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RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Quest... - 10/1/2006 6:23:38 AM   
flyingohio



Posts: 143
Joined: 3/25/2004
From: Bucyrus, OH, USA
Status: offline 		I finally got my "new" 300 done yesterday. (I've had the dang thing for months) I used everything from my dead LX. DA50 w/Slimline pitts, Hitec QPCM rx, 5945's, 5955TG on rudder, AirWild control arms, Dubro control horns, Kavan 4" inflatable wheels, single 2400 li-ion on rx regulated to 5.4v, 1450 4.8v nimh on ignition, 2x Maxx Prod. charge switches, 16oz fuel tank, carbon wing and stab tubes. No wheel pants. It came out 16lb 1.4oz on my digital scale. That's a tick heavier than my LX was but the new one still has the stock landing gear on it plus a chunky 4oz Tru-Turn aluminum spinner, instead of carbon. If I replaced those w/carbon it would drop ~6ozs, but I'm not planning on it.

Can't wait to fly it. Overall I like this plane a lot better than the LX. Looks nicer, much more scale. The cowl mounting method is great, and the longer hatch is good. Control surface deflection is crazy. The pipe tunnel is a nice addition, and the laser cutting/build looks very precise. Finally, a plane with no rudder cable rubs on formers or exit slots! Hallelujia! A few nitpicks, it is a PITA to get the stab screws in, the fuselage x-bracing does not align with the canopy bracing and it makes installing radio equipment a bit of a squeeze for those of us with big clumsy hands. The landing gear needs to be made of better aluminum- mine bends just under the weight of the plane- I worry what my rough field and dumb thumbs will do to it!

Now- If the wind would just drop below 20mph...


(in reply to flatlandmike)
       Post #: 326

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Quest... - 10/1/2006 7:35:02 AM   
flatlandmike



Posts: 1162
Joined: 10/6/2003
From: lexington, KY, USA
Status: offline 		My landing gear is the same and prob later on will be replaced with carbon, but the gear holds up to a less than perf landing ( like letting a slip run to far and stall it 10 inches off the ground)as long as the wheels are pointed inwards i think its called toe-in. With this toes-in the role keeps the gear in the correct shape except if you pic it up by the tail and try to roll it backwards lol. I push the plane by the tail wheel now.

Edit; also dont expect to save more than an oz with the carbon gear though. This gear has a wide stance and to match it the carbon one will weigh near 9 oz whereas the oem gear weighs 9.5oz.

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www.jerseymodeler.com
Special thanx to The Crew Mike B. Jim Z. Ed J. Jim S.

(in reply to flyingohio)
       Post #: 327

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Quest... - 10/2/2006 2:59:14 AM   
flyingohio



Posts: 143
Joined: 3/25/2004
From: Bucyrus, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Adding toe-in, that's a good idea. I know what you are saying about rolling the plane around and it squatting down on the gear. I have some Graphtech gear that is about 3oz lighter but the stance is ~4" narrower, that wouldn't be good for my wingtips.

(in reply to flatlandmike)
       Post #: 328

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Quest... - 10/2/2006 4:56:33 PM   
WW2 Ace



Posts: 280
Joined: 8/31/2005
From: mich, MI, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: flatlandmike

TY, CGAV8R and WW2 Ace



Yes?? Did you have a question Mike?

_____________________________

"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself"
WW2 Ace

(in reply to flatlandmike)
       Post #: 329

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Ques... - 10/3/2006 1:52:49 AM   
mrbigg



Posts: 2981
Joined: 10/30/2004
From: Streator, IL, USA
Status: offline 		While we are on the subject of landing gear, let me say that this was the most pleasurable experience I've had with a plane. The holes are predrilled and everything lined up perfect. I was shocked that I didn't have to drill the holes.

_____________________________

PROVERBS 15:22 - Plans go wrong for lack of advice; many counselors bring success.

(in reply to WW2 Ace)
       Post #: 330

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Quest... - 10/3/2006 2:24:43 AM   
bluehawkbm


 

Posts: 94
Joined: 8/11/2004
From: Spruce Pine, NC, USA
Status: offline 		Well finally got mine ready to go. Hope to maiden her wednesday or at least by the weekend.

(in reply to flatlandmike)
       Post #: 331

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Ques... - 10/5/2006 3:54:28 AM   
sailing1


 

Posts: 290
Joined: 8/17/2004
From: tulsa, OK, USA
Status: offline 		I am using a bisson pitts style muffler on my Extra. Do I need to cover the pipe tunnel or just leave it open?

(in reply to bluehawkbm)
       Post #: 332

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Ques... - 10/5/2006 4:46:58 AM   
Tired Old Man


 

Posts: 12012
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Central, CA, USA
Status: offline 		You might want to put a piece of Ultracoat or some other covering over it. There's no need to use anything more solid.

_____________________________

If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

(in reply to sailing1)
       Post #: 333

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Ques... - 10/8/2006 3:39:50 PM   
sailing1


 

Posts: 290
Joined: 8/17/2004
From: tulsa, OK, USA
Status: offline 		My Bunny is warped and dented. Well the hatch and canopy anyway. I am finally getting time to finish the plane and when I got around to installing the hatch and canopy, the hatch has taken a warp just where the canopy touches the front deck. This results in the hatch not fitting flush with the rear of the fuse (after the front pins have been engaged). The gap is about 1/32 to 1/16 inch. As if it wan't insult enough, the canopy itself now has a dent in one side. I know the canopy was not this way when I installed it. I don't think the hatch was warped when I got it either. Do any of you have any suggestions on how to fix either of these problems or should I just contact Tom for new parts.

(in reply to Tired Old Man)
       Post #: 334

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Ques... - 10/8/2006 3:55:13 PM   
WW2 Ace



Posts: 280
Joined: 8/31/2005
From: mich, MI, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: sailing1

My Bunny is warped and dented. Well the hatch and canopy anyway. I am finally getting time to finish the plane and when I got around to installing the hatch and canopy, the hatch has taken a warp just where the canopy touches the front deck. This results in the hatch not fitting flush with the rear of the fuse (after the front pins have been engaged). The gap is about 1/32 to 1/16 inch. As if it wan't insult enough, the canopy itself now has a dent in one side. I know the canopy was not this way when I installed it. I don't think the hatch was warped when I got it either. Do any of you have any suggestions on how to fix either of these problems or should I just contact Tom for new parts.



If the dent in the canopy happened after it was attached to the hatch I would try to straighten the hatch and see if the dent pops out of the canopy. A 1/32 to 1/16 inch warp doesn't sound to bad but if you are set on correcting it, here's what I'd do. Take the assembly outside and with a rag wet down the wood of the hatch with ammonia until its well soaked. Now have someone hold one end of the hatch while you twist the other end in the opposite direction of the warp. While holding it in this position carefully dry the wood with a heat gun (be sure to keep the heat away from the canopy). when it is mostly dry release the pressure and check it on the fuse to see if it is straight. It may take a few attempts but this has worked for me to straighten twisted wood before. If it doesn't work then you may have to try a new one.
Good luck

_____________________________

"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself"
WW2 Ace

(in reply to sailing1)
       Post #: 335

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Ques... - 10/8/2006 5:27:25 PM   
sailing1


 

Posts: 290
Joined: 8/17/2004
From: tulsa, OK, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Ace. I taped the canopy on so can easily take it off. I will try your fix. I agree the 1/16 inch gap isn't much but it is at the very back of the hatch and makes the canopy stick up above the turttle deck and this is just too pretty a bird to have that problem. I had the same problem on a GP Patty Wagstaff but on that plane you expect stuff like that -- and who cares.

(in reply to WW2 Ace)
       Post #: 336

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Ques... - 10/8/2006 5:31:58 PM   
Tired Old Man


 

Posts: 12012
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Central, CA, USA
Status: offline 		The canopy frame can warp if the canopy is installed off of the plane if the canopy is installed crooked. Especially the rear hatch frame at the turtledeck. One solution is to carefully remove the canopy from the frame, clean off the old glue, and start over.

Use some sheets of wax paper and lay them over the hatch deck on the fuselage. Make sure they go up the back of the hatch to the top of the turtle deack. The wax paper is to prevent canopy glue from attaching the hatch tot he fuse. Let the wax paper extend an inch or more over the sides of the fuselage.

Install the hatch without the canopy and again mark where the canopy will sit on the hatch. Remove the canopy and lightly sand the inside to the canopy where it wll make contact with the hatch. Do the same on the covering inside the line for the canopy alignment. Remove the marks you made from the hatch frame.

Apply a thin bead of RC-56 to either the edge of the canopy or inside the alignment line on the hatch. Set the canopy down on the hatch and use a low tack tape to hold it in place as the glue dries. Wipe off any excess glue with a damp paper towel before it dries. The tape will have to be long enough to go past the wax paper and affix to the fuselage when pulled tightly over the canopy. Let dry and remove a perfectly aligned canopy and hatch.

_____________________________

If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

(in reply to WW2 Ace)
       Post #: 337

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Ques... - 10/9/2006 1:11:17 AM   
WW2 Ace



Posts: 280
Joined: 8/31/2005
From: mich, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Well I finally got mine in the air again today! First time since Labor day. The adjustments I made to the motor (Silversurfer's engine peaking method) and the change to the Bel-Ray H1R at 50:1 seem to have greatly improved the power and the throttle response. The engine transitioned very nicely! There is just the slightest gurgle in the midrange but I think that will improve after replacing the spark plug and a final tweak. I only got 3 flights in as it was a very nice day and the field was packed (50-70 fliers). I have two small flight issues to dial in.

1) The ailerons ended up/down about 3/32" for hands off. The lateral balance is right on and I was wondering if I add a bit of weight to the opposite side if that will reduce the amount of trim needed?
2) At half to 2/3 throttle she wants to climb after I finish a turn and when I cut the throttle on final it wants to nose up. The CG is set at 3-9/16" from the leading edge at the tips. It seems to be acting tail heavy. Could this be a down thrust issue?

On the last landing I had two guys talking at me and a turbine flier doing low fly-bys as I was landing and I pancaked the landing and bent the gear pretty bad and broke a prop. Boy was I ticked! I guess I not as good of a pilot when I'm distracted. Have you guys using Tom's fiberglass gear been happy with them? How tough are they compared to the stock gear? How do they compare verse the stock gear for weight?

< Message edited by WW2 Ace -- 10/13/2006 12:06:31 AM >

_____________________________

"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself"
WW2 Ace

(in reply to Tired Old Man)
       Post #: 338

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Ques... - 10/9/2006 12:50:08 PM   
sailing1


 

Posts: 290
Joined: 8/17/2004
From: tulsa, OK, USA
Status: offline 		I have my throttle linkage set up with a ball link at each end with non continuous threaded rod into each Dubro plastic link. Between that is a short length of carbon rod which has been JB welded to the rods. Is this setup ok to isolate the throttle from RF. I would normally use golden rod or a like product but the distance is so short that did not seem to be a workable choice.

(in reply to WW2 Ace)
       Post #: 339

RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Ques... - 10/10/2006 12:55:05 AM