Posts: 29
Joined: 3/26/2006 From: Franksville, WI, USA Status: offline
Thanks RFJ. I am having a minor problem getting servos mounted without the aileron servo / pushrods binding against the elevator/rudder pushrods... ARRRRRGGGHHHH!!!
That was a big problem in some of the older designs. You had three fuselage mounted servos and pushrods, an aileron servo and pushrods, two aileron horns and a wing bolt plate all wanting to occupy the same space! The best solution now is to use two small, powerful aileron servos inset about 1/3 out along each panel. These little beauties were just not available back then and, carefully installed, are hardly noticeable.
Posts: 29
Joined: 3/26/2006 From: Franksville, WI, USA Status: offline
RFJ, you are a wealth of information.
In all seriousness, I will re-think ever buying someone elses model again, or at least re-think doing that over the internet... The vertical tail was cracked (maybe due to shipping), so I peeled some covering off and CA'd it... No problem, but it was still really flimsy... The previous guy had NO WOOD TO WOOD JOINTS aft of the Horizonatal Stab... This meant the last half of the vertical stab was FLOATING... Man, I would never build that way... There was a couple of holes in the wing covering... Now trying to re-engineer the control system. What a PITA!
I really do enjoy building models, but I don't like fixing other peoples mistakes... And I have yet to ARF it...
Posts: 2308
Joined: 3/7/2003 From: A TREE,
KS, USA Status: offline
I have a KAOS 40 ARF with an old OS .46SF. I had a .60 kit version a few years ago and was going to build another one until I got the Tower ARF for $65. This is the updated red one and has to be one of the best flying planes around. I get a lot of pilots complimenting it but nobody really cares to own one, that is until they fly one.
I also have an US40 which is a little more sluggish then the KAOS, but both are fun to fly. Very predictable and we are not kidding when we say it will fly where you aim it.
I need to get building on another one since my current KAOS is nearing 5 years old and I fly it the most. Its expiration date is bound to come up soon.
Scott
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If you love that plane, set it free, if it doesn't return, you should've checked your battery.
Posts: 175
Joined: 7/29/2005 From: Yorktown,
VA, USA Status: offline
Guys,
I'm finishing up a tower kaos arf and I'm placing a TT 42 GP on it ... do you think it will have enough power? If not, I believe I'll put a performance pipe on it. I don't necessarily want it to scream, just have respectable speed.
Posts: 2308
Joined: 3/7/2003 From: A TREE,
KS, USA Status: offline
You should be fine with a .42. I've ran mine with a .40SF and didn't really notice much difference between it and the .46 when I ran a smaler prop. the .46 gives me a little more authority.
_____________________________
If you love that plane, set it free, if it doesn't return, you should've checked your battery.
Posts: 640
Joined: 5/17/2003 From: Orchard park,
NY, USA Status: offline
Stupid RCM plans! The leading edge of the rib templates is flat and the two dimensional views show a 3/8 square as the leading edge meaning a notched front edge for the ribs.
The only clue in the write-up is, "Glue the notched leading edge to the ribs."
Not that I can't muddle my way through this but wouldn't you think that while drawing the plans the guy would have looked from one side of the paper to the other. Then again if there were revisions to the plan wouldn't a reasonable person look for consistency with the remainder of the plan.
I remember the spars, LE, amd TE being notched. Below is a scan of the Super Kaos plans clearly showing a 45 degree LE. Be aware that this is NOT a cross-section thru a rib but rather a section thru the wing at the fuse side, thus no reason to show the hidden notch and flat face on the rib itself. Kapesh?
Late addition..reading the construction article it does mention gluing on the notched spars, LE, and notched TE.
WiNG: The RCM \~ing Jig is highly recommended to assemble the wing. (See the August 1967 issue of R/C Modeler Magazine Xerox copies of article available.) Using 1/4” steel rods in the holes in the ribs, this jig can give you a true wing in much less time and work than usual construction methods. If you do not use the RCM Wing Jig, use a flat building board and make up small jig blocks. Pin the blocks to the position shown on the plans. Glue the ribs to the spar with the landing gear notch in ribs No. 2 and No. 3 down. Do not glue in the false ribs or the 1/4” dowel. Glue the top spar into position. Glue the notched trailing edge to the ribs and pin to the jig blocks. Glue the notched leading edge to the ribs, let the glue dry before proceeding, then glue the front and rear sheeting in place (the leading edge of the front sheeting is tapered). It is recom mended that the forward sheeting be dampened with water Ofl the outside surface only. This will cause the sheeting to curl and conform to the rib
Hope this helps.
Dave Rigotti
< Message edited by rcguy! -- 11/4/2006 9:49:03 PM >
Posts: 253
Joined: 1/2/2003 From: Oakdale,
CT, USA Status: offline
Rainedave: Had to go up in the attic and pull open some plans and kits. The RCM plans for the Kaos, the RCM Trainer, the Super Kaos and the Dirty Birdy show the leading edge as 3/8sq or 1/2 sq set in notches in the ribs at a 45 degree angle. I have a dirty Birdy kit that I will check put I would think that it would match the RCM plans. Hope this clears up a little.
If you want to see a leading edge that is a little strange the Tiger Tail / Sweetater series from Ron Chidgey and Southern R/C kits just sheet around the leading edge with 1/16 balsa. No solid edge or any reinforcement at all.
Posts: 5190
Joined: 7/21/2005 From: Greensboro,
NC, USA Status: online
Ok, the Kaos plans I built from were not the RCM plans and are obviously different.
Here are the Sun Fli IV, Dirty Birdy and UFO LE methods. These are from the RCM plans.
It's interesting that he would switch from the vertical sheet LE on the Sun Fli to the 45 degree square LE for the Super Kaos, and then switch back to the vertical sheet LE for the two later designs.
The laminated LE using the sub LE as a shelf for the sheeting is a method I use and now I don't know where I picked it up. At any rate, I feel it's a superior method that results in a neater and stronger LE. It also makes getting a completely gapless seam where the sheeting meets the LE totally foolproof.
< Message edited by rainedave -- 11/27/2006 4:16:39 AM >
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RE: KAOS AND RELATED PLANES AND INFO - 
