RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
       

All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Scale Aircraft >> RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build
Page: <<   < prev  7 8 [9] 10 11 12 13 14 15 16   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/12/2006 10:46:28 PM   
Mode One


 

Posts: 2228
Joined: 5/4/2005
From: Park Rapids, MN, USA
Status: offline
1/4th scale wings might actually have the same number of parts, they're just bigger! Being a smart guy, I know!

< Message edited by Mode One -- 11/12/2006 10:48:24 PM >



_____________________________

Mode One, AMA 59157

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 201

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/13/2006 2:03:25 PM   
abufletcher



Posts: 5154
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline
Here are the top wing ribs laid out in their respective positions.

Too bad that I won't get to do those cool looking, wedge-shaped, balanced ailerons since they were an additon to the late production Snipes and I'm modeling one of the early production Snipes. You either get the "cool" rudder or the "cool" ailerons! But of course if what you want is the best flying Snipe you can have, then you should be thrilled with both the larger rudder and cool balanced ailerons.

BTW, one of the photos in the Snipe datafile show an intermediary prototype with a very Fokker-ish looking triangular elevator along with the the also Fokker-ish balanced ailerons.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize

(in reply to Mode One)
       Post #: 202

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/13/2006 2:21:19 PM   
abufletcher



Posts: 5154
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline
Of course I had to make a matching bamboo fin for my bamboo rudder! If for no other reason than to have matching thicknesses.

It was slow going since I had to figure this out from scratch. I started with the drawing I had used for the early rudder and then sketched in some construction details based on a bamboo rim. The foundation of the whole idea is to extend the tail post (as was the case on the original anyway). I thought about brass but I really don't need the strength -- or the weight -- so a same diameter dowel was shaped to fit into the brass tube.

The next key design consideration was to make sure that the brass tubes for the support wires would line up properly with the kit's music wires that pass through the elevator. This seemed like a really good part of Chris' design so I definitely wanted to keep this.

The construction pretty much follows the overall approach of the kit fins -- modifiied for the new slimmer width. The bamboo of the rim is 3mm and then I put in 3mm balsa flanking the forward brass tube. Next, after A LOT of careful measurement, I cut the dowel tail post extension to size and cut in a 3mm wide notch at the top and drilled a 3mm hole for the lower rim bamboo. This makes for a very solid frame.

BTW, photos of the original Snipe show that the forward support wires connected at the top of the early fin -- so I'll do up another brass top wire attachment similar to the one Chris has on his Pup's fin.

I should explain how I fitted the brass tubes. First, I put in the balsa filler, then I added a 1/32" ply plate to one side. Then with this holding things together, I cut through the bamboo rim at the exit points. Then I CA'ed the tube in place and put a ply plate on the other side.

Mostly this was slow because everything had to fit perfectly with all the other already-in-place parts. Making the thing was actually really simple.

Is it perfect? No. There are still a coule of things I will probably do to tweek it. For one, I don't know if I actually need such wide balsa/ply supports for the tube. I could probably cut this down to about 1/8" on either side of the tube. In fact, I'm not even sure I need to have the brass tubes running completely through the fin. I could probably cut out a good section in the middle and still have everything line up nice. Note that this fin is now supported in three places: on the tail post, and with two music wires. And I don't think I need the balsa in the rounded edge at all now that the curve is fixed. And of coures all of this weight saving would allow me to put in a couple short lengths of 1.5mm bamboo (like my bracing) that would simulate the scale structure!

Note: It's somewhat surprising is that this little fin weighs almost as much at the rudder (6.5g vs. 8.5g). This is due, of course, to the full length brass tubes (and the dowel tail post extension). This probably about a gram or so heavier than a balsa core fin attached as per plan.


Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by abufletcher -- 11/15/2006 10:54:18 AM >

(in reply to Mode One)
       Post #: 203

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/14/2006 3:53:17 PM   
abufletcher



Posts: 5154
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline
I'm doing a lot of little things while I internalize the plans and construction notes for the wings.

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 204

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/14/2006 6:17:03 PM   
abufletcher



Posts: 5154
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline
I'd like to remind folks that I'm still just building a kit. It's just an "early production" one. For the most part my fuse looks just the way it's designbed to look. I've found a couple areas that I thought could be improved on -- and have passed these comments on the Chris who will be incorporating many of them in subsequent kits.

The early production rudder is one of those areas that needed improvement. The plans as they were at the time they were printed for me (in September, 2006) do include an early rudder but its outlines were not scale. And since one for the major plusses of this "sports scale" kit, IMHO, is that Chris admirably has stuck to near 100% scale accurate outlines, the early rudder clearly needed to be updated.

The need to update unfortunately rendered the parts included in the kit for the early rudder unuseable. The larger, late production rudder BTW is dead on scale in terms of outline. So I was going to have to scratch-build a replacement (rather than waiting for Chris to send replacement parts from Germany to Japan).

I started out by making one using the same construction techniques used by the kit: balsa core with laminated edges. I still think this is a good choice for a kit. It's strong, practical, economical, and relatively easy to do. I love my bamboo rudder but bamboo doweling is not readily available in many areas (for example Germany). For a modeler living in Japan, bamboo is an obvious choice.

Anyway, I imagine that I'll be building the wings (virtually) stock. We might find a small problem or two that needs some thinking but I continue to be impressed with this Snipe kit. It's a model you could build entirely stock in a month or two (assuming you had a nice, photo-illustrated construction manual ) but it's also a kit that you can take to the limits of your skills without having to redo major structures (as I ended up doing on my "BUSA" Eindecker -- and to a certain extent on my Flair Legionaire). This Snipe is sports scale at its best.

ADDED LATER: Here's another thought of the "philosophy of kit building." Some people enjoy just following a set of instructions and ending up with a model that's "exactly as it's supposed to be." Let's call this the "2+2=4" approach (though there always seem to be a few people who manage to add 2 + 2 and get 3). Most trainer kits are assembled in this way. Ditto for 98% of the BUSA eindeckers out there. This can be contrasted with an approach that treats a kit as a foundation -- a point of departure for the builder's skills and enjoyment. A great example of this is Randy's outstanding built of the GTM Hanriot. Sure that was a kit -- a GREAT kit. But anyone who thinks they can just buy the kit, follow the instructions, and get Randy's model will be in for a shock.

< Message edited by abufletcher -- 11/16/2006 7:45:06 AM >

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 205

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/14/2006 8:45:24 PM   
Reg Hinnant



Posts: 297
Joined: 7/1/2002
From: Corpus Christi, TX, USA
Status: offline
Don,
Surely they have bamboo "Shish kabob" skewers just about everywhere? Even in Germany!

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 206

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/14/2006 11:15:26 PM   
camdyson



Posts: 828
Joined: 7/20/2005
From: Bairnsdale, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline
Looking good Don.

Does that rudder hinge REALLY work ok? No sideways play? Seems too simple to be true!

Cam

(in reply to Reg Hinnant)
       Post #: 207

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/15/2006 12:12:10 AM   
abufletcher



Posts: 5154
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: camdyson
Does that rudder hinge REALLY work ok? No sideways play? Seems too simple to be true!


It works perfectly with very smooth movement. But there ARE a couple of tricks to the "no sideways play." First, you need to add a drop of CA where the tie wraps around the metal ring. Second, I plan to add a spot of epoxy that will anchor the locking "head" against the suppost gussets on the rudder. The idea is to prevent the tie from being able to turn.

Finally, I just noticed last night that you get a more even shape to the strap if the tip passed back through the lock doing straight back. Hmm...that's a little hard to describe. But just think that thee are several ways the tie can be attached. One of them is better than the others.

(in reply to camdyson)
       Post #: 208

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/15/2006 12:16:49 AM   
abufletcher



Posts: 5154
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: Reg Hinnant

Don,
Surely they have bamboo "Shish kabob" skewers just about everywhere? Even in Germany!


The problem is that skewers may not always be long enough. Still, this is not an insurmountable problem. I'm just pointing out that a balsa rudder has some advantages in terms or practicality.

(in reply to Reg Hinnant)
       Post #: 209

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/15/2006 12:26:59 AM   
abufletcher



Posts: 5154
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline
The main problem with my plastic tie hinges is that, thanks to Reg, ( ) I now realize that they aren't scale on many British aircraft! But man I'll be ready to do that Fokker!

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 210

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/15/2006 12:51:53 AM   
abufletcher



Posts: 5154
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline
in the topic of the early rudder, does anyone happen to know what the white tags seen on many Snipe photos were for?

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 211

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/15/2006 12:28:13 PM   
BobH


 

Posts: 4376
Joined: 4/1/2003
From: Springfield, VA,
Status: offline
Don, maybe they are like some of the little white items seeon some Camels?? On the Camels they are ID numbers used to keep the assemblies togather.

_____________________________

BobH.

(in reply to abufletcher)
       Post #: 212

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Sopwith Snipe build - 11/15/2006 5:04:36 PM   
abufletcher



Posts: 5154
Joined: 2/13/2004
From: Zentsuji, JAPAN
Status: offline
I spend the evening doing the late production rudder as per the plans. It's an interesting contrast with the early style rudder and gives the aircraft a much more modern look. The finished weight of this rudder and fin is 17.5g as opposed to 15.5g for the bamboo early rudder and fin.

Here are the construction photos.





Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize