Posts: 164
Joined: 9/3/2003 From: Franklin,
TN, USA Status: offline
Have the same issue with the Yak's also. I cracked mine today during turning on the runaway
Maybe the Yak wheelpants can be replaced by the Extra wheelpants assuming they are bigger than the Yaks (& match colors. minet are white ). Tom pls let me know if thats possible.
Posts: 280
Joined: 8/31/2005 From: mich,
MI, USA Status: offline
Well I made a good dent in finishing the tail section off today. To start I had to do a little work to determine where to drill the new holes in the control horns that go on the rudder tiller bolt. I discovered that the pilot hole wasn’t drilled perpendicular to the centerline of the plane. If I had just drilled the holes in the horns an even distance from the tiller bolt the right horn hole would have been 2mm rearward of the hinge line. This would have caused a bind in the rudder. I could have gone to the trouble of filling the hole, waiting for epoxy to dry and re-drilled the pilot hole but without a drill press I may have drilled it wrong again. What I did was lay a straight edge on the center line and a small straight edge perpendicular to it in the hinge line and marked both left & right horns for hole locations (see photos). This resulted in the right horn with a hole 2mm forward of the left horn (see photo), both holes centered exactly in line with the center of the hinge line. When I finished the pull-pull hookup the results were perfect. There is no loosening or tightening of the cables when the rudder is turned in both direction and there’s no binding. This seemed a better solution and took less time. It also hasn’t limited the throws, I still have ±61.0 degrees. Next up was mounting the elevator servos, control horns and push rods. I had to open the servo holes slightly for my 5945’s to fit. I used the Nelson hobby RCL70 control horns from my Edge. After hooking up my push rods and balancing the up & down servo throw (DOD method) I got the length roughed in. I’ll make a more precise measurement tomorrow and finish the push rods. I have to remember to go back and add some CA and maybe a bit more wood to the servo pockets for the ailerons & elevators. BTW did any of you add anything to stiffen the rudder tray? The balsa that you see on either side of the rudder servo in the photo below was added only to mark reference lines for the servo arm setup and they will be removed. I was thinking of adding a ply or hardwood cross brace. Does anyone think it's a good idea?
< Message edited by WW2 Ace -- 8/21/2006 5:55:23 AM >
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"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself" WW2 Ace
Posts: 280
Joined: 8/31/2005 From: mich,
MI, USA Status: offline
Did a little work tonight on the wings. I got the servos & control horns mounted (more Nelson hobby RCL70's) and the push rods rough cut. I still need to check some final measurements to get the final lengths. I know there are a few of you that have completed your planes, how about a few photos of the layout under the hatch !
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"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself" WW2 Ace
Posts: 280
Joined: 8/31/2005 From: mich,
MI, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Silversurfer
Where did you obtain that printed protractor?? I want a couple!! Too easy.
Here is the link http://www.hppilots.com/gpage30.html Ask for Roy. They are very nice for setting up servos especially for multi servo surface set-ups. I had a little to do with redesigning them. There were some earily versions that had some problems and a few of my suggestions were incorperated in the new ones. They have an adhesive backing and can be reused. You can also cut them to fit around horizontal stabilizer (see post 152 photos). I just got the redesigned ones in the mail about a week or so ago. I'll be giving Roy some feed back so they can be tweeked if needed.
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"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself" WW2 Ace
Posts: 280
Joined: 8/31/2005 From: mich,
MI, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: flatlandmike
here is how every thing ended up in my fuse for a cg at 3.5 inches back from the tips of the wing
the lump beside the fuel tank is the ignition battery and the rx battery is just inside the turtle deck
Thanks for the photo Mike. I got a few questions. 1) Is that your regulators between the receiver and the rudder servo? 2) Where did you end up putting your ignition module? 3) is your receiver battery 2 cells or 4 cells and how much does it weigh?
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"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself" WW2 Ace
Posts: 1162
Joined: 10/6/2003 From: lexington,
KY, USA Status: offline
my ign is same side as shauns on engine box but mounted vertically the batterys are 1 4800 4 cell 2s-2p 7.4 volts battery on rx 2400 on ign 6.6 oz and 3.3 oz those are the mpi reg switches you see mounted between the the rudder servo and rx tray mounted on a couple peices of wood i glued in .
Both the batterys are fromeco and can be seen on there site
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www.jerseymodeler.com Special thanx to The Crew Mike B. Jim Z. Ed J. Jim S.
Posts: 280
Joined: 8/31/2005 From: mich,
MI, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: murry
is that carb on backwards, or mine
The DA 50 carb can be flipped 180, if you do it just be sure NOT to flip the black reed block. That must stay in the same orientation. Instructions from DA were to apply blue Loc-Tite to the bolts then tighten them until the rubber gasket just slightly starts to squeeze out.
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"Learn from the mistakes of others, because you won't live long enough to make them all yourself" WW2 Ace
Posts: 290
Joined: 8/17/2004 From: tulsa,
OK, USA Status: offline
The build progress on my new Extra 300 has been a little slow. Nice weather has forced me to go fly my new Chip Hyde Tunnel Vision and man is that thing a hoot. It has aileron's bigger than the wings on most planes. I have been trying to get up enough nerve to do a hand launch from the vertical. Chip swears that I can just hold it by the canopy and apply about 1/2 throttle with on the OS 160 and hover it out of my hand-- this with a plane with 80 inch wing span -- Yea right. Guess there is a reason Chip is such a good pilot. Anyway, back on track, I have a concern about mounting the receiver. I have noticed a couple of photos where the antenna is run to a tube and ( I assume) internally toward the tail of the plane. I am using a Futaba 149 PCM receiver but have concerns about interference form the servos and or batteries which are in very close proximity in the pictures. I am setup for a pull-pull so the only wires running to the tail will be the elevator servos on both sides. I am using two 2800 TBM LiIon receiver batteries but don't know where they will be going yet. I know there is never a definitive answer to these questions, but is running the antenna through a tube in the middle of the plane OK or would I be better off it get the antenna as far away from all things electrical as possible?
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RE: Redesigned 28% Extra 300 Build / Questions - 
). Tom pls let me know if thats possible.
!
