RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed... - 7/24/2008 4:29:05 PM

MDub51

Posts: 12
Joined: 7/22/2008
From: Hampton Falls, NH, USA
Status: offline

I have a quick flight time related question. I was doing some research and apparently found out that the more C's the battery has, the faster it will run out. I'm a beginner and want the longest flight time I can get so that I can get the most practice. So, should I look for a Lipo with a high Mah and low C? Or will a 7.4v 850MaH 18C be fine for me? Thanks!

-Mike

(in reply to UTM)

Post #: 6551

RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed... - 7/24/2008 5:01:27 PM

UTM

Posts: 529
Joined: 3/11/2008
From: Indianapolis, IN, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: MDub51

I have a quick flight time related question. I was doing some research and apparently found out that the more C's the battery has, the faster it will run out. I'm a beginner and want the longest flight time I can get so that I can get the most practice. So, should I look for a Lipo with a high Mah and low C? Or will a 7.4v 850MaH 18C be fine for me? Thanks!

-Mike

MDub - the C rating is the discharge rating of the battery. It will govern how much power the heli can pull at any given time. Your Falcon won't pull more off of say a 25C battery then it would off a 15C battery so long as the discharge rating can support the power demands of the motors. You won't even really notice until the pack starts to get low. I would say that a 15C battery is plenty. You wouldn't want to go lower than 10C probably. I fly 10C 2000mah batteries and they work just fine and I get 19min flights out of them. They are heavy though and will change the way your heli flys.

With all this talk about fuse mods lately I thought I'd post a couple of pics of my heli's workings now. The motor is the new Xtreme 380. I got a dud on my first go round and it only lasted 7 flights. I am currently awaiting a replacment. I am running the Eflight 3-1 and spektrum ar6200rx also.

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_____________________________

Rules are made for people who aren''''t willing to make up their own....Chuck Yeager

(in reply to MDub51)

Post #: 6552

RE: Falcon 40 (Excee... - 7/24/2008 10:43:27 PM

torch6

Posts: 8
Joined: 7/22/2008
From: Luling, LA, USA
Status: offline

UTM, Thank you for the advice, I think that I will start with The Mega Power, 7.4 v 850 mah lipo batter from ushobbysuppy and see how that works and I think Im going to get the EK2-0851 - 7.4v & 11.1v Balance Charger. Does it matter what charger I get, The reason I was going to get this one is b/c it is cheaper than the others. Also, I would be very interested in learning how to do the fuse mod, because I tend to crash alot.

(in reply to UTM)

Post #: 6553

RE: Falcon 40 (Excee... - 7/24/2008 11:47:29 PM

Bones27

Posts: 853
Joined: 4/17/2007
From: Valdosta, GA, USA
Status: offline

Torch, those chargers work very well, I have one. Be aware though, they are not fast, it will take about 1 1/2 hours to charge an 850 mah battery. You will also need to purchase a universal power supply if you want to use it on house current, it only comes with a wiring harness to connect it to your car battery. I bought a universal power supply at Walmart for like $15.

I'm going to toss this out for what it's worth, I don't know what your experience level is so if this doesn't apply to you please disregard. If you have not used lipo batteries before, please read this article before you start using them: http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/ I can't stress this enough, lipo batteries can be very dangerous if handled, charged and discharged incorrectly. When you get to the web site, look for the articles on safety and charging. It's allot of reading, but could keep you from burning your house down.

< Message edited by Bones27 -- 7/25/2008 12:05:32 AM >

_____________________________

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(in reply to torch6)

Post #: 6554

RE: Falcon 40 (Excee... - 7/25/2008 1:48:32 AM

MDub51

Posts: 12
Joined: 7/22/2008
From: Hampton Falls, NH, USA
Status: offline

I messaged Uri on how to make the fuse mod, and he was awesome enough to give me a GREAT and EASY explanation. Here it is:

It's a simple ordeal that you should have no problems with it.

Materials needed
7.5 - 10 amp micro auto fuse. You should be able to pick these up at any auto parts store. I acutally found a pack at a gas station one day when I was in a pinch.

some sort of car audio connector. I picked up a simple audio connector. This is one with the small hole at one end and a larger flat opening at the other.

Heat shrink tube that will fit over the connectors.

You will want to install the fuse on the positive wire that attaches the main with the 4-1. This is the pink/red wire. If you have any question with which wire it is look on the 4-1 where the wire goes in and you will see a small sign indicating the + and -. All you need to do is cut the wire at about the half way point. You then attach the connectors. I heated the wire end of the connector up with my soldering iron and filled it full of solder. I also tinned each end of the exposed wire. You can then reheat the solder inside the connector until it is flowing and insert the tinned wire into the flowing solder. This will give a very strong connection at the connector. You will want to then cut a piece of heat shrink tubing and put it over the connector covering both the exposed wire and the entire connector. Shrink it up and you are there. Now all you have to do is insert the fuse into each connector to complete the wire circut. This will make changing fuses a snap even in the field because all you have to do is pull the old one and insert an new.

A 7.5a fuse will work fine. I personally used a 10a fuse. If you plan on using a 10a you need to be certain that it is a quick blow type. any 7.5a will work well. I now have a CP Pro 3-1 and a seperate receiver so I use a 15a in mine. The CPP 3-1 is a 20a mosfet. The mosfet on the falcon 4-1 is rated 10a.

If you don't want to use a connector some people have soldered the fuse directly onto the wires. This will slightly reduce the resistance but it won't be noticable. It is a simpler setup but the down side is that every time you blow the fuse you will have to desolder and solder a new fuse in. Feel free to message me if you get stuck or if you need further help.

Take a look at post 2939 on page 118 for some pictures of Bill's mod. Note that his wire insulation is pulled back to show the mod. You will want to make sure that no metal is showing when you are done. Also you don't need to buy the expensive gold plated connectors like his. I used the cheapest one's I could find. I also pulled the insulation that comes with the connector and used heat shrink tubing to cover the whole connector to about 1/8" past any exposed wire at the bottom.

Good luck

Uri

< Message edited by MDub51 -- 7/25/2008 2:05:28 AM >

(in reply to Bones27)

Post #: 6555

RE: Falcon 40 (Excee... - 7/25/2008 2:32:47 AM

creteus

Posts: 169
Joined: 6/22/2008
From: Loganville, GA, USA
Status: offline

Well I just realized something tonight after getting the falcon back together that probably played the main problem with control. When I got the Falcon in the mail The fly bar would piviot without input. I could twist the paddles and bar without any restriction. the bar stayed in place but moved. I always thought that was wrong but hey it was my first helicopter. Now with the new parts and everything tight the paddles only move where the swash plate says so. Soon as the battery goes green we'll try it out.

(in reply to MDub51)

Post #: 6556

RE: Falcon 40 (Excee... - 7/25/2008 4:35:08 AM

torch6

Posts: 8
Joined: 7/22/2008
From: Luling, LA, USA
Status: offline

Bones27, I have never used lipo batteries before, which is why I'm still kind of skeptical on using them, but my best friends dad is about a year into this hobby and he said that if I need help to ask him for it.

When it comes to the fuse mod, do you actualy have to solder or can I find a connector that I can just crimp on.

(in reply to creteus)

Post #: 6557

RE: Falcon 40 (Excee... - 7/25/2008 4:45:19 AM

MDub51

Posts: 12
Joined: 7/22/2008
From: Hampton Falls, NH, USA
Status: offline

I was talking to my friend who is a good electrical guy and he said the soldering is not necessary, you can just use the crimp.

(in reply to torch6)

Post #: 6558

RE: Falcon 40 (Excee... - 7/25/2008 1:52:24 PM

UTM

Posts: 529
Joined: 3/11/2008
From: Indianapolis, IN, USA
Status: offline

Morning fliers.

I would certainly reccomend learning about lipos before using them. Bones is correct, if handled incorrectly they can be hazardous. If handled correctly though they are just so much better than any solid cell battery that has come before. I may go a bit over on my precautions but I charge mine in a ceramic flower pot turned upside down on the ceramic drip tray. I can pull the wires through the hole at the bottom of the top. Even with that percaution I still never leave them to charge if I am gone or sleeping. I have never had any sort of issue and I have 6 lipos which between them have over 700 cycles. I just figure better safe than sorry. I don't think my wife would appreciate a battery fire in the kitchen

Concerning the connectors I am sure you could use some sort of crimping connector. I like solder personally. I never have to worry about my connector pulling loose of the wire and I do feel that it gives a better electrical connection. Just be aware that you are going to be pulling a considerable amount of power through this connection. If you are planning on crimping you must be sure you have a very solid connection. I crimped my first fuse mod and the connection was not so great. After a couple of flights I realized that the connectors were getting very hot. I lifted the fuse off the 4-1 and it had gotton so hot it actually deformed the caseing of the 4-1. Since I reinstalled it with solder joints it doesn't even get warm.

Uri

_____________________________

Rules are made for people who aren''''t willing to make up their own....Chuck Yeager

(in reply to MDub51)

Post #: 6559

RE: Falcon 40 (Excee... - 7/25/2008 3:02:11 PM

Bones27

Posts: 853
Joined: 4/17/2007
From: Valdosta, GA, USA
Status: offline