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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/8/2012 5:17 PM   
Rich404



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Damn skippy!!…It felt really good!!! It was a humbling experience seeing the TX, ESC’s and motors all working together in this boat.
I invested heavily in the Robbe Decoders for the lighting system alone. I have to get it to work and if not I need to contact Harbor before they get to old.
Once the lights work then I will wire in the Sound module too. I need to make sure it works properly so I don’t get a song & dance from the suppliers not wanting to exchange them if there problems with any of the electronics. It was risky enough not testing the ESC’s or the transmitter in a timely manner.
The day when I can turn off the lights in the boat room and with a flick of a few switches watch the navigation and the lights and each room light up via remote control will be a glorious moment for me personally. This will be the moment when my dreams for this boat will be close to realized.
Folly is a good and a very capable tug! This is why she was chosen to be Dauntless’s official escort for the sea trials.
-Rich.
 


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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/8/2012 5:28 PM   
Sound Sailor


 

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Status: offline 		We need a tug with a water cannon though so she can spray a stream to celebrate the launch like the NYC fireboats.

Bill

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/8/2012 6:02 PM   
Rich404



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Sound Sailor

We need a tug with a water cannon though so she can spray a stream to celebrate the launch like the NYC fireboats.

Bill


We'll save that for the actual christening when all the details including the interior are done. I'm sure there has to be a few fireboats in the Empire State club with canons..We can fill the lines with red, white and blue food coloring for the official launch. Until then, Folly will be there to make sure Dauntless doesn't take unexpected naps on the middle of the lake. during sea trials..

-Rich.

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/8/2012 9:17 PM   
Sound Sailor


 

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Status: offline 		Well you better get a move on. I got something special coming for the occaision.

Bill

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/8/2012 9:58 PM   
Rich404



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Sound Sailor

Well you better get a move on. I got something special coming for the occaision.

Bill


It sounds great!! I cannot wait to see what you have in mind.. I have been burning the midnight oil on Dauntless so I think she will be done sooner than later...knock on wood! My goal is to have her completely wired and seaworthy before the summer and use the summer months to install and knock out many of the interior items.

I have a question for you being that you were so helpful in educating me with fuses.

I have the Robbe decoder and it takes in a voltage from 4.8-24V from the main and dispurses the input through each output plug. With this said, if I put 12V in then 12V comes out. I want to wire up  3V and 6V lights and a 12V radar motor through this thing. What do I need to do to decrease a 12V input into a 3 and 6V outlets for a specific lighting bank? I called Harbor and he thinks I need resistors.

I am clueless about this process can you (or anyone else here) fill me in on how this works and what I need?

Thanks.

-Rich.


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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/8/2012 10:13 PM   
Sound Sailor


 

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Status: offline 		Believe me it s cool and custom made.   You won't know though until the launching.  Carrot!  

I would also say you need resistors to step down voltage but I don't know what number of ohms for each required voltage. Never was good at Ohms Law. You will have to put them on each different voltage output needed.
I know nothing about this Robbe decoder but are you sure it doesn't do the stepping down of the voltage? Otherwise it is nothing but a terminal strip in disquise. I would put the 12v in and measure at the outputs with a voltmeter.
Bill

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/8/2012 10:30 PM   
Rich404



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Sound Sailor

Believe me it s cool and custom made.   You won't know though until the launching.  Carrot!  

I would also say you need resistors to step down voltage but I don't know what number of ohms for each required voltage. Never was good at Ohms Law. You will have to put them on each different voltage output needed.
I know nothing about this Robbe decoder but are you sure it doesn't do the stepping down of the voltage? Otherwise it is nothing but a terminal strip in disquise. I would put the 12v in and measure at the outputs with a voltmeter.
Bill


I can't wait to se what you have up your sleeve! 

I think you are right then, this unit is a very expensive terminal strip in disguise. Very well said...

I agree, each group of wires that come off the box needs to be stepped down before going to the designated bank of lights.

Does anyone else know how resistors work for this application?

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/9/2012 12:01 AM   
rblubaugh


 

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Status: offline 		Rich,

I know it can be done however:

1.  It is highly inefficient and generates HEAT, sometimes lots of heat.
2.  As the input voltage varies so does the output.  For light it probably would make little difference.
3.  It will/would be difficult to find resistors of the correct values to match current draw with voltage required
4.  This should have probably been #1, you need to know the current requirement of each voltage value to determine the resistor value in both resistance and power (wattage)

I can be done with resistors but . . .

Bob


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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/9/2012 12:06 AM   
Hydro Junkie


 

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Status: offline 		Forget about resistors Rich. A Reostat is what you need for each. This is nothing more than a variable resistor allowing you to "fine tune" your voltage and, indirectly, current as needed under load. You may find that the desired voltage will be too much or two little for the desired result

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/9/2012 12:25 AM   
Sound Sailor


 

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Status: offline 		If I understand what that decoder is, it allows you to control or switch more different things via your Xmtr like extra channels. If that is the purpose it seems that the ideal would be to use separate batteries for lights etc and use electronic switches that are available to switch them on rather than a single battery supply.  I doubt you have all the room to hide all that though. What you really need is a solid state circuit board that would do the job but it probably does not exist.
Bob is correct about the heat resistors would generate.

Bill

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/9/2012 3:18 PM   
Rich404



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Status: offline 		I think Hydro was right about the Rheostat. Here is a definition and a customer review on one. They sell them at RadioShack for $4.29 each. I would need 4 of them. Do you guys think that this would work?

rheostat (rē'əstăt'), device whose resistance to electric current depends on the position of some mechanical element or control in the device. Typically a rheostat consists of a resistance element equipped with two contacts, or terminals, by which it is attached to a circuit: a fixed contact at one end and a sliding contact that can be moved along the resistance element. Electric current enters and leaves the resistance element through the contacts. By moving the sliding contact toward or away from the fixed contact, the length of the resistance element through which the current travels can be decreased or increased. In this way the current through the circuit can be increased or decreased. Rheostats are widely used for such purposes as controlling the speed of electric motors and dimming electric lights, but they have been replaced in many applications by systems based on semiconductor devices that waste far less power. See potentiometer.
 
Comments about RadioShack 25-Ohm 3-Watt Rheostat:
I use this in-line with a model railroad power pack to fine-tune the train speed.
I've also used it with a portable, battery-powered railroad in-line with the 6-pole rotary switch to give me a wider range of speeds. The rotary switch taps into the battery pack at 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5 and 9 volt positions, with the rheostat giving me varying speeds at each position.
Used by itself with 9-volts, the 25 ohm rheostat only gives a range of very fast to too fast.
I just wish that the shaft and mounting threads were longer, as it is the thickest panel that you can mount it in is 1/4".
 


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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/9/2012 5:54 PM   
Hydro Junkie


 

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Status: offline 		You could also use a Potentiometer in a similar way by using two of the three contacts. I'm just wondering if a 25 ohm reo is going to be large enough? If you're planning on using it to reduce down your voltages from 12 volts, it may be too small of value to do the job but, then again, current draw will be a factor as well. One way to find out I guess

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/9/2012 6:39 PM   
dauntlessfan



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Status: offline 		Enough with the science fair talk, we want more pictures ! Just messin' with you guys!

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/9/2012 7:08 PM   
Rich404



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Status: offline 		So far I still like the idea of a Rheostat because I can adjust each one to the lowest setting and slide the switch to determine how bright or dim I want the lights to be in each respective lighting bank. From what I understand this works much like a dimmer switch and gives the lights or whatever less or more volts depending which way you slide and adjust the switch.

Is this correct? If so this can hopefully eliminate much of the complicated variables that requires spending even more $$ in tools that I don't have, and extra time and energy needed to figure out what will do the job. I think the Rheostat may be the best alternative if it works the way i'm thinking...

I want the light brightness to be scale so i'm looking to keep it a bit on the dim side anyway.  

What do you guys think?

-Rich.

< Message edited by Rich404 -- 5/9/2012 8:38 PM >

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/9/2012 10:29 PM   
Apismelifera



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Status: offline 		Please post detais about the lamps you're using.
Volts, amps, watts, and such for each type.

_____________________________

John KaBang

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/10/2012 7:22 PM   
Rich404



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Status: offline 		Hi Apismelifera,

Here is the stats from the lights:

Searchlight: 3V- 20mA

Owners cabin:  3V 20mA

Forecastle, main cabin and running lights: 6V 50mA

This is all I can find out about the lights. I called up MACK products to get info and he sells an automatic regulated control with heat sinks specifically for this purpose. He wants $21 for the unit but I would need four of them. It adds up way too quickly and am near the end of my line in sinking a boatload of cash into this yacht....  

Here is his unit for reference: http://www.mackproductsrc.com/L-26%20auto_control.htm

I just checked again and the output on his unit is 3.5V. It still doesn't address the 6 V lights that dominates this boat.

Any help would be grateful in helping me step down the voltage from 12V to 3 and 6V.

-Rich.

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/10/2012 9:24 PM   
deep sky


 

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Status: offline 		well here is the latest drilled 4 holes for boulth masts for the sockets rader mast still needs work helm not to bad. i was looking at pix of  the real dauntless and on the radar mast ther is a yard arm i think the radar was added to the mast later.

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/10/2012 9:41 PM   
Rich404



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Status: offline 		Hi DeepSky,

It's looking good! You are making great progress in excellent time! This might be a record here on the forum!

What color did you use to paint the ships wheel? It looks nice.

-Rich.





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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/10/2012 9:43 PM   
dauntlessfan



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Status: offline 		Looking good DeepSky! I'm sure you already know this but excess solder can be removed with an x-acto knife and then a wire brush on a Dremel smooths everything out to appear more like welds than solder bubbles.



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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/10/2012 9:49 PM   
deep sky


 

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Status: offline 		i used this stain for the helm and brushed the wheel with it

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/10/2012 9:49 PM   
Rich404



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Status: offline 		Hey DF...that's a good tip because I usually make a mess of solder....reminds me...I will be starting on the radar mast pretty soon...hmmmm maybe tonight soon... It will be a hybrid between the one you made and Bills...It should be fun.

How tall and wide did you make your mast so I have an idea for an approach..

Can you post some pics of your mast?

Thanks bud..

-Rich.

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/10/2012 9:51 PM   
Rich404



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Status: offline 		Very nice...the can looks ancient but it looks great on the ships wheel!!  

I just found it on Rockler.com...cool!

-Rich.

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/10/2012 9:57 PM   
deep sky


 

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Status: offline 		i like the stain its water clean up i use this then clear over it im planing on trying it for the decks when i get them planked

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/10/2012 9:59 PM   
deep sky


 

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Status: offline 		i almost forgot if you use this clean the wheel with something i dident ant it took a couple of coats to cover

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RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless - 5/10/2012 10:02 PM   
Rich404



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Status: offline 		Thanks Deepsky!

-Rich.

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