Posts: 397
Joined: 1/12/2003 From: Springdale,
PA, USA Status: offline
Work continues on the door latch mechanism. The center photo shows the 3/32" OD brass tube installed in the door jam. Holes were drilled with the door mounted and clamped in the closed position. I made up a flexible 3/32" drill bit with 3/32" cable and 1/8" brass tube soldered together. The wire is 1/16" with a short 3/32" brass tube soldered near the end that slides in the 1/8" tube epoxied in door frame. Springs are provided on each end to hold the door closed in flight. My digital camera doesn't take the best close up photos so this the best I can do. Tony Hallo
Posts: 397
Joined: 1/12/2003 From: Springdale,
PA, USA Status: offline
Once the door was mounted, I could continue with the window frame. The top window will need completed before I can finish the door. The instructions tell you to make a template due to differences during construction and plan shrinkage. My was off quite a bit from the plan, if your building one of these planes, don't assume the plans are accurate. I used SeeTemp material for the template, if you haven't used this stuff before, it's worth a try. I decided to glue up the frame right on top of the template, mistake, I had to cut the frame loose and broke two glue joints in the process. After frame was removed I pinned all joints with 1/8" dowels and 3 hour epoxy, spruce on spruce glue joints are not my favorite joints. I hope this one doesn't break before the windows are installed. Tony Hallo
Posts: 248
Joined: 11/8/2002 From: Wexford,
PA, USA Status: offline
Tony,
Yes, like always, your builds are incredible! I just spent an hour reading and looking at the pictures. I can barley build a 60 sized plane in my "hobby shop", you must have the whole damm basement?
Posts: 397
Joined: 1/12/2003 From: Springdale,
PA, USA Status: offline
Well the door latch is about done. I had to cover the door before I could finish the linkage. This is the first time I've used Stits covering. The fabric is attached using Polytack, shrunk, then the perimeter is given a coat of Polybrush. When it's time, the weave will be filled with Polybrush via spray gun, then pinked tape, another coat of Polybrush, then Polyfill. For now I just wanted to get the fabric on to complete the linkage. To be honest this is the second plane I covered with fabric, I watched the Stits video about six times and everything worked as expected. The door latches are bent to scale profile, soldered in place, and inside of the door is finished off will balsa. The inside latch is functional also although once the windows are installed it will not accessible. I used 1/16" plywood in under the latch since it provides support the latch handle. The door took over an hour to cover with fabric, the Stits fabric shrinks well, I think I like it. Tony Hallo
< Message edited by Tony Hallo -- 12/14/2006 3:04:27 AM >
Posts: 397
Joined: 1/12/2003 From: Springdale,
PA, USA Status: offline
Cowl mounting time, the cowl was made by Aeroglass in Canada and is real nice piece. Steven does wonderful work. I build two Hurley Extras and got the glass from Steven, I have since purchased a third Extra cowl from him for my next project, a scratch build 33% Extra 200 (No typo). I was very please when I opened the cub cowl box and found the cowl was made by Aeroglass. The cowl is held in place with seven #0x 3/8" screws, better have a good supply of extras for ones that will dropped at the airfield! Five across the top and one in each corner on the bottom. I drilled my top holes to land right on top of the former I installed to keep gas and oil out of the inside of the cabin area. The instructions tell you to install lite ply at the bottom holes to help hold them it, I decided to install 1/4" hardwood dowels instead, my easier, faster and better.
Posts: 115
Joined: 2/21/2005 From: wakefield,
RI, USA Status: offline
wow, just don't cut it, amazing maybe.Very nice job,now I don't even want to post my 26 fs j-3,loland who said people don't build anymore.keep up the great work!!!
Posts: 397
Joined: 1/12/2003 From: Springdale,
PA, USA Status: offline
It's going to fill up most of a Suburban, the fuselage is about 93" long alone, but this plane is not my problem. I haven't started mine yet, probably next winter if in fact I decide to build it! Just might have a kit for sale! There's not much excitement building the second one. Tony Hallo
Posts: 397
Joined: 1/12/2003 From: Springdale,
PA, USA Status: offline
I decided to hide the charging jacks and switches inside the battery access door. The door on the full scale is located on top of the fuselage right behind the wing, I thought the door would be located on the side of the fuselage but couldn't find any photos on the net. Christian Sturm from www.supercubproject.com was kind enough to set the attached photo showing the correct location of the door. The www.supercubproject.com web site is wonderful source of information for detailing the Cub. Thanks Christian.
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RE: Balsa USA Super Cub Build - 
