Tired Old Man
Posts: 12012
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
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Elevator Installation; This post is a "Work in Progress" so more will be added as the day goes by. Pics later as usual. Thed first thing you will notice (other than how great it looks) when you take the plane out of the box is how far back the elevators look to be in comparison to, say the 35%Giles, all the 28% planes, and the Ultimate. Oh my! Ok, now we're over that, what are we going to do about wiring? You will need (2) extensions a minimum of 36" long, plus the lead that comes on the servo. That length depends entirely on where you locate your receiver, and could require a longer extension. They can be easily obtained in lengths up to about 48" If you use a Matchbox or similar to set up twin elevator servos, you can attach the Matchbox to one of the vertical posts on the side of the fuselage by the rudder tray and run the receiver connection up a little frther towrds the nose, letting a 36" be enough. If you place the receiver muct more than a couple of inches forward of the most aft opening for the rudder servo in the tray, then a longer extension will be needed. Unless you want to stand the plane on it's nose to fish the wires you will also need a long and reasonably stiff wire with a hook on the end to grab the extension and pull it forward after the extension enters the aft end of the fuselage. If you know anyone that installs T-Bar/Acoustic ceilings, they have the perfect tool just laying around in scrap 12ga. wire. The use of an extension brings up a couple of other points. One is the connector. You know, that one that can come apart in flight making for a real bad day? If you use a connector, be absolutely certain to secure the junction in such a manner that it cannot come apart!! There are many ways to do this, but the manner that you choose will determine if the extension can be later easily separated to remove the horizontal stab, or if you want to leave the wire and extension intact and just remove all of it when desired. Which segues to another point. I'm going to be the last one on the face of this earth to suggest that you cut a servo wire and splice in a longer extension by soldering the wires together and adding some shrink tubing. I absolutely won't suggest that. But---One of several nice things about a one piece long servo wire is that it cannot come apart. Plus is has a lower voltage loss without an extra pair of connectors, and the connections can't get dirty or corrode somewhere waaay back in the fuselage, and you have the opportunity to add a toroid noise filter to the wire when it's apart should you so desire. Remember that the more connectors you have in a wire, the possibility of issues increases exponentially with the number of connectors. You probably won't be able to get to the servo extension connection without detaching the wire from the receiver anyway. So if, all on your own and without any nudging by anyone, you decise to make up a one piece extension, get the 48" wires to allow for a little "working room". Just something to ponder before the time comes to get one of these for yourself. The bulkheads inside the fuselage are open enough to get your arm pretty deep into the back when you need to, plus they have cutouts in the bottom that are just perfect to run the servo leads through and secure in place. There's no need for a bunch of add on stuff to secure the wires. Just some tied up dental floss or careful application of wire ties. I prefer the dental floss since it has never cut one of my servo leads like wire ties have. That one time was real expensive, but mostly disturbing since the plane was destroyed. Radio Shack used to sell a product called a "Beaded Wire Tie" that positively won't ever cut a wire.
< Message edited by Silversurfer -- 8/19/2006 10:13:10 PM >
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If you can''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
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