RE: STS Engines

RE: STS Engines
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RE: STS Engines - 8/17/2007 9:44:03 PM

ntloser

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From: Pompano Beach, USA
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I see the notch faces the front of the motor. And I think the C-Clip is supposed to be compressed and put inside the small hole in the piston to keep the small rod from coming out or moving? Is this right? Any tips on compressing the C-clip.. actually it looks more like the letter G.

Does the connecting rod have to face a certain way?

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Post #: 701

RE: STS Engines - 8/18/2007 1:08:04 AM

ntloser

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I figured it out. What a pain in the ass. I got everything back together. But I think I am missing a shim. Do I need a shim?

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Post #: 702

RE: STS Engines - 8/18/2007 1:09:16 AM

rcnitrohead

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From: Brooklyn, NY, USA
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I just wanted to chip in

I finally got around to breaking in my STS .30

Started within one second on the roto starter, no problems with that.. Always idles reliably when warm, right now I'm up to 3/4's gallon, would have done more but it started raining.

I did 5, 3 minute heat cycles and then switched to 3, 5 minute cycles. After that Ive been driving pig rich 5-10mph. Has a thick trail of smoke, a little bit of oil sprays out and it takes 1/3 throttle to get the truck moving. Just installed FLM plates tonight with my Carbon Fiber hinge pins. I switched it to 2WD for dragracing this sunday and removed the rollbar. I cant get the engine to fit in there with 19/49 gearing so I will need to grind away about 0.5mm-1.00mm of the side of the plate where the engine comes into contact. Other than that, install was smooth and painless, planning to fix the plates tommorow and then start leaning out a bit by 1.2 gallons. Still need to run about 6 tanks until I can lean it a bit. Hopefully if I have the time, I will try to run 1.5 gallons through tommorow so the engine can be fully ready to race without any problems on sunday

I need to remember to shim it

Thanks for reading my rambling, but I am glad that I purchased this engine, no problems at all. Sure break in was a bit long (Approx 2-4hrs depending how rich). Fuel consumption for now is about 6 min per tank, but thats fine since its quite rich

Tom.

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Post #: 703

RE: STS Engines - 8/18/2007 5:32:02 AM

Rexzilla

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From: Perth, AUSTRALIA
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Dont let it run too rich, if the engine block is too cold you are just creating wear on the piston as the piston will expand quicker tham the sleeve/block will, the engine needs to be over 100C when running in, I ran mine around the 120C mark, this was recomended by one of the best engine modders in Australia Mark @ Massive Mods

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Savy STS30, 3 speed, Twisted Toys 1.5" ext TVP's, LST Shock Conv, Rexzilla Roll Bar, 40 series Rims and Tyres

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Post #: 704

RE: STS Engines - 8/18/2007 5:52:42 AM

ntloser

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From: Pompano Beach, USA
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I am sure some of you guys have done it in your sleep but this is my first engine rebuild so I am posting a pic.

I just got to get a shim and I can put the head on. Then seal the needles and get some goo to help seal any possible leaks around the o-rings.

So is the shim needed?

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Post #: 705

RE: STS Engines - 8/18/2007 6:25:31 AM

Rexzilla

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Joined: 7/23/2006
From: Perth, AUSTRALIA
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Are you talking about the one on the head button???

If so what ones do you have in it now, couldn't see it being a huge problem if your missing only one!!

< Message edited by Rexzilla -- 8/18/2007 6:26:34 AM >

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Post #: 706

RE: STS Engines - 8/18/2007 6:35:17 AM

46u

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From: Macon, GA, USA
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What shims you run has to do with what percentage nitro fuel you run and this is all explained in the instructions. You should run all 3 shims till you beak in the new piston and sleeve then shim as needed!
Here is the manual.
http://www.stsmicroengines.com/docs/d30m-manual.pdf

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Post #: 707

RE: STS Engines - 8/18/2007 6:37:01 AM

ntloser

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From: Pompano Beach, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Rexzilla

Are you talking about the one on the head button???

If so what ones do you have in it now, couldn't see it being a huge problem if your missing only one!!

Thanks for the reply

Yeah, I am talking about the shim that goes between the motor on the head button. I was about to put the head button on when I realized the manual showed a shim(s) should be in between the button and motor.

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Post #: 708

RE: STS Engines - 8/18/2007 6:41:53 AM

ntloser

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From: Pompano Beach, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: 46u

What shims you run has to do with what percentage nitro fuel you run and this is all explained in the instructions. You should run all 3 shims till you beak in the new piston and sleeve then shim as needed!
Here is the manual.
http://www.stsmicroengines.com/docs/d30m-manual.pdf

Thanks, I had the manual but I didn't notice anything about the shims. Until I re-read it. Right at the end it talks about the shims. Damn, another question that could have been answered had I RTFM a little closer. I am gonna have to order some shims. 4.6u, Do you run %30 in yours?

< Message edited by ntloser -- 8/18/2007 6:43:16 AM >

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Post #: 709

RE: STS Engines - 8/18/2007 7:13:48 AM

46u

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I run 30% in my 21 STS engines for my buggy but my STS 28 in my Savage I run 20%. Right now I just bash my Savage and race my buggy. Might try 30% in my Savage one day. I have and will again race my Savage but stay so busy racing my buggy have little time for my other RC vehicles.

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Post #: 710

RE: STS Engines - 8/18/2007 7:27:48 PM

SAVAGEJIM

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46u, you will not be disappointed with running 30% in your Savage. I run 30% in my daily basher with the D30M mounted in it, and I notice a considerably steadier temp reading and also a little more performance without any loss in tunability.

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Post #: 711

RE: STS Engines - 8/18/2007 8:23:28 PM

46u

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More then likely I will try 30% after I burn up the 2 gallons of 20% I have as I get 30% from my sponsor.

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Post #: 712

RE: STS Engines - 8/19/2007 5:53:00 AM

G*Man

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From: Chilliwack, BC, CANADA
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I finally read this whole thread , all 36 pages!

Anyways I have a fresh STS 28 3 Port and some questions.

Ill begin by saying, Ive tefloned the LSN, sealed the carb and backplate.

The needles presets were way too rich from the factory.

Im about a 1/4 gallon tru it so far and I progessively messed with the needles to ge the temps up above 200, but now Im chasing the tune/temps.

I need some baseline settings for the needles.

After chasing a driveable tune and trying to keep temps in range I found my needls as follows. HSN 1.5 out and LSN 6.5 out.

Obviously explains my poor tune so...

Ive reset at 2.25 out on HSN and 6.75 out on LSN, comment and suggestions appriciated.

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Post #: 713

RE: STS Engines - 8/19/2007 8:17:17 AM

SAVAGEJIM

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Go with what your needles are set at now. Run your engine amd lean to its best running condition from where your needles are at. No need to go back to factory setting, just tune now to make the engine run as it was before you did all the sealing.

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