(in reply to Rich404)

Hi Hydro,

Dude, please don’t think that anyone thinks that you are a ‘know it all’. I asked specific questions that I was unsure of and you provided great answers which helped me better understand on how to proceed on my next steps.  

So with the last few posts in mind in addition to recently reading the Robbe manual here is a recap on what I learned:

1)      Be careful on choosing wires because not all wires are created equal- I think that there is a great take away here because those that heed this precaution can end up scratching their heads when the system doesn’t work as planned. It’s a good idea to try to understand the type of wires used in the original application and try to match it with the same type of wire to avoid power loss.

2)      The 75 MHZ system requires the receiver wire to not only run outside the boat but the antenna needs to be able to get reception from all 360 degrees in order for it to be effective. The main concern here became the radar mast because I plan on making it all or mostly metal. As hydro suggested it would be a safer bet to construct it from plastic because the signal can then easily pass through the mast on all sides. Again, there are more great takeaways here!!

 

For me to stay consistent with the high quality materials, in addition to me being stubborn  I’m going to continue with my goal on building a metal mast, but in respect to keeping up with Hydro’s good advice I decided to add an independent platform with a fixed metal rod antenna that will come off the back of the mast light and extend even higher than the mast light.  This will assist by allowing the boat to receive signal from 360 degrees and the cable wire will link right up to the solid antenna. (This antenna was purchased from Tower Hobbies so it is legit) As a way to show responsibility I’m going to test the reception on dry land so I don’t pose any risk to the boat.

 

To Bill’s point about transmitters, the 75 MHZ and the 2.4 GHZ systems are two entirely different monsters. My 75 system requires the antenna to run outside the boat for optimum performance whereas the 2.4 system proves it doesn’t really matter. 

 Just last night I measured the length of my transmitter antenna on the Robbe F-14. I mentioned a couple of posts ago that it was the largest I’ve seen. Well, I took a measuring tape and measured it and this thing came in at 42” long!! It is some monster. Then when comparing it to Bill’s 2.4 unit that I personally used he has like a 2” antenna on it with awesome range. This shows that the technology is very different.

Another thing that I learned about the two systems is that the 2.4 unit is a great surface system but it is useless underwater where Subs are concerned. In this case the submarine guys all prefer a 75mhz system because it works well and penetrates underwater whereas the 2.4 bounces off water and is useless on subs. In the case of Dauntless, let’s hope it doesn’t try to show-off and  play submarine!

Shifting gears here, yesterday the other 4 rechargeable batteries came in for the Robbie F-14. I brought it home, installed them in the battery pack holder and plugged the charger into the TX. A couple hours later I flipped on the switch and the gauge quickly jumped to 100 percent. So I know that it registers there. The next step is rigging up the receiver and seeing if I can run another test, Once I see that it picks up a signal from the transmitter I will go ahead and start the wiring process.

Over the past couple of days I installed the software to the sound module on my computer. Man this thing is complicated!! I did find out however that the owner of the company did not load the bell and the air horn onto the module like he was supposed to. This really annoys me because I was very specific in my correspondence that I wanted him to have this unit pre-loaded and ready to go and he agreed to do it. So now the module only has the PT boat sounds and I have to get this guy to send me the other two sound clips and add them myself. I guess the only good takeaway here is that it forces me to learn the software part of this thing but I was looking for plug & play.

I did get to hear the PT boat sound on my computer and it does sound really cool. To wire up the module is again a bit complicated but after carefully reading the instructions I got it all to sink in.

-Rich.

 

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Hi Dauntlessfan..Yep it’s time to thin out the dormant hobbies and refuel the hobby account!

Hi Deepsky..Both the canopy frame and mast # 1 are shaping up really nicely!! I agree with Bill It’s probably best to set up the socket arrangement for the base.

Hi Tom..I totally agree with you, the old waterlines do need replacing.  I currently have the silicone water tubes’ waiting to go in but thanks for the offer!! The water lines are going to be done once the four exhaust outlets are installed on the transom. For now the old water tubes are in place so I don’t forget the tube sequence.  It was very cool of you to make such a generous offer!!  Once you get the Dauntless hull be sure to post some pictures of it. I can't wait to see you get started on it!

·         Wired port ESC to the receiver

·         Wired Starboard ESC to the receiver

·         Wired the rudder servo to the receiver

·         Wired the Robbe Multi Decoder to the receiver

All of these items except the Decoder had to be spliced and lengthened to get to the receiver. I used shrink tube and a soldering iron to reconnect the wires. It so happened that I had old (but good condition) RC receiver wire extensions that I was able to cut down and use for the connections. This should guarantee that the wires are exactly the same as what I was using because it is all RC hobby wiring. I used to have wiring that went the length of the boat before the ‘overhaul’.

While I was working on the receiver, the epoxy that held the metal cover to the receiver popped off. So as a fix I used some strong 3M double sided tape to do the job. I was pleasantly surprised on how well it worked. Afterwards I drilled through the panel brackets and into the bulkheads. Finally, I trimmed down the wood floor under the panel and I screwed the panel with the receiver secured to the bulkhead wall.

Next it was time to install the Robbe decoder and because I was so impressed with the 3M tape that I mounted the Robbe decoder in place with the 3M tape too. The Robbe decoder will be wired straight to the pwr distribution pnl and each bank of wiring for the lights will be wired straight into the decoder which will allow each room to work remotely.

 I’m still not out of the woods yet there’s still a lot more wiring to do.

Here are some pictures.

-Rich.

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Thanks Bill!! I really feel that progress is being made by installing the equipment and wiring it all up. Yesterday was the first time that I felt that completing this model is actually within reach and not just a vision or a goal. Soon I will flip a switch and see all of my hard work finally come to life.

That’s a really nice cradle. It has the old-salty boat yard looks that you would expect a Lobster boat to have. I’ve actually seen old wood boat cradles that were very similar to that one!! NICE!! I think the bottom paint on the cradle is a nice touch too! Before Dauntless is launched the bottom will be sanded and painted signal red. This is also going to cover the underwater intake work done last summer, take the shine out the bottom and the color is the same as what was in her big sister’s touch up inventory. Once the bottom is painted I’ll be sure to follow in your footsteps and splat some red paint on the cradle too. 

Today I’m going back to the auto part store to pick up the final two fuse holders.

-Rich.

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