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Florida runs a very tight ship for that reason. They say FL is the most difficult in terms of testing and licensing procedures in the country. Operating without a license in FL is a felony. I dont know why other states dont make similar laws. You dont want just any dummy building a house or even worse a multi story building.
I have to get my other big hare finished before I think about this one Just in time for some new engines as well.
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Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
I've got a similar problem with storage. I can only fit 4 or 5 large scale planes in the area I have. The addition of this one makes the need to let one go a reality. I just have to find the time to send my old Extra down to So. Cal since it has someone that wants to give it a home there.
Airborne,
I know how you feel about the testing stuff. I have a B and a C license here in California but I haven't used them in years. I'm with you on the licensing law thing. The lack of effective enforcement out here is one of the reasons I quit. Too much cheap, unskilled, unlicensed competition. Congratulations on the success of your efforts. One of the great things about working in Florida is that you're pretty much guaranteed good volumn due to hurricane season.
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If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
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Tailwheel Installation;
This one will have to be uploaded in a couple of parts, so patience please.
By now I think everyone knows that Wild Hare goes to great efforts to provide their customers with high quality products and the lowest possible prices. All the kits in the hanger come with a factory supplied tailwheel, as does the Sukhoi. It is the same tailwheel that was supplied with the 35% Giles, and works well. It a good, durable product, and in it's use on my Giles is still going strong without any hint of failing. However, it is a little on the heavy side, which is one of the reasons I used it on the Giles. I needed a little tail weight to help move the C/G aft.
A lighter option that some may want to consider is the RC Blimpro 40% titanium tailwheel. It is a perfect fit for this plane for those that want to go with the light stuff. I don't have a clue what any weights are but you notice the difference between the stock, comes with the kit, tailwheel and the RC Blimp unit instantly when you hold them. I'm posting some pictures of the two tailwheels for comparison purposes, along with the installation process. The first two pictures are of the stock tailwheel, the rest are the RC Blimp unit.
When you install the tail wheel, keep in mind that after it's in place the hinge tube for the rudder will be blocked from removal. Don't finalize the installation until you know that you don't need to remove the rudder again.
One item not on the rudder is a hard point to install a separate rod for tailwheel steering, and using the rod that controls the rudder is quite a bit too high for the tailwheel tiller bar to use effectively. It's really a non-issue since the bottom of the rudder appears to have been made using some type of light ply sheeting on the bottom front around the hinge tube opening. It will be extremely easy to fabricate something out of phenolic obtained at the local electronics store, shape it like a bellcrank and then attach to the bottom of the rudder. That will be one of those items to do when I get down to the stems and seeds.
< Message edited by Silversurfer -- 8/18/2006 8:09:29 AM >
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If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
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Engine Installation;
Lots of room on this one!! My 6.4 Brison is going to fit completely inside, no cowl cuts for the plug caps , and still have room to spare I like that!! Even better is without any baffeling at the moment you have the room to reach inside and fiddle with things as needed without having to remove the cowl.
IMPORTANT NOTE!! Should you elect to set the engine by having the fuse positioned standing to the vertical stab it is imperative that you protect the phenolic hinges from damage prior to standingthe fuse. Find a piece of styrofoam somewhere that is large and deep enough to have the center section hollowed out to fit over the hinges, while having enough size and mass remaining to support the weight of the fuse when it is rested on the tail.
I know that all of you will instantly recognise the situation as soon as you remove the rudder, but better safe than sorry. Once the hinge phenolics are broken off it will be a long and laborious process to repair them, and they have to be installed perfectly for the rudder not to bind. Better not to damage the hinges to begin with.
The fuselage is pretty long, and ends up quite a bit taller than I am, so standing the fuse on the tail and setting the engine can become quite a feat. Anyway, having never been an acrobat and being too old to be a contortionist, I elected to install the engine by working from the front of the cowl with the fuse sitting on the gear legs on the ground. Takes a little longer but I don't have to climb up and down a ladder or figure out what I can use to support the fuselage in a vertical position. And it's a lot more comfortable
The Brison 6.4 equipped with the insert that lets it run the CM-6 plug is 10-1/2" wide from plug electrode to plug electrode, +/- 1/8" or so. Even allowing for the normal offset associated with right thrust there is a minimum of 1/2" of clearance from the inside to the cowl to the plug at the closest side. When I originally measured the inside width of the cowl ,it was done off the plane and I came up with about 11-3/4". When the cowl is installed it measures 12" inside to inside, so I must have been applying enough pressure to the cowl to distort the shape a little the first time.
After finalizing the engine mounting locations and drilling the mounting holes it was time to see where the ignition would have to go to have enough wire length to make it to the plugs. This one was just too easy. The engine mounting box was designed with an open top and bottom, with a large round opening on each side. It didn't take very long to see that the ignition module would easily mount to the back side of the firewall to route the plug wires out of the sides to the plugs. The way it ends up is there is more than enough plug wire length to make it to the plugs, the wires will not rub on the cowl, the sensor wire connections are at an easy to connect separation distance, and the plug caps are completely clear of the cowl. Good design work, Tom.
Brison 6.4 Engine Note;
If you have, and plan to use, a Brison 6.4 twin for this plane, and also intend to use Bisson mufflers, you will need a 1/4" spacer between the muffler flanges and the cylinder to clear the engine box without making modifications to the box itself. Bisson manufactures and markets a 1/2" extension that will work just fine. About 1/2 ounce each. With the exception of the tips of the outlet tubes, both mufflers fit fully inside the cowl without cutting anything.
I hung a 5" fiberglass spinner on the nose to get an idea of what it would look like. After looking at some full scale Sukhoi picturs, it looks like a 5" spinner is the correct diameter, but an Extra type spinner is just a tad long for a true scale look. Details, details... It still looks pretty good, even in white.
I almost forgot, for those that will ask how long the standoffs will need to be for their engine, here's a sneak peek at the distance from the firewall to the face of the cowl: 7-9/16". Subtract the length of the engine from that, add 1/8" for prop clearance, and that will be the minimum standoff dimension. A little longer won't hurt a thing since you have a giant round opening up front.
< Message edited by Silversurfer -- 8/19/2006 10:35:29 PM >
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it would be nice to provide a template to make the engine installation easier,,like for a DA-100 or 3W 106,,,which I think are the engine most used out there,,,that should take care of the danger of braking the hinges.
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Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
You would have to raise the price of the kits enough to offset the purchase of all the engines that would fit, plus the time and labor involved for fitting each one. The time involved for fitting alone would probably delay the availability of the kit by a year or more. I don't even want to think about the cost.
Nice try, but better luck next time We're not quite at a full 100% plug and play level quite yet.
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If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
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all it is just for the 2 engine I mention,,,if someone else has different engines they would have to do it the old fashion way like you did with your brisson. If a whole plane cost $50 US dollars to make how can it get so much more expensive for 2 peaces of play with 4 holes in it!!!!
< Message edited by charrua -- 8/18/2006 1:04:16 AM >
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Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
quote:
charrua
If a whole plane cost $50 US dollars
I don't have a clue what they cost to make, but I would sure like to start buying them where you do!! That would be a heck of a deal. Yea, I know. I took that a little out of context.
_____________________________
If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
The covering material alone on this plane costs over $65 (that is when it's Ultracote). And the shipping from China of a full container is about $75 per plane for a plane this size. The boxing costs at least $20 per plane. So we're at $160 and we don't have a plane, just a big box full of Ultracote.
I also would like to know where I can buy planes for $50.
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic >> WildHare R/C Support >> RE: New Wild Hare Sukhoi ready to fly 
RE: New Wild Hare Sukhoi ready to fly - 
Just in time for some new engines as well.
My 6.4 
That would be a heck of a deal. Yea, I know. I took that a little out of context.
