RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G  
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RE: Scratch building 105" ... - 7/24/2008 9:39:16 PM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1286
Joined: 10/9/2002
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Props4ever Hey Ed, ...wondering if your offer is still valid for the Flitemetal.
It'll be honor for me to use it on my model. Let me know and i'll send ya self addressed envelope
for it. Cheers, Sammy


Sammy...aka Timex : )

First of all the Flite-Metal required to properly cover the required portion of
your Connie will not fit into an envelope.

Those areas are:

Cowl lips (4)
After of cowl on nacelles(4)
Nose
Tail cone
Wing fillet (top & bottom)
Horiz stab fillet (top & bottom)
Wing tanks

I hope you have more documentation for your Connie than that coffee mug...


< Message edited by FliteMetal -- 7/24/2008 9:57:59 PM >


_____________________________

Ed Clayman
http://www.FliteMetal.com

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 576

RE: Scratch building 105" ... - 7/24/2008 10:01:49 PM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1498
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Well that mug is just to show that scheme as there is one photo of it on the net floating around so far. I do have some more stuff on that scheme not just the mug shot..he he

So two envelops would be enough i suppose...hehe, they will be in mail tonight actually upon your acceptance...



< Message edited by Props4ever -- 7/24/2008 10:02:51 PM >

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 577

RE: Scratch building 105"... - 7/24/2008 10:30:19 PM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1286
Joined: 10/9/2002
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Sammy:

Measure the surface area of:

Cowl lips (4)
Aft of cowl on nacelles skirts(4)top and (4) bottom
Cowl air inlets (4 x top and bottom inlets)


Nose cone

Tail cone

Tail fillets (top & bottom)

Wing fillet (top & bottom)


When you have all these measurements provide them to me. You should use construction
grade foil for all other areas on your Connie. I will provide you with the distributor with an
alloy which will be appropriate for doing this.

Please read the Flite-Metal application and finishing instructions which I will send to you as
an email attachment. They will be the actual instructions vs the abbreviated direction on our
web site.

After reading, let me know if you still desire to use Flite-Metal on your Connie and display
digital images of the process within this RCU thread, I will provide Flite-Metal for these areas
for the cost of shipping.

< Message edited by FliteMetal -- 7/25/2008 1:23:47 AM >


_____________________________

Ed Clayman
http://www.FliteMetal.com

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 578

RE: Scratch building 105"... - 7/25/2008 12:20:36 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1498
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Hey Timexsammy here,

Sound good and fair to me, i will get you the measurements of the areas you asked for and go from there, as i mentioned in my pm to you that i will not use wing tanks for this scheme, so being said that i will minus its measurements from rest of the areas.

Now another thing is, if you look at the picture of Aeroclassic TCA S Connie i posted, nacelles are painted aircraft gray and so is wing area behind them. Do you still want measurements of those too?, i mean Aeroclassic does top notch models and there documentation is best recognized in 400 scale diecast industry.

No problem with posting photos of the flitemetal application process on here, i'll gladly do that. You can also guide me as i do it. I will come up with a plan for the application and will follow it step by step. Waiting for your email now..

Cheers,
Timexsammy out...



< Message edited by Props4ever -- 7/25/2008 12:28:43 AM >

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 579

RE: Scratch building 105"... - 7/25/2008 1:00:35 AM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1286
Joined: 10/9/2002
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I need your email address sent to test@buyaero.com

And yes, all surfaces of your model should be covered
with aluminum then painted to look correct considering the
aluminum is applied to the balance and that would leave all
uncovered areas looking strange.

This is to say nothing for the fact you distress the nacelles so
the aluminum will show...though painted.

You can read our easy to follow directions, not having to be
coached in the application process which as with all applications
takes on the nature of the customer's mind's eye.

Gathering about you a lot of Connie photos will permit you to
easily replicate the surface details which appear all across the
aircraft top, bottom and sides.

< Message edited by FliteMetal -- 7/25/2008 1:25:46 AM >


_____________________________

Ed Clayman
http://www.FliteMetal.com

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 580

RE: Scratch building 105"... - 7/25/2008 2:09:49 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1498
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Ok, I hear ya..

Check your email inbox, you should be getting email soon.

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 581

RE: Scratch building 105"... - 7/25/2008 2:20:28 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1498
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Ed,

As for covering rest of my model with other type of aluminum covering, i am considering to use 3M Polyester covering that Carl uses on his models, it's nice and shiny and looks pretty good. The only draw back that he said about the material is, it doesn't stretch and doesn't goes around compound curves!, so figure i can use flitemetal on compound areas of the model and 3M stuff on rest of the model as per your suggestion of using construction grade or other type of foil on rest of the model.

Other options will be to use Bare Metal self adhesive foil that is made and is used by scale plastic modelers all the time. I don't know if could find it in bigger packages or not as it comes in small 6" x 6" square pieces or maybe bit bigger or use Alclad II polished aluminum paint but again it comes in small bottles only.


< Message edited by Props4ever -- 7/25/2008 3:02:05 AM >

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 582

RE: Scratch building 105"... - 7/25/2008 3:42:47 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1498
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Hey Ed,

I'm bit confused here, some of my pictures show that nacelles were painted same as the wing from LE to TE but then others show only wing being painted gray and nacelles are bare metal!...similar to Aeroclassic's model!.

Another thing i want to ask is about raised round head rivets on the nacelles, when could those be added in relation application of any sort of covering on nacelles?



Attachments
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< Message edited by Props4ever -- 7/25/2008 9:52:42 AM >

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 583

RE: Scratch building 105"... - 7/25/2008 3:53:04 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1498
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: offline
Hey James aka Slow Low,

What do you think of these products that Frank suggested to me to purchase for making the moulds of the cowl.

Gelcoat: 21-31
Polyester resin: 41-200
Fiberglass matt: 1oz x 2 yards
Hardner: MEKP
Mould release: PR Wax or Honey Wax

I will be purchasing these materials in day or two, if you think any other product could help or should be used then let me know.

Cheers,
TimexSammy...

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 584

RE: Scratch building 105"... - 7/25/2008 4:32:33 AM   
Slow Low



Posts: 189
Joined: 4/11/2007
From: St. Thomas, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Hey there Sammy,

These are my personal opinions and many others will argue that the products you have listed will work.
I would not use polyester fibreglass to make a mould.
It is likely to warp; if not while you are doing the layup because of exotherm, then as it ages. Residual stresses locked in the layup are also likely to damage your plug on removal and make it difficult to remove parts later if you do not carefully control the exotherm reaction.
The gelcoat will also not provide a durable surface for your tool, and you want to pull sets in multiples of four.
MEKP WILL give you and your family cancer.

I use only 100% pure carnauba wax, because I've tried everything else and I find it works best.
I use only epoxy resins.
I find the most suitable chemistries to be blended by Crosslink Technology in Toronto.
Tooling Epoxy Resin CLR1666 with Hardener CLH6027
Laminating Epoxy Resin CLR1625 with Hardener CLH6330
They are available through a distributor in Toronto, down by the airport. I can provide contact details by Private Message if you would like, but I am not here to sell anything.

(in reply to Props4ever)
       Post #: 585

RE: Scratch building 105"... - 7/25/2008 4:35:00 AM   
Slow Low



Posts: 189
Joined: 4/11/2007
From: St. Thomas, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		If you choose to use epoxies, then you cannot use chopped mat because it has binders in it which will react with the epoxy. You will have to use cloth or continuous strand mat.

(in reply to Slow Low)
       Post #: 586

RE: Scratch building 105"... - 7/25/2008 5:14:22 AM   
Props4ever


 

Posts: 1498
Joined: 8/3/2005
From: Canada, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Hey James,

Actually i did asked him about using cloth instead of mat but he said "since i'll be laying it to make the mold, mat is better and more stronger way to go for long run." Now i will ask him about strand mat and share what he says about it. As for using other products i mentioned earlier let see what suggestions and opinions other have on this. Since i still have couple days or even 4 days before we start on this, there is still time to consider product options. I think i know the store you are talking about, it called Composites Canada on Timberlea drive. I've been shopping from there for all the products i used so far on this project.

I will also ask Frank about epoxy tooling resin that you mentioned and it's hardener.

It's always good to get more ideas from different knowledgeable guys as it helps in making good decision in the end.

Attachments
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< Message edited by Props4ever -- 7/25/2008 5:49:09 AM >

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       Post #: 587

RE: Scratch building 105"... - 7/25/2008 5:23:48 AM   
Slow Low



Posts: 189
Joined: 4/11/2007
From: St. Thomas, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		I don't think you'll get the epoxies from Composites Canada, but they do have suitable cloth. I would back the surface coat up with 3/4oz cloth similar to what you use to cover your models. Then a layer of 1-1/2oz cloth. Then a layer of 1-1/2oz continous strand surface veil. Then I'd lay down 8-10 layers of 6-10oz cloth. There are 9 videos on this page here www.youtube.com/b1heqh54 where you can see typical layups using this schedule. Good luck.

(in reply to Props4ever)