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RE: superskids - 9/16/2006 12:02:15 AM   
choppersrule


 

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From: Greenwood, IN, USA
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Psi,

Here's a better pic of the TX, below the Art-Tech label it reads , "E-FLY FM Digital Propotional Radio Control System".
I think I may have made an 'ERROR' on my first post of it.

Charcoaldabs:

Yes the deal with big barr is a done deal, I felt compelled with him, because he started the post.

Anywhoo, you will just love the CX. If you've never had a co-axil heli, they are a hoot. But like all new helis one gets, start off slow with it. Add bricks (?) oh, that's steps, one at a time.

You'll do great, I'm sure.

Dave / Choppersrule


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"Flying is learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss"

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RE: superskids - 9/16/2006 12:22:35 AM   
healthyfatboy


 

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From: Norman, OK, USA
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How is the HD battery tray compared to the V3 one?

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RE: superskids - 9/26/2006 2:16:59 AM   
dustin7837


 

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From: ALBERTA, AB, CANADA
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Just got a set of the V3 skids, and they are actually very nice

Fairly light, although certainly heavier than stock, the plastic is very flexible and the alum is very hard. The fins are plastic, painted up like CF, and are very flexible, so they shouldnt break.
The rubber ball that goes on the end of the tail pin is a nice touch too, but with the skids the pin is about 2/3" off the ground, whereas it was touching ground from stock. Might have actually been easier for learning without that pin touching. Should help with boom strikes on hard landings too.

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MORE POWER!!!

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RE: superskids - 9/26/2006 2:57:00 AM   
choppersrule


 

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Dustin,

Where did you get your V3 from, I have the V2, from helidirect.com, for my CP. But would like to get the V3 for the PRO?

Thanks,

Dave / Choppersrule

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RE: superskids - 9/26/2006 3:00:47 AM   
jm_obrien


 

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From: Pineville, LA, USA
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Choppersrule, this is where I got mine from for my Pro http://www.super-skids.com/.

Jon

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RE: superskids - 9/26/2006 3:04:57 AM   
choppersrule


 

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Jon,

Thanks for the quick reply.. I'll be ordering one tomorrow night. Us old guys have to go to bed early.

Thanks again,

Dave / Choppersrule

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RE: superskids - 9/26/2006 4:22:32 AM   
futura


 

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From: Mauldin, SC, USA
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I ordered my "super skids" two days after Helidirect first had them available. I posted the first review.

I still have the same kit. Nothing has broken that came with the kit. Lots and lots of crashing and hard landing.

really nice alternative to the stock setup. I particularly like the fact that the frame parts allow for using other LG....like Shogun or Trex truts...including after market units.

I flew for months with the stock motor with 9t pinion. I then went with the GWS direct drive (9 grams heavier) and it still flew very well with the stock motor. 18 min with a TP1320.

Like I said, I still have my original frame and now its all brushless and such. It still holds together and flexes when things get harsh.

Training a friend last Sunday morning, he got it around 10 feet and lost it....45 deg angle into the gym floor. Still in great shape. bent the mainshaft which I got straight still on the heli after removing both the head and swash. He was freakin so I had to fix it in front of him and fly so he could see it was OK.

If it had been stock cf rods, I would have been replacing them for sure.....and my friend (old planker who hadn't flown in 20 years) would have been insisting on paying....that would've sucked. It would have completely crapped on the fun he was having. As it turned out, he went that day and bought both a CX and BCP pro.

< Message edited by futura -- 9/26/2006 4:37:30 AM >

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RE: superskids - 9/26/2006 4:56:59 AM   
dustin7837


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: choppersrule

Dustin,

Where did you get your V3 from, I have the V2, from helidirect.com, for my CP. But would like to get the V3 for the PRO?

Thanks,

Dave / Choppersrule


yeah, www.super-skids.com

They shipped pretty fast. Like 9 days to Canada which is pretty good.
The alum rods git really tight in teh bottom of the gear, and at first I was afraid of bending them. Then I realized just how strong they are, because I was pushing pretty good, and they didnt even flex.

Also, the battery tray is just 2 plastic crossbars wtih hooks for elastics. The hooks make it easy to remove/replace elastics in like 2 seconds. But if you dont like that setup, the stock battery tray fits too.

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RE: superskids - 9/27/2006 12:47:30 AM   
choppersrule


 

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Dustin,

Thanks for the info on the V3 skids. And the tip that the stock battery tray fits.
That will be my next order. I like the looks and that they are extemely rugged.

Thanks again,

Dave / Choppersrule

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RE: superskids - 10/19/2006 9:05:24 PM   
60pitchat70power


 

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From: Victoria, BC, CANADA
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HI guys, just bought the superskids from helidirect, mounted them and a few other upgrades and now it doesn't fly .. hehehe .. ok, I"m not that much of a beginner (although I am a newbie) but I can add a bit more .. so, here's what I did .. I upgraded the skids, replaced the 10T motor with a 9T motor and also put on some wood (flat bottom) blades from helidirect (8 bucks version) .. and seriously, it barely lifts off the ground .. and if I increase pitch, logically, falls to the ground cuz of lack of power .. so, here's my thinking .. got rid of the 9T .. I had bought that cuz I was wanting to change to LIPOs, which I haven't yet .. so, back to 10T .. still not that good .. changed back to old landing skids .. nah, still not as quircky as it used to be .. good ol-CP, where are though??

so finally I changed back to an original flat bottom blade couple and, eventhough damaged (nicks at the end of the blades) it flew WAY better than the with the 8 buck set ..

so, now I suppose I should go back and put the superskids on .. eh? (yah, I'm Canadian) .. and try again?

I guess I found the culprit .. blades .. anybody else got a take on those??

Cheers,
60P

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RE: superskids - 10/19/2006 9:35:16 PM   
Psikelly



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If youre trying to hover with an 8 tooth pinion and using a battery other than an 11V lipo youre not gonna get too far off the ground, if at all. You wouldnt think that 1 tooth would have such a dramatic effect on your performance but it does. Just 1 tooth is enough to get you in the air or keep you grounded. You really do need an 11V battery to use an 8 tooth pinion.

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NO I did not just crash!! Im making it flop around on the ground like that on purpose. Its a new stunt.

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RE: superskids - 10/19/2006 11:50:11 PM   
choppersrule


 

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Darn you Psi, I wanted to say that...

PSI , is right, go with the lipos, you won't be sorry, plus you'll have many more options on 8, or 9 tooth pinion and blade combinations.
Below is a recommended blade, motor combination with lipos.

Happy hovering,

Dave / Choppersrule

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Main Motor, Pinion, Heat Sink, Battery and Main Blade Configurations

When using the recommended main motor, pinion, heat sink and battery configurations we have experienced very good main motor life (better than any other models in this class). We have main motors in stock and Aerobatic Enhancement Kit equipped models with more than 100 flights that continue to perform very well.

For those who may be experiencing premature main motor wear, it is likely the result of excessive current draw causing damage to the motor rather than brush wear. Excessive current draw can be the result of using the wrong main motor, pinion, heat sink and battery configurations, improper gear mesh or constant power on blade strikes and crashes (shock damage). For these reasons you MUST follow the power system configurations recommended to achieve expected motor life. These configurations are:

EFLH1110A - 370 Main Motor with 8-Tooth Pinion:

For use with 3-cell Li-Po packs and flat bottom main blades. This is the most efficient setup for long duration hovering and basic sport flying when using 3-cell Li-Po packs. Must use a heat sink (EFLH1132).

EFLH1110B - 370 Main Motor with 9-Tooth Pinion (Included with Aerobatic Enhancement Kit [EFLH1168]):

For use with 3-cell Li-Po packs and flat bottom main blades for hovering and sport flying, with less duration than when using the main motor with 8-tooth pinion. Also for use with 3-cell Li-Po packs and symmetrical main blades for sport flying and aerobatics. Must use a heat sink (EFLH1132, also included with Aerobatic Enhancement Kit).

We suggest 860–900mAh packs for all-out aerobatics with durations up to 15 minutes and 1200–1320mAh packs for basic aerobatics and longer durations up to 25 minutes or more.

EFLH1110C - 370 Main Motor with 10-Tooth Pinion (Included with the stock BCP heli right out of the box):

For use with 8-cell Ni-MH packs and flat bottom main blades for hovering and sport flying. This is the most efficient setup for long duration hovering and basic sport flying when using 8-cell Ni-MH packs. DO NOT USE THIS MOTOR AND 10-TOOTH PINION WITH 3-CELL LI-PO PACKS AS IT WILL DRAW EXCESSIVE CURRENT RESULTING IN SHORT MOTOR LIFE, EXCESSIVE RF NOISE POTENTIALLY CAUSING RADIO “GLITCHES” AND DAMAGE TO THE 4-IN-1 ON BRIEF BLADE STRIKES OR EVEN DURING FLIGHT. Use of a heat sink is optional (EFLH1132), though it can help to improve duration and motor life.

EFLH1110D - 370 Main Motor with 11-Tooth Pinion:

For use with 2-cell Li-Po packs and flat bottom main blades for hovering and sport flying. We suggest packs from 860–1320mAh. DO NOT USE THIS MOTOR AND 11-TOOTH PINION WITH 3-CELL LI-PO PACKS AS IT WILL DRAW EXCESSIVE CURRENT RESULTING IN SHORT MOTOR LIFE, EXCESSIVE RF NOISE POTENTIALLY CAUSING RADIO “GLITCHES” AND DAMAGE TO THE 4-IN-1 ON BRIEF BLADE STRIKES OR EVEN DURING FLIGHT. Use of a heat sink is optional (EFLH1132), though it can help to improve duration and motor life.

Also, we find it is best to allow the main motor to cool to near ambient temperature between flights.

Tail Motor

When using the recommended heat sink and battery configurations, we have experienced very good tail motor life (better than any other models in this class due to the use of a specifically designed N30 motor vs. N20). We have tail motors in stock and Aerobatic Enhancement Kit equipped models with more than 100 flights that continue to perform very well.

For those who may be experiencing premature tail motor wear, it is likely the result of excessive current draw causing damage to the motor rather than brush wear. Excessive current draw can be the result of using the wrong heat sink and battery configurations or constant power on blade strikes and crashes (shock damage). Vastly excessive amounts of gyro gain can also result in increased and excessive current draw. For these reasons you MUST follow the heat sink and battery configurations as well as gyro gain settings recommended in order to achieve expected motor life. These configurations are:

8-Cell, 9.6V Ni-MH Packs

When using 8-cell Ni-MH packs for power, use of a heat sink is optional (EFLH1131), though it can help to improve duration and motor life.

2-Cell, 7.4V Li-Po Packs

When using 2-cell Li-Po packs for power, use of a heat sink is optional (EFLH1131), though it can help to improve duration and motor life.

3-Cell, 11.1V Li-Po Packs

When using 3-cell Li-Po packs for power, use of a heat sink is required (EFLH1131, also included with the Aerobatic Enhancement Kit).

Also, we find it is best to allow the tail motor to cool to near ambient temperature between flights.



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"Flying is learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss"

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       Post #: 37

RE: superskids - 10/20/2006 12:52:19 AM   
HeliTB



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From: Fort Washington, MD, USA
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Well let me join in.

I have the Helidirect Superskids installed.
I installed the dual motor mod using the microheli dual tail mount.
I'm using a 11.1 1000mah Lipos and 9T 370 motor
Symmetrical Blades

Since the mod the heli won't lift :-(. Is the heli to heavy and I need to go brushless?

HELP !!!! I want to fly.....

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