RE: STS Engines

RE: STS Engines
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RE: STS Engines - 1/7/2007 12:22:04 PM

linkadrip

Posts: 1356
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From: Tehachapi, CA, USA
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No not going to use 15% i will just break it in with 20% then goto 30%. i run 30% in all my other nitro engines and they run fine. Not going to meess with low Nitro except for my Saito but its a 4 stroke toatally Different.

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Post #: 76

RE: STS Engines - 1/7/2007 8:33:06 PM

46u

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From: Macon, GA, USA
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I broke mine in and run 20%. If you do some checking you will see a lot of engine manufactures recommend 18% oil content as this goes back to before they had all the much better lubricants they have now. I do not know much about airplane engines but do know they run at about 1/3 to ½ the RPM of a truck or car engine. I have about 2 gallons of fuel run through my STS and it is still running great as well as other big blocks with many gallons throw them with %12 or lower oil content. Here is some information off O’Donnell web site pay attention to the part that says provides protection equivalent to 18% oil content.

Specially formulated fuel blend for competition radio controlled, glow powered cars and trucks. O’Donnell Racing fuel contains an advanced lubricant package which provides engine protection equivalent to that of conventional lubricants that have an 18% lubricant content. This optimizes performance and maximizes engine life.

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Post #: 77

RE: STS Engines - 1/7/2007 8:38:21 PM

Revo Eater

Posts: 968
Joined: 7/15/2005
From: Follansbee, WV, USA
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Been running Odonells in my STS .28 for 5 gallons now. Flawless.

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Post #: 78

RE: STS Engines - 1/8/2007 1:58:23 AM

joeseif

Posts: 373
Joined: 8/28/2006
From: Perkasie, PA, USA
Status: offline

i am breaking mine in with 20%n 12% oil. does anyone know what the factory setting should be for the needles once the engine is broken in?

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Post #: 79

RE: STS Engines - 1/8/2007 2:05:19 AM

46u

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From: Macon, GA, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: joeseif

i am breaking mine in with 20%n 12% oil. does anyone know what the factory setting should be for the needles once the engine is broken in?

Not sure I understand what you are saying as there is no set rule for needle setting once broke in. You set them just like any other engine where it performs properly and does not over heart.

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Post #: 80

RE: STS Engines - 1/8/2007 2:09:32 AM

joeseif

Posts: 373
Joined: 8/28/2006
From: Perkasie, PA, USA
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yeah but some engine instruction call out factory seting like 2-1/2 turns out, which make a good starting point. where do you have yours set to?

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Post #: 81

RE: STS Engines - 1/8/2007 2:23:50 AM

46u

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From: Macon, GA, USA
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Sorry misunderstood you as you said [does anyone know what the factory setting should be for the needles once the engine is broken in?]

OK now we got that straight HSN 3 ½ LSN 4 ½ this will be close enough to start with.

< Message edited by 46u -- 1/8/2007 2:24:32 AM >

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Post #: 82

RE: STS Engines - 1/8/2007 2:34:25 AM

joeseif

Posts: 373
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From: Perkasie, PA, USA
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thanks!

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Post #: 83

RE: STS Engines - 1/9/2007 4:01:03 AM

NITRO FUMES RULE

Posts: 224
Joined: 11/1/2006
From: PHOENIX, AZ, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: TopSpeedToys

quote:

ORIGINAL: bam.bam

Mark, in your opinion, what do you think the difference from th 28 and 30 other an the porting and cubic size?

Physically they are identical and I personally have not run both of them. I would say with 5 ports on the 30 it should
outperform the 28 (3 port) in top end and should have enough grunt on the low end.

Would anybody agree?

I totally agree. The STS D30M has more top end than the 28. The dyno test in Xtreme RC Cars Dec.
06 issue bears this out. It does not rev like a typical "big block" and has longer legs. It does not
fall flat after midrange rpm's but continues to scream well into the upper rpm range. People that
have had issues with the D30M saying they don't perform well in the upper power range probably
did not break in their engines properly. They need at least a gallon run thru them before they are
close to being broken in. At about 3/4 of a gallon you should remove a couple of head shims as
there are three from the factory to lower compression to aid in break in. The dyno test was
conducted with all head shims in place. The HP numbers would have been higher if these guys
at Xtreme had removed two shims. After a slow and proper/don't rush, run in period, two shims
removed this engine it turns into a wild animal. One way to tell if your engine is totally broke
in is to turn the flywheel to put the piston at TDC. If the piston sticks at TDC you need additional
break in. If the flywheel falls to either side of TDC and the piston does not stick there your engine
is pretty well broke in.

If you are not smelling nitro fumes and listening to the sweet song your not LIVING !!

(in reply to TopSpeedToys)

Post #: 84

RE: STS Engines - 1/9/2007 7:39:48 AM

linkadrip

Posts: 1356
Joined: 3/17/2006
From: Tehachapi, CA, USA
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Well i hope i have not made a mistake then with my new D30M engine. I took the head off and looked at the shims one is thick and the other one a little thinnner and the other one real thin. and from my understanding which is probably wrong. was to remove the shims and use the proper single shim for the nitro content that you are going to run in the engine. under 20% Nitro 0.3mm 25% nitro 0.4mm, 30% nitro 0.5mm. So i'm a little confused with this.

quote:

ORIGINAL: TopSpeedToys

Ok... the motor comes with all 3 shims installed to help make the breakin easier (20% would be ideal for breakin). These motors have a tight pinch.

Once it is broken in, you remove the shims not needed. If you run 30% then use the thicker .3mm shim only. 20% use the .2mm only & less than 20% use the .1mm shim.

Hope this helps.

Mark

So i should leave all the shims in the engine and break it in then remove them and use the single one for the nitro content i intend to use. I took all the shims out. and have run one tank through it with the .2mm shim already. But i dont thing it has hurt it. it seem to run real good plenty of smoke and was smooth. i Did this procedure of running it for 2 minutes and then shuting it off letting it cool down and restarting it with the piston at the bottom of its stroke when restarting it. i got it up to 180 degrees each time.

I'll have to put the shims back in and run it with all of them in to finish the break in. So i already screwed up. At least it runs good.

But During this procedure that i did i stripped my Spur gear. the clutch was engaging and the plastic gear stipped and the engine Speed up to a very high rpm and i piched the fuel line and shut it off.

I started it and ran it for 2 min each time and did this 15 times before the tank ran dry or close to it anyway. the last start up the engine ran real smooth alot of smoke. But during the last run on the engine i couldnt help it i had to blip the throttle a few times just sounded so cool and has an extreme amount of power and wouldnt you know it Stipped the gear it couldnt take it.

And i know that my Gear mesh was correct i used a mesh strip and checked it before running the engine the plastic gear cannot handle the power. But i know its my fault cause the Spur gear Is set to tight and was not slipping any.

So anyone who like me has not messed with an engine like this one before make sure you loosen that spur to slip some or it will just shear the teeth right off the Spur. So back to the drawing board more parts as usual.

Oh a question i have regarding running the STS engine and pipe. And may be the reason i had some issues when running the engine. was very strange thing i noticed. During running the engine there was this black oil coming through the line from the STS pipe to the fuel tank. I thought that this must be normal and thought nothing of it till i shut the engine off and the fuel in the fuel line would suck itself back into the tank.

I then would open the tank lid and close it and the fuel would go back to the engine. if i didnt do this the engine would be difficult to restart. So after i had ran the tank dry finally. i started to think about this concept of the pipe. the pipe on the engine is upside down and the header is on the opposite side that it was desighned for. Tank is on the left side and pipe is on the right side.
So with the pipe being upside down the fuel oil from the engine runs into the nipple and is pumped back into the fuel tank. I dont think this is right why would it be but whenthe engine was runnning the oil was going throught the line with no trouble back to the fuel tank well hay that cant be all that bad recycled oil better lubrication i dont think so the oil is black and burnt cant be good.

I removed the fuel line from the pipe to the tank and blew into it and it was very difficult to get any air through it at all. until the oil was out of it. the engine did die several times when i went to blip the throttle. So Do i have to take the tank off and figure out how to put the pipe on the correct side with the nipple on the top of the pipe so oil doesnt run into the tube or is this going to happen no matter how i position the pipe i would think with the nipple on the top of the pipe the oil will not be able to run into the pressure feed tube to the tank and allow more pressure for the fuel to be feed to the engine and eliminate the vacum that is being created in the tank.

And i have no idea if the tank can be mounted on the right side do to the engine being to close to it. Cant turn the pipe right side up or the exahust tube opening nipple will be facing into the truck. So i'm thinking i can turn the pipe were the nipple will face the ground and the pressure feed will be on the side of the pipe instead of under it hopefully eliminating this burnt oil from being fed back to the tank.

Seem like there is always something that happens would like to get it right the first time just once dam you murphy who invented that law anyway.

Well let me know what you think thanks

< Message edited by linkadrip -- 1/9/2007 9:58:24 AM >

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(in reply to NITRO FUMES RULE)

Post #: 85

RE: STS Engines - 1/9/2007 2:21:59 PM

supertib

Posts: 3379
Joined: 3/30/2004
From: , MB, CANADA
Status: online

fitst thing is........ the shims will help you stay at temps easier, running this mill at 180 degrees is going to wear the pistonout very very fast... these motors have a base operting temperature of 200 degrees, any lower and its putting wear on the engine.....You must wrap the head in tin foil to make temps, do not attempt to break in with a bare head, you will run to cold and F up the motor

can you turn the tuned pipe ? so the stinger shoots out the side ? this will move the nipple from the bottom...

if you cant do this then your going to have to drill a new pressure nipple into the exhaust pipe...you can buy a small threaded presure fitting from the LHS, drill a small hole in the correct location and thread the new fitting into the pipe... then use a bead of JB weld to seal it to the pipe...let it dry and your ready to go. Then just put a plug on the old nipple... we have done this to several pipes already and it works and its easy as pie.

you do not want the presure nipple on the bottom, it will plug up and not keep constant pressure to the tank.......

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seeing is believing !

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Post #: 86

RE: STS Engines - 1/9/2007 2:24:13 PM

supertib

Posts: 3379
Joined: 3/30/2004
From: , MB, CANADA
Status: online

quote:

ORIGINAL: supertib

fitst thing is........ the shims will help you stay at temps easier, running this mill at 180 degrees is going to wear the pistonout very very fast... these motors have a base operting temperature of 200 degrees, any lower and its putting wear on the engine.....You must wrap the head in tin foil to make temps, do not attempt to break in with a bare head, you will run to cold and F up the motor

can you turn the tuned pipe ? so the stinger shoots out the side ? this will move the nipple from the bottom...

if you cant do this then your going to have to drill a new pressure nipple into the exhaust pipe...you can buy a small threaded presure fitting from the LHS, drill a small hole in the correct location and thread the new fitting into the pipe... then use a bead of JB weld to seal it to the pipe...let it dry and your ready to go. Then just put a plug on the old nipple... we have done this to several pipes already and it works and its easy as pie.

you do not want the presure nipple on the bottom, it will plug up and not keep constant pressure to the tank.......

And we have a modded STS 30 that we have ran several gallons thru with no stripped spur gears, and our slipper is locked down.... Its all in the mesh, HP will not damage a properly meshed gear... Unless of course something is flexxing then thats a whole different story.... But big power will not strip a spur..

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seeing is believing !

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Post #: 87

RE: STS Engines - 1/9/2007 2:26:42 PM

supertib

Posts: 3379
Joined: 3/30/2004
From: , MB, CANADA
Status: online

for shims run one silver for 30% and one copper for 20%.... but remove the shims gradualy as the motor breaks in, dont bombard it right off the bat with high compresion....

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seeing is believing !

(in reply to supertib)