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Close up of the MFU.
The two columns of white bi-pins are for the lights. There is a push button for Tx set-up and two trimmer dials.
The top trimmer dial(VR1) is for adjusting the dead band or channel 3. Channel 3 in standard mode triggers the long horn(up) and short horn(down). The trim on this channel is used to change to the hazard(up) and lights(down) mode. The trimmer dial is used if the horn sounds when the trim is moved to either max position. The trimmer dial is turned counter clockwise all the way and then slowly turned clockwise until the horn sound stop. The dead band is then set.
The second trimmer dial(VR2) is for the vibration unit. Turning it either way decreases or increases vibration.
The mini switch controls two different turn signal modes.
The servo leads from the MFU goto the Rx and the servos plug in directly above the leads.
Top left six pin is for the trailer light harness.
Other conections are speaker, control unit, vibration unit and coupler switch.
< Message edited by TamiyaExperienced -- 8/11/2006 11:45:43 PM >
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MFU is even easier with Digital Trims. Here's Willy's explanation on it http://mitglied.lycos.de/wloewer/Tanks/id79.htm He could explain it ten time than I ever could. The page uses Tamiya Tank DMD/MFU units as an example but the semi's are similar.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: secretsg
MFU is even easier with Digital Trims. Here's Willy's explanation on it http://mitglied.lycos.de/wloewer/Tanks/id79.htm He could explain it ten time than I ever could. The page uses Tamiya Tank DMD/MFU units as an example but the semi's are similar.
I see what you are saying, but with the rigs modes are turned on, used and then shut off. If you used this process and decided to honk the horn while you were driving with the trailer, the trailer would detach or lower the legs while in motion. That would be bad. That is why certain modes have to be shut off completely so that they are not accidentally activated.
I have never used a digital Rx system. If the trims could be switched by the push of a button, that would be much eaiser.
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The Knight Hauler is the only big rig that has a fully concealed control unit that has easy access and is protected. Tamiya designed this disguise to add even more scale feature to the Knight Hauler.
Here is a list of control unit locations on other rigs:
King Hauler: Passenger side tool box, fully exposed Globe Liner: Under body in back, facing forward Ford Aeromax: In fuel barrel facing down, fully exposed Merc-Benz 1838LS: In fuel barrel facing up, fully exposed Merc-Benz 1850L: In fuel barrel facing out, fully exposed Volvo Globetrotter: In uel barrel facing up, fully exposed
At the control unit you can turn on the rig(full functions).
The second switch controls static display with lights only or full drivability without sound, vibration or lights.
The first button controls the hazard lights at the panel.
The second button controls the use of the speed indicators on the roof lights. One light for first gear, two lights for second gear and three for third.
The third button controls the light functions at the panel.
Then you have the volume.
All these functions are controlled by the Tx as well aside from the speed indicators and volume.
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The old Bruiser actually let you fill up the tranny with oil (you need to seal the tranny from outside using silicon).. that was pretty interesting.. wonder why Tamiya did away with that.. I guess you can always do that by sealing up the tranny yourself...
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Quick shot of the speaker box and vibration unit.
Nothing special here and fairly straight forward. This box comes with the Knight Hauler kit. All the other rigs use the speaker box that comes with the MFU unit. It is half this size.
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So now that all the boring stuff is out of the way, lets attach the speaker box and MFU.
First we need to attach the mounting plate. This comes as part of the KH kit and is used mainly for the interior seats if you don't have the MFU. We do have the MFU, so the seats will stay on the tree.
The speaker box is mounted with four "L" brackets, you can see two of the four in the pic.
Note the three wiring harnesses from the control unit. There is a bit of forward thinking required here. All the wires must be tucked in neatly or pass through tight spots. Figuring this out before major components are installed will keep you from redoing things two or three times.
*I will note these wiring tips when possible.
< Message edited by TamiyaExperienced -- 8/13/2006 4:22:53 PM >
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I should also talk a bit about the integration of the accessories when building the tractor. The instructions are typical of Tamiya, although some areas lack adequate explination.
The integration of all the parts for the Motorized Legs can be confusing at times. One piece is replaced for another identical piece only to have a slight modification. Tamiya tries hard to make this easy, but I felt that they slacked in some areas.
For example: When parts are integrated, there is no information as to which screws, washers and small parts are re-used from the tractor kit and what is used from the accessory's kit. Some items that are not used are shaded, but still can be a bit confusing. The Motorized legs come with a lot of extra parts and it is easy to mistake one part for another.
Secondly, the manual for the Motorized Legs does not have a parts list for each step like most manuals do.
The next few steps will cover this area.
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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Electric On-Road vehicles, race cars and more >> RE: Knight Hauler and Box Trailer build thread 
RE: Knight Hauler and Box Trailer build thread - 
