RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
       

All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Scale Aircraft >> RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build
Page: <<   < prev  1 2 [3] 4 5 6 7 8 9 10   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 10/21/2006 12:55:26 PM   
heli_Rod



Posts: 619
Joined: 12/29/2005
From: Pembroke Pines, FL, USA
Status: offline 		SWEET! Very nice detail!

Rod

< Message edited by heli_Rod -- 10/21/2006 12:56:12 PM >

_____________________________

AMA# 113287, Amateur Radio WA9H, Synergy N9, Fury Extreme 90, Stinger 50, T-REX 450SE V2, JR & Spektrum Radios

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 51

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 10/21/2006 2:09:30 PM   
abufletcher



Posts: 4887
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline 		I have a confession. That's just a photo. I found a hi-res image of the Bentley BR2 through teh photo library of the Museum of Science and Industry in London (paid them a small processing fee) and then worked on the image a bit in photoshop. For example one of the cylinders had been cut open to expose the piston and I needed to fix this. Also I had to remove the background and the blue stand that was supporting it.

But I really do think that a high quality photograph behind a closed cowl may, in fact, look better than most of the dummy engines we see on scale models. If I decide that it doesn't have enough "depth" then I might lay down some surface detail like the rods and cylinder pins. In fact, I've already PS'ed an image with the rods removed from the photo and space for a built-up forward crankcase.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by abufletcher -- 10/22/2006 1:42:22 PM >

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 52

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 10/21/2006 3:55:05 PM   
heli_Rod



Posts: 619
Joined: 12/29/2005
From: Pembroke Pines, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Sure fooled me...LOl. It looked so real. Not a bad idea of using a flat graphic though. If you're not looking for absolute realism, it would be a great time and money saver along with being a no hassle maintenance detail. Something I never thought of before

Ole dawg just learned a new trick!

Rod


_____________________________

AMA# 113287, Amateur Radio WA9H, Synergy N9, Fury Extreme 90, Stinger 50, T-REX 450SE V2, JR & Spektrum Radios

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 53

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 10/21/2006 4:01:00 PM   
abufletcher



Posts: 4887
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline 		Another plus is that I can swap the static image for one of the engine rotating for flight. That way I can avoid that embarrassing scene in Flyboys where the aircraft's propellor is spinning but the "engine" is just sitting there. Here's the image of the Bentley as it would have looked in motion. I did this with photoshop based on video I've seen of a functioning 1/4 scale Bentley running on a bench.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by abufletcher -- 10/21/2006 4:02:02 PM >

(in reply to heli_Rod)
       Post #: 54

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 10/22/2006 9:59:34 AM   
abufletcher



Posts: 4887
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline 		Well, here it is. The fruits of a day's labor (well actually a night's labor and a day of waiting).

The bad news is that removing the laminations from the forms pretty much destoyed the saran wrap so I'm going to have to pull them off the board and rewrap them. Oh boy.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 55

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 10/22/2006 1:34:37 PM   
abufletcher



Posts: 4887
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline 		Man, I just knew there HAD to be an easier way than cellophane wrapping all the parts -- and there it was starring me right in the face. Tape. Cello-tape. Good old Scotch tape. I had all the parts recovered and nailed to the board again in about 5 minutes. It's almost ridiculously easy. Put the tape down the middle, then press down the sides.

Also instead of cellohane (which I really hate) to cover the board I used my trusty wax paper (which I've been using since I was building Guillow's models on my mom's kitchen table).

Time to get cracking on the second set!

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by abufletcher -- 10/22/2006 1:36:25 PM >

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 56

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 10/22/2006 2:50:00 PM   
abufletcher



Posts: 4887
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline 		Hmm... ..the tape I'm using looks like it's decomposing in contact with the white glue! How is that possible? This is plastic right? Well, I've only done the one pattern tonight and we'll see tomorrow if enough of a barrier remains to be able to separate the laminations. Stay tuned.

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 57

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 10/22/2006 6:19:51 PM   
khodges


 

Posts: 4963
Joined: 7/3/2003
From: newton, NC, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: abufletcher

Well, here it is. The fruits of a day's labor (well actually a night's labor and a day of waiting).




Abu-- Lookin' good. I did a similar type linkage for my Bristol. I used carbon fiber rod and standard Futaba servo arms, and made the mount/pivot from brass tubing and brass plate. The brass tubing is a slide fit over the carbon tube, and is soldered to the brass plate, which is screwed to the fuse box. The carbon rod is cut to 1/16 less than the width of the fuse mount to limit side play, and I both Ca'd and used a 2-56 screw through the arms to bond them to the rod. Extremely lightweight and strong.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by khodges -- 10/22/2006 6:23:17 PM >

_____________________________

Club Saito #2, WACO Brotherhood #20. What other trouble can I get into?

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 58

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 10/22/2006 11:12:05 PM   
Reg Hinnant



Posts: 297
Joined: 7/1/2002
From: Corpus Christi, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Don,
On the Sopwith Baby tail surfaces I was using MDF patterns to laminate to. All I did was use wax paper on the base and rub candle wax on the sides top & bottom of the pattern. I was laminating up 2 sets & had to use new wax paper & rub the candle on the form well both times. I was wetting the wood & using Gorilla glue.


Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by Reg Hinnant -- 10/22/2006 11:15:34 PM >

(in reply to khodges)
       Post #: 59

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 10/23/2006 4:57:38 AM   
abufletcher



Posts: 4887
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline 		khodges, thanks for the photos. Your set up looks really good. I suppose Chris' solution is fine for a kit (minimal materials, functional, and strong). I built something like you set up for the bellcrank on my Legionaire (which officially just used push-rods but I wasn't having any of THAT).

(in reply to Reg Hinnant)
       Post #: 60

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 10/23/2006 5:00:58 AM   
abufletcher



Posts: 4887
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Reg Hinnant
Hey Don,
On the Sopwith Baby tail surfaces I was using MDF patterns to laminate to. All I did was use wax paper on the base and rub candle wax on the sides top & bottom of the pattern. I was laminating up 2 sets & had to use new wax paper & rub the candle on the form well both times. I was wetting the wood & using Gorilla glue.


Very useful tips, Reg.

The good news is that when I checked today the tape method seems to have worked satisfactorily -- at least as well as the saran wrap method. But I think I might try the wax idea just to experiment a bit. I also picked up some Gorilla glue this summer so I think I'll give that a try.

(in reply to Reg Hinnant)
       Post #: 61

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 10/23/2006 3:27:20 PM   
abufletcher



Posts: 4887
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline 		Well, working with foaming glue was an interesting new experience. It initially looked awful but cleaned up really nice. It certainly cured faster than white glue -- but white glue might have more strength. It doesn't really matter here and the couple remaining laminations I'll do with the same tape + gorilla glue (actually the Elmer's brand of it which was a couple of bucks cheaper).

BTW, the bottle says it's 100% waterproof. And that's completely right. Waterproof. Soap-proof. Shampoo-proof. Alcohol-proof. And almost thinner-proof. This stuff does NOT come off your hands like white glue.

Two days later and I'm basically finished with the laminations. I have to redo a couple that didn't come out quite like I'd like but basically I'm ready to continue.

But...now that some replacement parts have come from Chris, I think I'm going to get back to building the fuselage. Then I can come back to the rudder and stab and have the "fun" of the laminations behind me.



Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize

(in reply to abufletcher)