RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread
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RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/2/2006 5:21:35 PM

kmw1

Posts: 49
Joined: 5/9/2006
From: Chicago, IL, USA
Status: offline

Thanks for the information - I already have the Duralite regs with HD switches but they don't come with charge/testing jacks built in so I need to use a seperate one through the fuse for testing on each battery

without removing the canopy.

Anyone make a single piece through the fuse with multiple testing jacks for multiple batteries? This way I need only one hole instead of two...

(in reply to xed)

Post #: 51

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/2/2006 5:40:44 PM

zope_pope

Posts: 1043
Joined: 1/19/2003
From: Aurora, CO, USA
Status: offline

I went "cheap" on the batteries, but was able to come out very very light. I Bought a 1950 mah Nimh 6v from NObs for the Rx and a 1400 Nimh 1400mah 6v for the ignition (also no bs pack) and got the dual leads out the 1950mah pack and dual switches one with a charge jack. This gave me the redundancy of dual switches (the most common failure in a radio system), and also allowed me to check the status of the batteries and increase the amount of current to the rx if the servos need them. I used a charge jack hd switch for the ignition as well so I can kill the engine directly if need be.

I also recommend using the Fiberoptic switch as it never fails to work, no ignition, no run... Also many have told stories of the guy with his 42% where the engine came loose and the throttle and choke servos were unable to kill the engine, causing the guy to hope to run out of fuel before the batteries died, or the engine fell off. This is not the situation I want to be in, so I just sucked it up and bought the 60 dollar switch, and I am completely happy with the safety, the convenience, and the ability to kill the engine without any servos. It also prevents interference from the ignition.

My whole battery/switch setup ended up only being like 12-13oz's, so for people on a budget, this would be a way to go. It also keeps things simple, easy to charge, and worry free. No extra points of failure such as regulators and such. Send Steve at Hangtimes.com an email, he'd be happy to help you setup your airplane. Hope this helps.

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(in reply to kmw1)

Post #: 52

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/3/2006 12:19:34 AM

reyn3545

Posts: 973
Joined: 7/1/2006
From: Alpharetta, GA, USA
Status: offline

Quick question... I received my 50cc Extra today, and all looks great, EXCEPT...

The cowl has several spots where it looks like the plastic bag it was shipped in dulled the shine on the paint. You can only see it at certain angles to the light, but the worst spot is right on the top of the cowl... is there anything I can do locally to fix that, or does it need to go back?

< Message edited by reyn3545 -- 11/3/2006 12:21:39 AM >

(in reply to xed)

Post #: 53

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/3/2006 1:03:11 AM

smarks

Posts: 269
Joined: 10/17/2005
From: Castle Rock, CO, USA
Status: offline

I use these on my ignition and Rx switches. Simple and light although require two holes, but not a big deal:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD665&P=7

(in reply to kmw1)

Post #: 54

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/3/2006 1:16:03 AM

Grelker

Posts: 193
Joined: 8/28/2004
From: Bellevue, WA, USA
Status: offline

I've finally found this thread and I'm down to setting throws and balancing. Waiting for AW to send me the pilot and dash panel

as for the kill switch, I believe it's required by AMA rules for gas engines.

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Jon N.

(in reply to kmw1)

Post #: 55

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/3/2006 1:24:11 AM

bodywerks

Posts: 3110
Joined: 12/10/2004
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: reyn3545

Quick question... I received my 50cc Extra today, and all looks great, EXCEPT...

The cowl has several spots where it looks like the plastic bag it was shipped in dulled the shine on the paint. You can only see it at certain angles to the light, but the worst spot is right on the top of the cowl... is there anything I can do locally to fix that, or does it need to go back?

Get some automotive polish from your local parts store or try some wax, like you are waxing your car. I doubt sending it back would be worth it. The other option would be to get a nice, big "Desert Aircraft" logo to stick over it (I assume you are using the DA?). Regardless, I have found that the more I worry about a plane looking perfect, the more likely it is to meet its demise sooner than expected.

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STRAIGHTEN UP AND FLY LIGHT!!!

(in reply to reyn3545)

Post #: 56

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/3/2006 1:28:13 AM

reyn3545

Posts: 973
Joined: 7/1/2006
From: Alpharetta, GA, USA
Status: offline

Yeah, you're right.. and the DA logo will cover it a bit... but its kinda like the new car.. until the first scratch!

I just hope the first scratch is a little one!

(in reply to bodywerks)

Post #: 57

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/3/2006 3:37:18 AM

zope_pope

Posts: 1043
Joined: 1/19/2003
From: Aurora, CO, USA
Status: offline

Dont worry too much about it. I dinged my rudder pretty bad before the first flight.

I have a low part in the ceiling with a sharp corner, and while moving the airplane around, I backed the rudder into it and made a nice notch.

I am over it, and I can't tell any difference in the way it flies. One of these days, i'll just get myself crazy about it and fix the damage. But the covering is so pretty!

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If you choose not to make a decision, you have still made a decision.

(in reply to reyn3545)

Post #: 58

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/3/2006 4:20:28 AM

lazy eight

Posts: 174
Joined: 1/11/2004
From: Freeland, MI, USA
Status: offline

reyn3545 I have the same thing on my Extra the landing gear and the cowl was as you discribed. The plastic bags where put on to soon after painting the parts and the paint was still gassing off the solvents while in the bag. No big deal. try using some rubbing compound used for clearcoat automotive paints you can buy it At Walmart. My Yak had the same thing plus some dirt in the paint. I rubbed it all out and it looks great. Just takes a little elbow grease. This build thread is really starting to take off. I have my Extra all done and will be putting it on the scales this weekend and hopefully flying it if the Michigan weather will allow me one more time to the field. Talking about the switches used I used the JR heavy duty switchs they work pretty good and cost vary little. They have the battey port on them as well. I,m a big fan of the NMH paks but have tryed the LION this time out and really like the light wieght they offer. Only 3.3 OZ per pak. The optical kill swtich is a real good idea and should be used. I didnt use them at first but do now. And the stand offs that come in the kit will work just dandy all you have to do is stack them till you get the 2.5" thats needed for the proper firewall to prop dim. Or use the DA stand offs as long as they are the right dim. 2.5". If you go 3" on the stand offs With the DA you will have to play with the batteys a little to get the Cg right. And your cowl to spinner will look a little tweaked but it will still fly ok but will play to the nose heavy side. I have found that after setting up these planes you will allways be moveing the CG back after you get use to the plane. So I would build on the factory Cg starting point or just aft of it to start with. And one more thing in my long winded post.WWW.BadBradGraphics.com if your out there I will be shooting some pics of the plane outside for you this weekend. Thanks buddy for your great art work the ship looks MITY FINE IMO and hopefuly others as well.

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< Message edited by lazy eight -- 11/3/2006 4:52:16 AM >

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JDP

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Post #: 59

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/3/2006 5:10:04 AM

zope_pope

Posts: 1043
Joined: 1/19/2003
From: Aurora, CO, USA
Status: offline

Can't wait to hear how you like it. I absolutely love mine and cant wait to get flying this weekend. Let us know what she is on the scale. Those aluminum standoffs would probably work on the DA, but those things are wicked heavy. I'd just go out and get the 2.5" standoffs. It seems to be more hassle than its worth.

Also, any benefit in trimming the pipe of the stock muffler? I left mine at normal length, but noticed yours is quite a bit shorter.

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If you choose not to make a decision, you have still made a decision.

(in reply to lazy eight)

Post #: 60

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/3/2006 5:31:35 AM

bodywerks

Posts: 3110
Joined: 12/10/2004
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Status: offline

Man, it really is a sexy looking plane, isn't it?

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STRAIGHTEN UP AND FLY LIGHT!!!

(in reply to lazy eight)

Post #: 61

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/3/2006 12:12:11 PM

reyn3545

Posts: 973
Joined: 7/1/2006
From: Alpharetta, GA, USA
Status: offline

Lazy Eight. thanks for the info.. I'll give the polishing a try. I also went to badbradgraphics earlier this week. After looking at the standard graphics, I'm glad I did. I think it would take forever to get those down right.

Now I need to buy all the servos and electronics. I'm relying heavy on this build thread, and look foward to geting this thing in the air sometime after Thanksgiving... I've got a lot of weekend travel plans between now and then, so little time for building/flying. Thanks to everyone for the posts and info, I'll post pics as I build also.

(in reply to bodywerks)

Post #: 62

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/3/2006 1:25:07 PM

reyn3545

Posts: 973
Joined: 7/1/2006
From: Alpharetta, GA, USA
Status: offline

Hey - the scratch remover did the trick! 30 seconds worth of polishing, a new coat of wax, and its good as new! What would we do without the Internet? Thanks, Al Gore!

(in reply to reyn3545)

Post #: 63

RE: 50cc QB 260 build thread - 11/3/2006 2:17:56 PM