Zete - thats a terrible model - it hasn't got a brushed motor, Nimh 8.4 batteries and doesn't handle like a bag of nails!!!! But I love it. The speed freaks on RCU say the MPX is better $ for $ than the Stryker in all-out speed 'cos the handling is better - I believe......
For other Swift owners who have a dead Swift or want fun (remember that??) take a Stryker body ($35?), make balsa fins and elevons, stick the stock brushed 480 into the rear of Stryker, add the elevons and a V-Tail mixer ($10) and a 1500 3S lipo - stir well, paint to taste, add the PZ/HZ RX and TX......then FLY. I did it and never looked back. (there might be a few extras like canopy etc but if anyone wants detailed info let me know).
tam popo For other Swift owners who have a dead Swift or want fun (remember that??) take a Stryker body ($35?), make balsa fins and elevons, stick the stock brushed 480 into the rear of Stryker, add the elevons and a V-Tail mixer ($10) and a 1500 3S lipo - stir well, paint to taste, add the PZ/HZ RX and TX......then FLY. I did it and never looked back. (there might be a few extras like canopy etc but if anyone wants detailed info let me know).
The bare Stryker fuselage PKZ1267 only costs $19. Foam fins PKZ1220 cost $8. Elevons w/control horns PKZ4233 only cost $4. Fin Retainers PKZ1221 $1.60. Clevis & Pushrods PKZ1218 $2.50. Motor Mount PKZ4234 $5. Complete Hatch Set PKZ4213 $8. Decal Sheet PKZ4203 $6.
What ESC/Rx do you recommend using and what brand/size prop works best with a 3S Lipo?
< Message edited by Swift427 -- 7/5/2008 6:17:36 PM >
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Never Give Up, Never Slow Down, Never Grow Old, and Never Ever Die Young
Swift - thats brilliant, you can now get a Stryker from all the Swift bits and its cheaper than I thought - I knew this hobby was getting cheaper, I'll tell my bank manager!! I just used the RX and Tx of the Swift to start with, just pull the "lipo bridge" (or whatever its called) and use a 3S lipo - see the instructions (on Web) of page 9 in Spitfire instructions for programming. And contrary to what some people think you can push a 3S thru the Swift ESC and motor - my 480 motor is still going strong!!!! Just ask the SCub guys
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Joined: 6/24/2008 From: Chattanooga, TN, USA Status: offline
ok, so I've got an extra F27c motor and esc. The motor doesn't just drop in so i've got to find a way to make sure it sits tight. This is going to be scary...hopefully fun while I wait on t-28 parts (motor mount)
Posts: 482
Joined: 3/15/2007 From: Minneapolis,
MN, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: notfamous I just ordered the F27c esc and motor for the swift but will probably buy a F27c body soon as well.
ok, so I've got an extra F27c motor and esc. The motor doesn't just drop in so i've got to find a way to make sure it sits tight. This is going to be scary...hopefully fun while I wait on t-28 parts (motor mount)
I am now putting the Stryker F27c motor and ESC in to see how it works for me. (see photos below for using tiewrap as suggested by aeajr-"I put a tiewrap around the motor to provide some support." Also works on AB3
quote:
ORIGINAL: The Mongrel I would not recommend this plane FULL STOP! It is CRAP! When you compare it to what else is available on the market, and the EASE in which they fly, (The CUB or BEAVER as an example), how could anyone recommend this pile of poop!
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ORIGINAL: DaxFX hi guys!! back from the dead!! I see that some of you still having problems !! well my Swift is a cool bird that still working exellent and I still having lot of fun with she !!
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ORIGINAL: DaxFX hey man I think a good condition motor propertly broke in have exellent power ! I am just on 7 cell and I can fly exellent now just like the hobbyzone vid. at begining I doubt on those vids claim to be all stock but after my wing replacement ! man my swift is a blast .. i got today 2, 8cell 600 mah batteries that i will try out tomorrow. here in Puerto Rico all morning are perfect to fly. I flew 8 days a week (on mornings ,, after 10:00 am just cant)
give a try to that motor you wont lose anithing just by try it. after all my frustration at begining with my swift I never surrender and now is one of my favorite park flyer from my collection (my Dynam Focus still #1)
quote:
ORIGINAL: DaxFX hello guys! its a wile without posting here! so from last time to today I have flew my SWIFT without any more problems! I ordered some 8 cell batteries 1400 mah and she is flying exellent , very satisfied with my swift. after all lost of hope at beggining and change main wing put on 8 cells is a blast I love it. and if it get damage anyhow i will buy another. i got exellent slope with swift and frome time to time some rolls and loops and basics aerobatics. is an exellent hybrid plane slope/stick pusher. with some kind of aerobatic capability !
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ORIGINAL: DaxFX look in the sky is superman,,,, no is a bird,, no is my SWIFT...... YEAH baby she flew perfect , some rolls, turn of the motor and she glide like a comet .. perfect landing by gliding down wow I start to love my swift again after 6 month without use ! everithing stock on tenergy 8 cell battery ! at full thrule she start climb a little without elevator (2 clicks on trim and perfect fast forward) , at half thrutle perfect leveled . just like she suppous to be . you can belive me the I forgot to check where was the CG but looks like is perfect balanced..
< Message edited by Swift427 -- 7/10/2008 5:31:03 PM >
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Posts: 23
Joined: 12/9/2007 From: Rochester,
NY, USA Status: offline
Hello, I was wondering if anyone has replaced the slide poteniometer on the Swift's ZX10 controller? I snapped the actuator off again, Doh! It happened once before shortly after I got it last year and Horizon replaced it under warranty but I can't quite claim that now. It is a single 3 pin 10K ohm linear poteniometer and I would like to find a replacement that fits in the PC board. Thanks.
Posts: 39
Joined: 7/13/2008 From: dunedin, NEW ZEALAND Status: offline
HI, I'm a newbie, and decided to buy an aerobird swift as my second plane, the first was a very simple twin engined glider very similier to the aerobird's. After my first and second flights ended while trying to land??? but atleast I was able to launch it and keep it up for a while, I decided to borrow a friends flight simulator "TWF Hobby EK2-0905A" Does anyone know where I can download a aerobird swift for this?? Thanks Reuben
Posts: 482
Joined: 3/15/2007 From: Minneapolis,
MN, USA Status: offline
The Swift is designed and marketed(Z3) for more experienced pilots. The uniqueness of the Swift can be very frustrating for a beginner. Odds are you'll receive more flying frustration than enjoyment plus the cost of replacing damaged parts and time spent making repairs and/or modifications.
You will have more enjoyment and less expense with a HZ Phantom or an EasyStar. If you have already purchased the Swift I would strongly recommend you return/exchange it and get the 3 channel HZ Phantom or the Aerobird 3 for your journey through the learning curve.
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Never Give Up, Never Slow Down, Never Grow Old, and Never Ever Die Young
Posts: 482
Joined: 3/15/2007 From: Minneapolis,
MN, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Fourtypluskid
Hello, I was wondering if anyone has replaced the slide poteniometer on the Swift's ZX10 controller? It is a single 3 pin 10K ohm linear poteniometer and I would like to find a replacement that fits in the PC board. Thanks.
There are seven soldering points (4 bracket & 3 electrical). I have a bad circuit board with a good slide pot. How do you suggest I melt/liquify all 7 solder points at one time so the slide pot can be removed. If you are that forceful with the pot then you need to resolder all 4 support posts. I won't cut off the four bracket posts (2 on each side).
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Never Give Up, Never Slow Down, Never Grow Old, and Never Ever Die Young
Posts: 23
Joined: 12/9/2007 From: Rochester,
NY, USA Status: offline
Swift, Thanks! To pull mine I used a "solder sucker" and a 25W iron with a wedge tip and was able to remove just about all the solder. I then got a small flat tip screw driver and worked it out from side to side by heating the pins to loosen the resisidual solder and gently prying and just move it out slowly. I can pull the throttle slder off the board and send you back the board if that's easier. The solder sucker is the key. If you don't have one and you do any component work on boards I highly recommend getting one.