Posts: 54
Joined: 1/8/2005 From: tulsa, OK, USA Status: offline
I too am working on an F-16, Thunderbird sceme. I have some questions. I am planing on flying mine with ailerons, I could always lock them neutral and switch to elevons even by switching conditions in-flight. Do any of you guys that have flown this particular model tested the quality of the rolls in comparing the two? Seems to me the aileron equiped model would do much more axial rolls and thats what I am looking for. I want this model to roll like my pattern planes. Mine has a nice Kevlar strip for the hinge line. August 07 vintage.
Do any of you have any experience with the Matrix landing gear? I had them make a set up and then compared them to the last version version of Skymaster's and they seem much more robust but more difficult to get installed. I liked the Skymaster one piece main landing gear unit, easy to bolt in but dont think they have a positive up lock, maybe a mute point.
I am planing on a gyro on rudder then maybe on ailerons. I have watched alot of jets over the years and seems to me they yaw axis is where I see jets wiggling the most in windy conditions.
Andy in Little Rock- we need to compare notes, hope to see you this summer with yours.
Posts: 113
Joined: 12/25/2002 From: Ft Lauderdale,
FL, USA Status: offline
Im glad to be a member of the F-16 1/6 club aswell. I recieved mine 2 weeks ago and am in the process of painting it. I am going to go with a elevon + aileron slave mix. I have used this mix in a few planes such as my fiberclassics SU-27 twin turbine with great results. When i used elevon only, the aircraft didn't seem to roll axially. Also, the surfaces seemed to not have enough authority (not relating to the servo power) as they are trying to spin a large airplane. Rolls were slugish to me. I setup a mix so the ailerons worked at 50% of the full elevon travel and it fixed the problem. Im painting my bird with the 1998 31 tiger meet scheme. I will be running a Artes Rhino in it aswell and 2.4 Gig setup. Using 8711 on elevators and 8611 on ailerons and rudder. Analog servo on steering. Can wait to have this puppy flying!
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Full scale Helicopter Military Flight Instructor/Commercial Pilot
Posts: 127
Joined: 7/21/2007 From: Timonium,
MD, USA Status: offline
Hi F-16 Club members. I also plunged in and purchased a kit in the Tiger meat scheme, had light lenses installed (scale-like), navigation, strobes and wing tipped lights. I purchased a JR DS8411 for steering. Is this wrong? Do I absolutely need analog servo for steering? If I do can someone reccomment a good one to get that has metal gears. I want metal gears in all of my servos.
Posts: 1468
Joined: 4/13/2002 From: Clifton,
NJ, USA Status: offline
WhoDaMan, That's the scheme I'm going to use, so I guess there will be at least two painted up in Belgium colors. I was going to do the "Spitfire" scheme, but it was just too much work. I made up the 4 IFF antennas ("bird slicers" that go on the nose and the ECM pod that goes under the nose; at least it's different than your average F-16 Just waiting for the pilot, "Mikey" to send me a couple of detail shots of some lettering and the squadron patch. BRG, Jon
I liked the Skymaster one piece main landing gear unit, easy to bolt in but dont think they have a positive up lock, maybe a mute point.
Bill Cunningham
Skymaster new version F-16 (1/6) gears have special geometry linkages/cylinders arrangement, this design can provide positive down lock in very low air pressure and no need small cylinders in knees of main-gear tension-linkages( less cylinders and more reliable). For gear up position, these gears have not positive up lock but 100 psi pressure can keep them in that position strongly. Because all tension-linkage(main) and push-linkage(nose) are functional truss structure, they spread landing load to wide mounting base. Compare to old version design( positive up/down lock in pivots ), this design reduce stress of components dramatically and allow us to save more weight( about 600gram) of whole gear set. These new gears need small air pressure applied in cylinder gear-down-side to keep positive down lock, we highly recommend using servo-drived mechanical valve in landing gear operation, because 2-way electronic valve always bleed air from cylinder after Rx power off.
Posts: 2464
Joined: 12/8/2001 From: Davis,
CA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: F106A
WhoDaMan, That's the scheme I'm going to use, so I guess there will be at least two painted up in Belgium colors. I was going to do the "Spitfire" scheme, but it was just too much work. I made up the 4 IFF antennas ("bird slicers" that go on the nose and the ECM pod that goes under the nose; at least it's different than your average F-16 Just waiting for the pilot, "Mikey" to send me a couple of detail shots of some lettering and the squadron patch. BRG, Jon
Hi Jon: That is awesome bud, I know yours will be done way before mine, Here are a couple of othere good schemes, I like the black white and grey
Posts: 273
Joined: 4/2/2006 From: Chatham,
IL, USA Status: offline
I recieved my Skymaster 1/6 F16 about a month ago,just about ready for paint.Anyone have any pics of destert camo scemes?I have found the Isreali schemes but not to fond of the colors.Also I would assume my kit is the latest version,but after seeing Andy's post I took a look at my wings and it apears I have one hinge line on the inboard edge that has ripped about 3/16.If this has happened with the small amount of moving the airlon checking for freedom of movement and travel distance I can not see it lasting very long at all,since it is very close to were the control horn will mount.Also airlon movement is pretty stiff in the down direction and limited to only about 1.5cm is this normal. Thanks Joe, Chatham IL
< Message edited by flyexperimental -- 12/27/2007 3:55:39 AM >
Posts: 127
Joined: 7/21/2007 From: Timonium,
MD, USA Status: offline
Merry Christmas to all my fellow F-16 club members. Even though I'm grateful for Santa being so kind to me that he rewarded me with such a nice bird, I feel heavy-hearted that I hope you would not mind me posing a question. I acquired my jet through Details4Scale and my intension was to have light lenses, (Navigation, Strobes, Positionals and Landing lights) as well as Speed breaks, Drag Chute and a functional opening Canopy. For two months my jet had very little done on it I finally decided to ask for my jet back. Well, after receiving the kit and going through all the parts I noticed that the rudder had been glued to the vertical fin, it would not move an inch either way. Is there a way to remove the rudder without damaging the tail fin or would it be best to have the entire fin replaced.
Posts: 127
Joined: 7/21/2007 From: Timonium,
MD, USA Status: offline
I guess he wanted to hinge the rudder but some glue ended up where it should not have been. I tried moving the rudder left or right. It would not budge.
I guess he wanted to hinge the rudder but some glue ended up where it should not have been. I tried moving the rudder left or right. It would not budge.
Try this thin blade saw that with fine teeth, you can use it cut hinges from rudder gap then drill new holes for new hinges. Hope this helpful.
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Jets >> RE: s/m 1/6 f16 in my hot little hands! 
RE: s/m 1/6 f16 in my hot little hands! - 
that go on the nose and the ECM pod that goes under the nose; at least it's different than your average F-16 
