quote:

ORIGINAL: Malcolm H

Chad,

Thanks for the scoop (sorry couldn't resist it!) on the cooling. Why is the top of the baffle angled across the cowl rather than normal to the centre line? Is this to help promote rearward airflow?

Malcolm

quote:

ORIGINAL: can773

Hi Jim

Very interesting. How does the pole count of a motor fit into all of this?

I have spoken to Pletty a fair bit about temperature, they have little concern about taking can temperatures up near 80C. My personal experience shows that to not cause any noticable problems. Neodymium should deal with at least 100C from my understanding.

Hi Jim

Another thought, by lowering the kV you will in turn reduce the rpm that the motor will turn assuming voltage is constant, which in reality a 10A drop it wont appreciably change. So at lower rpm, the torque needed to turn the prop at that rpm is lower, so I am not seeing how you can keep a constant torque in your calculations.

quote:

ORIGINAL: DPappas_atwork

Hello Benoit,
I notice your clever ducting ... may I make a suggestion? The next improvement is to segregate the motor cooling path from that of the ESC and batteries.
I use a similar duct to deflect about 1 square-inch (6 square centimeters) of inlet into an airbox that surrounds the front of the motor. The airbox leads to a duct that fits tightly around the motor (3 mm gap) and forces air to flow both through the motor and close to the case. Air outlets take that hot out of the plane before the firewall (electron wall?)
The rest of the cool air inlet then cools the batteries. Cooler is always better for the motor, but not for the batteries. This allows me to partially block the battery inlet for flying in cold conditions. When flying at 5 ~ 7 C with pre-warmed batteries, I can still get 40C post flight temperatures.

later Friends,
Dean Pappas

quote:

ORIGINAL: can773

Here is the cooling,

I think its important to curve the scoop as smooth as possible, and to limit the flow area under the motor to help drive the air to the back.

Anyways give it a try

Let me know if you have any questions on the pictures.

quote:

ORIGINAL: can773

Sprink

Here is my exact setup in a 9Z WC2.

ATV - 120% Rate A, 110-120% Rate B (120 is full throttle I have found).

Throttle Trim setting (TRM menu) - 50% below mid point, reads +50 on my Tx.

Make sure you activate your throttle curve, the point values are as follows.

1 - 0
2 - 38
3 - 50
4 - 55
5 - 59
6 - 64
7 - 69
8 - 73
9 - 78
10 - 82
11 - 88
12 - 93
13 - 100

D button sets the Low which is set to 80%, the dial is set to a value of +75% (that is the value in the brackets)....corresponds to about 1.5 to the right side of zero on the dial. The dial is how I affect the brake strength. Activate a dial by going to VOL, then H for left dial. Set the dial value to negative. That will give less brake when turning clockwise and vice versa.

The brake strength can be affected by either throttle trim level or the dial, so play with them until you have a point on the dial at which you have a decent range of adjustment for your flying style.

If you want to get creative you could use the sub trim to offset the neutral point, that would flatten out the throttle curve a bit and give you some more resolution for the low end. I dont feel its needed though.

Let me know how it goes.