RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/19/2009 11:23 PM

Yellow Crow

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That little "thingy" on the table is a capacitor. In electronics, they have several different uses. In this particular case, they are used as noise filters. This keeps the "electrical noise" generated by the rotating motor out of the rx. (well in theory anyway). Just solder it across the motor terminals along with the motor leads. Hopes this helps some.

Have fun, fly safe,

Jim

< Message edited by Yellow Crow -- 6/19/2009 11:29 PM >

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/20/2009 3:59 AM

SightSeeker

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Yellow Crow

That little "thingy" on the table is a capacitor. In electronics, they have several different uses. In this particular case, they are used as noise filters. This keeps the "electrical noise" generated by the rotating motor out of the rx. (well in theory anyway). Just solder it across the motor terminals along with the motor leads. Hopes this helps some.

Have fun, fly safe,

Jim

Hey thanks.

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/23/2009 1:29 AM

karlik

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This looks interesting -

www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/23/2009 7:25 PM

nascarfaad

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Has anyone tried this DD motor from Xtreme on their Falcon? I'm guessing it would fit. I've used other items from Xtreme and they've always had great parts. Ken

quote:

ORIGINAL: karlik

This looks interesting -

www.miracle-mart.com/store/index.php

< Message edited by nascarfaad -- 6/23/2009 8:54 PM >

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/24/2009 12:26 AM

karlik

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I'm guessing no one has tried it, or we would have seen a post earlier?

I agree, xtreme makes good stuff.

The honeybee fp has the same boom diameter (4.95mm), so it should fit with no mods needed.

I like the overall appearance, and the tail skid looks like it could take some abuse. I'm thinking about getting just the mount assy since I already have a dd motor, but probably not right away. My biggest concern is it doesn't look like it would fit inside my custom fuselage. I may let our buddy Jim try one and see how it works.

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/24/2009 4:13 AM

nascarfaad

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After two packs of flying today I noticed that the JST connecters between my fuse mod and 4in1 (throttle) were VERY hot. The two connectors now seem to be welded together. Here's my question. Once I cut the two connectors off, how do I install new JST connectors? Local hobby shop not to helpful except for selling parts. I've looked for a video on youtube but no luck. Second question... how are the wires in the 4in1 connected? Easily removed/replaced? Was thinking maybe I could replace the throttle wires since I was there. Diagrams/videos would be helpful~!!! Thanks In Advance.

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/24/2009 5:22 AM

karlik

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Bummer.
Those connectors are a pain in the butt. Some are crimp, some are solder - just so dang small and hard to work with. Frankly - I won't mess with 'em.

For the motor side, I would go with this and make life easy.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPHE0&P=7
Just cut those bullets of and solder it to the motor. Most hobby shops carry great planes, see if you can one local - part number GPMM3138. Otherwise order from Tower.

For the 4in1 side, I did a search here for mosfet and found a good pic -
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4826535/anchors_5723900/mpage_38/key_/anchor/tm.htm#5723900
post 934 by robotronski.
I don't think you would need to unsolder from the 4in1? Just cut the bad connector off, splice the wires for the new connector and put some heat shrink tubing over the splice.
For that side, I would cut the wires off of a bad battery, if you have one. If you don't, I have one of the green packs I can sacrifice. Send me a pm with your address and I'll cut it off and mail it to you. It would be a short wire, but shouldn't be a problem.

BIG question is why did it happen? If you have a 10 amp fuse in there, it should have blown if there was a short or soemthing putting excessive load on the motor. Do you have a way to show us a pic of how you have it set up?

< Message edited by karlik -- 6/24/2009 5:28 AM >

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/24/2009 6:04 AM

phordprefect

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Hi ppls.. new to the site. Have been flying the Falcon 40 for a couple weeks now.... thought I'd offer my thoughts on this machine. ( And a cost saving self-repair idea )

First Thought : GREAT STARTER HELI!

Second Thought : You can break stuff

It took me about 5 to 6 battery charges to FINALLY get the hang of the machine. By which point, I broke it... so 1 week waiting on the parts order later... fired it up again today. Guess what. Flew it solid, level, straight, landed multiple times, with NO crashes!

Moral of the Post : This heli is SURPRISINGLY tough. I can't believe the abuse I gave it on the learning curve before something finally broke. I flew the Falcon 40 into a hedge boardering my driveway doing about 30 MPH, the worst suffered injury was that rotor bearing that popped out. Took 20 mins to find it, but popped it back in and was good. Took it to work to show off my skills, and broke it perminantly in our warehouse. ( untill parts replacement )

FIRST PART BROKEN > Rotor head core. Snapped off both sides of that Y piece. Considering the learning curve abuse... I'm truly surprised it lasted so long.  Second part broken, the dreaded SERVO.

This friends and neighbours, is the reason for my post.   A broken servo can (may?) be fixed!!   All you need is a tiny screwdriver, and a dremel tool with a small grinding bit. Let me explain.

A broken servo will 90% of the time mean a stripped or broken gear. Take the servo apart. If you're like me, that is one of the final 2 gears inside the servo. You're missing 1 to 3 teeth on the servo gear, likely the last and second to last gear such as my case. You can invert that last gear 90 degrees, and get solid teeth gripping again, BUT the gear won't fit inside the servo casing now. Why? There's a piece of plastic moulded into that servo casing to prevent the servo from spinning 360 degrees over and over like a motor. But, in this servo, the gear only rotates 45 degrees anyway. When you rotate that final gear, it'll not fit fully into the casing anymore because of the gears shape. Take apart a servo and you'll see what I mean. Simple fix. Inside that plastic servo cover you take off you'll see that molded plastic stop. Simply attack it CAREFULLY with a dremel. Grind it down flush so the gear will fit on 180 degrees. Put servo back together.  Viola! A servo that will last another few bad crashes!

Conclusion : This is a damn fine starter heli. It's surprisingly stable, once you stop overcorrecting the controls. I'm really surprised how easy it is to learn on being my very first RC heli. Crashing will break it, but I'm impressed by how much it can take before something breaks.

5 Stars from a beginner. Outstanding "toy" !!!

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/24/2009 6:35 AM

karlik

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I hear ya. Flew mine into a wood fence - HARD! That bearing popped loose but was still on the rotor core. Snapped it into place and started flying again. Speaking of the rotor core, get the aluminum one from US hobby. I dare ya to break that thing.

I see so many people in the main elect heli forum ask for a good first heli and get told by so many to buy an expensive collective bird. So glad I went this way.

Your servo fix is creative and good to know - I replaced both with hitec s55's and got a replacement gear kit.

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/24/2009 1:59 PM

Yellow Crow

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nascar, I agree with Larry. Get the JST out and put the bullets in. On my falcon, the main JST (the one on the battery) after plugging and unplugging, became loose, and I had an intermittant go and no go on the whole system. (try flying that way...SCARY) anyway replaced with deans, no more trouble.

Larry, good to see the forum picking up a little of activity, I knew that sooner or later, the questions would have to start again.

phordperfect, good idea on servos, but these oem servos will just quit working, so I suggest you upgrade. I am running the sg90's from Michael at US hobby. Good servos+good price=good value.

You guys fly safeHave fun.

Jim

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 12:47 AM

karlik

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Nascar -

Ok, I’m going to assume you know nothing about doing this. I’d rather tell you stuff you already know than leave out something you don’t know.

You’ll want some heat shrink tubing, Buy it at Radio Shack, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Tower even sells it if you haven’t ordered the new connector yet. Buy an assortment so you know you’ll have the right size. I have heat shrink on the spade connectors for my fuse. Comes in assorted colors, I got black.

The motor is pretty straight forward. Buy the cable at Tower, cut off the bullet ends and solder the new JST/wire assembly to the motor. Should end up looking pretty much like the factory. And remember it’s better to have the wires a little too long than a little too short. Measure same as factory, then maybe add half an inch.
The picture at tower shows red and black wires, you have pink and white wires. Black is usually negative, white is usually common – they both mean the same thing here so black goes to white and red goes to pink. Solder the black wire where your white one was and the red wire where the pink one was.

I would not unsolder the wires from the 4in1, too much chance you’ll damage the board. Cut the factory wires about where the blue arrows are (again, too long is better than too short, I’d cut ‘em real close to your bad connector). Strip about ¼ inch of the insulation off, you should have a bare white and a bare pink wire.

The wire I’m sending has a black and red lead. Red goes to pink, black goes to white. Cut about a ¾ inch piece of heat shrink and slide on the white wire down against the radio so it doesn’t get hot and shrink when you solder. The heat shrink diameter will need to be big enough to fit over the solder joint your going to make. I twisted the red and black wires on the one I’m sending so you can see how to get a smooth joint instead of one with a big lump in it. Undo my joint, then twist the back and white wires together the same way and solder. I colored one wire kind of black to make it look more like yours will.
Slide the heat shrink up so it covers the solder joint and shrink it. It doesn’t take much heat. I use a butane lighter. Pass the flame over it real quick and it’ll start to shrink. I do kind of a heat –cool –heat type of thing so I don’t melt it. Heat it from all sides until it gets snug. If you haven’t used heat shrink before, make a couple practice shrinks on a scrap piece of wire. If you get it too hot, it will melt.

I think you said you have a fuse and connectors? Solder a new spade connector to the pink wire and maybe cover it with heat shrink. Solder a new spade connector to the red wire and heat shrink it too. Plug your fuse into the spade connectors and you’re done.

I’m still concerned why it got so hot. What are you using for batteries?

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 2:36 AM

Yellow Crow

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Damn Larry, I have a double e degree, and that confused me.

No, seriously, that was an excellent step-by-step explaination.

. That should solve his problem. Read my last post on why it got hot. My batt JST got a little loose from plugging and unplugging, and that little puppy got very hot when flying

, and became intermittant. Now that was SCARY.

Fly safe...Have fun

Jim

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 3:15 AM

karlik

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I'm thinking you're right, Jim. A bad connector (loose, dirty, whatever) would add resistance and cause a voltage drop at that point which would generate heat. I was confused why the fuse or 4in1 didn't blow, but adding resistance would actually lower the overall current. Kinda makes sense.

Hows your fuselage coming?, looking forward to some pics.

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 3:54 AM

phordprefect

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quote:

ORIGINAL: karlik

Speaking of the rotor core, get the aluminum one from US hobby. I dare ya to break that thing.

LOL! I'm going to take you up on that dare. Got home from work today. First battery... good flying. Getting a real handle on tail in hovering and moving around at command. But...

Second battery, practicing level and stable hover, gust of wind comes up. I throttle down, land square on the skids, throttle off... but slight bounce. Wind pushes her over on its side. Rotors still spinning. Rotors tag tarmac...

ROTOR HEAD CORE BREAKS!     This is a comedy of errors.   I'm beginning to get the impression owning rc helis is like owning a boat...

Take bucket. Fill with money. Throw at hobby. Watch wind blow it away.....

Edit:  n/m, found the part. $30 bucks...    Might it be worth replacing the entire rotor head assembly with an aluminum setup? They're not cheap... but..?

< Message edited by phordprefect -- 6/25/2009 4:05 AM >

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 11:52 AM

tonywayne

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Wow I got a F40 back in 06 when this thread started and posted on here. Good job guys! I dont fill like reading through 300 pgs. Does anyone have any exp with long term use of a 3 cell lipo? I flew a 3 cell on mine awhile back for only a few flights and it realy came alive. Iv been wanting to get my F40 out agen with 3 cell lipo but dont want to burn anyhting up. Any advice or links to this discusion? Thanks guys

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 12:07 PM

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quote:

ORIGINAL: phordprefect

quote:

ORIGINAL: karlik

Speaking of the rotor core, get the aluminum one from US hobby. I dare ya to break that thing.

Edit: n/m, found the part. $30 bucks... Might it be worth replacing the entire rotor head assembly with an aluminum setup? They're not cheap... but..?

I make the aluminium rotor core which USHobby sell so my answer is obviously biased...

IMHO if you make the rest of the head out of aluminium you are going to start to break things further down the chain. i.e. you may well end up bending the main shaft or worse.
One of the big plus points for the original design is the way in which the blade holder can disconnect from the rotor core on impact with the bearings poping out. All of the full aluminium heads I have seen do not allow this to happen.

Simon

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 12:33 PM

phordprefect

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quote:

ORIGINAL: S_Daykin

I make the aluminium rotor core which USHobby sell so my answer is obviously biased...

Simon

Well, in that case, you made another however many bucks on that part

Order made a few hours ago. I'm sincerely hoping it's more durable than the plastic rotor head cores... because they seem to be my weak link. Broken two now, second one on a really wimpy "crash" ... it wasn't even a crash! More of a tip over. I've got a ton of replacement parts in a box for this machine, but thus far, the first and only thing I've broken beyond repair is that core.

And thx for making something sturdier. Obviously, this seems to be the weaker link on this machine. Give me about a week plus.. and I'll let ya know how it stands up

Does that core use the standard pain-in-the-ass pin to fit thru the shaft? or an allen screw? The pics make it look like a screw to lock it in.

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 3:08 PM

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quote:

ORIGINAL: phordprefect

Well, in that case, you made another however many bucks on that part Order made a few hours ago. I'm sincerely hoping it's more durable than the plastic rotor head cores... because they seem to be my weak link. Broken two now, second one on a really wimpy "crash" ... it wasn't even a crash! More of a tip over. I've got a ton of replacement parts in a box for this machine, but thus far, the first and only thing I've broken beyond repair is that core.

And thx for making something sturdier. Obviously, this seems to be the weaker link on this machine. Give me about a week plus.. and I'll let ya know how it stands up Does that core use the standard pain-in-the-ass pin to fit thru the shaft? or an allen screw? The pics make it look like a screw to lock it in.

I have only ever heard of one of the aluminium cores getting broken and I understand that was a very high speed crash into concrete.

It uses both an allen screw and the pin, you should be ok with just the screw but I recommend putting the pin in also as a precaution.

Thanks
Simon

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 4:27 PM

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Talk about bad luck. I lost a head bearing, put my last one in, then crashed and lost both. I have no idea how both popped out without anything snapping off. I didn't notice until I took off and couldn't move. Now I'm down for a week waiting for parts. I have a blade 400 that I've flown twice but I've been waiting to get the basics down with the falcon. Oh well.

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 5:18 PM

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The slomax 300 was discontinued a couple months ago and now the Century Mabuchi Gold HP370 Motor has been discontinued. I ordered the last one Tower had today. Only figured it out when they wouldn't back order a second one. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMGV7&P=7
At this rate we'll soon be using rubber bands~!!!

< Message edited by nascarfaad -- 6/25/2009 5:20 PM >

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 5:44 PM

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Have a question about capacitors. I am using the GWS CN12-RXC DD tail motor. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001718538&I=LXHHF7&P=K My wonderful soldering skills (not) has "melted" the capacitor. The tech notes at Tower says the motor comes with a pre-installed 104 micro Farad capacitor. Is this something that I could get at Radio Shack? If so... what would be their equivalent?

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 5:45 PM

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Hey Simon –
Thanks for jumping into our little “forum”. Always good to hear from one of the people who improve the hobby and the equipment. I’ve already expressed my gratitude to Michael for stocking your core, now I get to say thanks to you for making them. With the CNC core and Gary’s superskids, the only weak point left is the mainframe.

We have a few guys who use the full metal head and seem to like it. And it does really look sharp.
But I tend to agree with what you’re saying. The only part of the head assy I’ve ever broken is the core. Using the CNC core, I’ve still had the head pop off several times in a crash and I always felt that it was acting like a shock absorber and protecting the main shaft when that happens.

Phord – I’ve also found the bird is a little more stable, and responds a lot faster and smoother with the CNC core. It doesn’t bend and flex in flight like that plastic factory one, and I could feel the difference first time up. I would suggest you get a few spare bearings. I haven’t lost one since I went CNC, but I’m sure it will happen eventually.
Also make sure you download the instructions from the download page at US Hobby. Simon put together a first class document with lots of pictures.

Tony-
I don’t think anyone is currently using 3c lipos, but I may be wrong on that. Several guys did in the past and I never saw anyone report damage from them.

Nascar-
Oh crap. That pretty much leaves the factory motor and the xtreme 380. From what I could get from SloMax, we are only a very small part of the market for those motors. The car guys are the bulk of it and they all want to go brushless. Personally, I think going brushless in this little 80 dollar heli is a total waste of money.

Sightseeker –
If you know where they popped out try searching with a large magnet. I use an old speaker I had laying around. Just drag it around the crash site and you may get lucky.

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/25/2009 6:48 PM

S_Daykin

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Larry,

quote:

ORIGINAL: karlik

Hey Simon –
Thanks for jumping into our little “forum”. Always good to hear from one of the people who improve the hobby and the equipment. I’ve already expressed my gratitude to Michael for stocking your core, now I get to say thanks to you for making them. With the CNC core and Gary’s superskids, the only weak point left is the mainframe.

Your welcome... The only reason I keep making them really is because I read about guys like yourself who are pleased with it on various forums. Even the wife is getting fed up of the trips to the post office!

Thanks
Simon

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/26/2009 11:14 PM

Leethetreeguy

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Hey guys. Well, lets see. I canged out the electronics. I installed a new motor. I installed new blades. I put in a bigger better lipo battery. And I am all ready to see if this bird is ever gonna fly. If it is gonna take off, I think it would be now. Problem is. I don't have the courage now to try. heheh. I have it were I think it is gonna be perfect. Just don't wanna be dissapointed again, you know? I have a job interview Monday. I will either test it before or after that. hehe. Lee

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RE: Falcon 40 (Exceed heli) Forum - 6/30/2009 4:49 AM

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Hi Guys, I'm reposting question since I didn't get any replies. I am using the GWS CN12-RXC DD tail motor. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001718538&I=LXHHF7&P=K My wonderful soldering skills (not) has "melted" the capacitor. The tech notes at Tower says the motor comes with a pre-installed 104 micro Farad capacitor. Is this something that I could get at Radio Shack? If so... what would be their equivalent? Is it safe to fly if I just removed it?

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