Posts: 156
Joined: 4/20/2004 From: Sydney, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Ace, I have one of these on the Edge 540. No problems at all. I could never get the spring system to work properly and the ground handling was always troublesome. This works well and has never given me an problems
Posts: 12012
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
Make you a deal.
Before you go and do that let me post some tailwheel spring pictures tomorrow afternoon that may help a bunch of people out. It always works and does not leave you trying to stretch out springs to get them where you want them to go. RCBlimpro has another method that works well using "O" rings and perhaps we can con him into posting some of his pictures as well.
Fair enough?
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If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
Posts: 280
Joined: 8/31/2005 From: mich,
MI, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Silversurfer
Make you a deal.
Before you go and do that let me post some tailwheel spring pictures tomorrow afternoon that may help a bunch of people out. It always works and does not leave you trying to stretch out springs to get them where you want them to go. RCBlimpro has another method that works well using "O" rings and perhaps we can con him into posting some of his pictures as well.
Fair enough?
Works for me
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"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself" WW2 Ace
Posts: 12012
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
OK, let me do this the second time. I'd just finished it and was going to upload the pics when I dumb thumbed the keyboard and lost it all... Use the pictures as a loose guide to the end result and to better define my writing.
I've found that just about all the springs that come with tailwheel assemblies suck, so run on down to the local hardware or auto parts store a pick up a selection of springs in lengths that will be shorter that the finished length of the rudder to tailwheer wheel tiller. They don't have to be super strong, but they should not be really wimpy, either. It's a personal call thing. Make sure to obtain springs in matched pairs. A few differernt sizes lets you play with the installation a bit.
The choice of what you use to attach the springs to the rudder and tailwheel is another personal choice. I use left over flying wire when either end will be attached to something really sharp such as a metal tailwheel tiller, or if the angle is going to be a bit more than I would normally prefer. Other than those conditions I'll use either dacron or monofiliment fishing line. 60 to 100 pound test usually lasts a long time. No kite string here, you want it to hold together for more than one or two landings. Unless you will be using wire, a simple fishing type wrap and knot will do at all the connections.
Once you've decided on which spring you want to use, block or clamp the rudder and servo so they are both in "neutral". I prefer to work my way down from the rudder tiller by first attaching the line for the first side there. Then attach one end of the spring to the line with a short gap between the spring and the tiller. Now attach the spring to the tailwheel tiller in the same manner, but tension, or stretch, the spring a little bit. It does not need to be stretched a lot, but just enough so that it will never be completely slack with the servo, rudder, and tailwheel in the neutral position.
Now remove the clamp or block you had on the rudder. Yep, the rudder just pulled over to the side with the spring. No big deal. Now turn on the radio and let the rudder center itself up so you can start the remining side. Do everything the same as the first side, with the exception that when you attach the last end of the final spring you will be tensioning it enough to center the tailwheel under the rudder as close to correct as possible. Most tailwheels have some sort of method to adjust the center position of the tailwheel, so a minor adjustment may be needed. If your tailwheel does not have an adjustment, again it's no big deal. Just try to get the spring tensioned enough to get the tailwheel centered real close and the rudder will take care of any small offsets when the tailwheel is on the ground.
The end result should have the springs under tension at both sides when the rudder is centered. This prevents the tailwheel for free castering and making ground control difficult. Both springs should be under at least a little tension 100% of the time in any position for the most positive ground control. Needless to say, when the rudder is deflected one spring will be stretched more than the other. There is no need to concern yourself about battery drain or servo loads since the amount of load on the servo really is not that much. In checking this, mine usually come out at about a .02 to .04 milliamp load on the battery, but that also includes the load from the rudder itself. A few hundrends of a milliamp is not much at all.
< Message edited by Silversurfer -- 9/22/2006 1:33:33 AM >
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If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
Posts: 12012
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
No, I do not. The ones I was looking at are over in a thread on F/G and I forgot what the thread title was. It's pretty much the same principle with the rubber o-ring connected to both tillers with a string or line at either side and kept under a slight tension at neutrals.
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If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
Posts: 2980
Joined: 10/30/2004 From: Streator,
IL, USA Status: offline
I'm going to put Ralph's G62 this plane and was thinking about a tuned pipe. Anybody running one? Is there even room for a pipe instead of a can? Tom do you have headers and such?
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PROVERBS 15:22 - Plans go wrong for lack of advice; many counselors bring success.
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Joined: 10/30/2004 From: Streator,
IL, USA Status: offline
Plane came yesterday it looks great. I'm going to use a combo of 8611's and 8611a's and I need to know what size servo arms you guys are using for the elevators and ailerons. Anybody remember what sizes they used?
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PROVERBS 15:22 - Plans go wrong for lack of advice; many counselors bring success.
Posts: 280
Joined: 8/31/2005 From: mich,
MI, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: mrbigg
Thanks. Was just surfing the other thread on this plane and seen that you trimmed the elevator corners. Do you recommend that I do this also?
I also used 1.25" servo arms and a 3" straight rudder arm. My plane had the elevator corners trimmed when I got it. If you look at my photos in this thread you will see this (it can be seen in these photos http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4705534 ). I could move the surfaces bevel to bevel in all directions and not have anything touch. The latest planes do not require the modification as flatlandmike's did.
< Message edited by WW2 Ace -- 9/29/2006 1:48:52 AM >
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"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself" WW2 Ace
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RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Questions - 
