PM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1482
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Yeah you are..he he

I'm going for Friday prayers now, once i'm back, i'll fill you up then. It's not rocket science to figure that out...

< Message edited by Props4ever -- 7/11/2008 7:36:00 PM >

(in reply to ByLoudDesign)
       Post #: 533

RE: Scratch building 105" W... - 7/11/2008 7:38:44 PM   
ByLoudDesign



Posts: 315
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Mesa, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		OK, I'm not a rocketeer anyway, LOL

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Projects on the board: Stinson SR-9, Orion P-3, Dornier DO-24,Canadair DC-4M2. Pilatus PC-9 Future Projects: Curtiss F11-C2, Osprey C-22, Canadair CL-415, Connie CL-121, Stinson Model A Gruman TBM,
bylouddesign.com "Scale without compromise"

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 534

RE: Scratch building 105" W... - 7/11/2008 7:42:27 PM   
Slow Low



Posts: 188
Joined: 4/11/2007
From: St. Thomas, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		I think I would use a three piece epoxy glass approach.
For the first section, I would place the cowl nose-up in a large mound of clay and form a concave bowl around the natural seam line that you can see on the original part. I would use a marble to put a couple or three registration marks in the concave face, and then mould a ring section of the front of the nose. This will allow you to pull the front section off axially so that you can maintain a nice rounded edge, and not have to cut a perfect circle out of the front of each part later.
After that has cured I would remove the clay and do a two piece section for the remainder. I would build a clay cone to set the cowl onto first that filled in the back side and also those cut-outs for the exhaust. I would trim the exhaust cut-outs from the finished part by hand with a template.
The concave face on the ring will allow you to split the rear sections first when it's time to remove a part. Then you can tap on the flange of the forward ring to remove the part.
The cone on the bottom will give you lots of access room to get inside the mould from behind and will give you a nice line on the part to trim to in the end.

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 535

RE: Scratch building 105" W... - 7/12/2008 7:11:37 AM   
Props4ever


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: ByLoudDesign

Nice muffler / multiport ehxaust! But what is the rout from engine port to muffler input, which side is it on and what is its dia. Just full of questions aren't I! LOL


Ok let see now, since the muffler will be mounted on the engine's exhaust post and will be hidden inside the cowl it's diameter will obviously be less then 5"!

To fully answer your question, i will have to make a mock up of it to gather rough idea about the diementions/measurements what they will be but i can tell you that engine will be side mounted to the right and exhaust port will be facing the ground.

I have contacted one of the Canadian model muffler makers, they also said to make a mock up of what i want that will fit my specifications and send it to them, then they will do the rest.

(in reply to ByLoudDesign)
       Post #: 536

RE: Scratch building 105" W... - 7/12/2008 4:17:21 PM   
ByLoudDesign



Posts: 315
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Mesa, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		OK, I hop in it when I see the mock-up!

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bylouddesign.com "Scale without compromise"

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 537

RE: Scratch building 105" W/... - 7/12/2008 11:43:23 PM   
8178



Posts: 3017
Joined: 5/25/2004
From: _ , USA
Status: offline 		Dubro muffler.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


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Builder and flyer of high performance acrobatic R/C aircraft and a proud member of VR/CS.
Made in China = no sale!

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 538

RE: Scratch building 105" W... - 7/13/2008 12:12:36 AM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1277
Joined: 10/9/2002
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Why, when faced with a nice amount of space within the cowling would anyone want to use
a stack baffled plate muffler on a scale model? Not only would it sound like the rat motor it
is... ; ) it would totally detract from the scale appearance? Man that would ring true to the
old addage...Silk purse from a Sow's ear...?


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(in reply to 8178)
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RE: Scratch building 105" W... - 7/13/2008 5:29:20 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1482
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Slow Low

I think I would use a three piece epoxy glass approach.
For the first section, I would place the cowl nose-up in a large mound of clay and form a concave bowl around the natural seam line that you can see on the original part. I would use a marble to put a couple or three registration marks in the concave face, and then mould a ring section of the front of the nose. This will allow you to pull the front section off axially so that you can maintain a nice rounded edge, and not have to cut a perfect circle out of the front of each part later.
After that has cured I would remove the clay and do a two piece section for the remainder. I would build a clay cone to set the cowl onto first that filled in the back side and also those cut-outs for the exhaust. I would trim the exhaust cut-outs from the finished part by hand with a template.
The concave face on the ring will allow you to split the rear sections first when it's time to remove a part. Then you can tap on the flange of the forward ring to remove the part.
The cone on the bottom will give you lots of access room to get inside the mould from behind and will give you a nice line on the part to trim to in the end.



Hey Man,

I did discussed your approach with my friend today, he said "yes" it's do able with epoxy/gelcoat mould also but only down sides are no 1: Complexity of rear cowl area where exhaust ports are as i will need to make sure every time that mould release is in each nick and cranny or plug will stick to gelcoat and will damage. No: 2 is the durability of the moulds as to how long will they be usable.

He still thinks silicone route will be most productive route and will last very long time and i can cast as many parts as i want from them vs epoxy/gelcoat moulds.

So what do you have to say about his approach?



(in reply to Slow Low)