Breaking in an OS160FX?? (Full Version)

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nicethumbs2 -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (1/16/2003 8:42:46 PM)

Can I get away with breaking in and running the 0S160FX with 15% Cool Power by Morgan Fuels? I didn't do anything special (such as add castor) to my .46FX and I have had no problems with it. Please help!!




downunder-RCU -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (1/17/2003 5:40:35 AM)

Personally I wouldn't. It's a ringed engine so I'd be using at least 50% castor in the fuel. Also, because it's ringed, it needs to be run in slobbering rich for quite some time if you want to get the best out of it. I just had a look at the American distributors web page and they say it can be run very well on FAI fuel. If they're accurate this means 20% all castor. That'd be my fuel of choice :)




nicethumbs2 -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (1/18/2003 12:55:08 AM)

Thanks for the reply. Do you know if OS makes break-in fuel? This FAI fuel you mentioned is hard to find. But, thanks to you I won't fry my engine!




downunder-RCU -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (1/18/2003 5:31:16 AM)

OS don't make any fuels but it's not necessary to use FAI fuel. What you need is a fuel that has at least 50% castor and not too much nitro. But make sure it's a fuel where everything is mixed by volume and not by weight. There are one or two American fuels that mix by weight so avoid them. Powermaster seem to have a very good range at http://www.powermasterfuels.com/fuel.htm
Apart from their FAI fuel my second choice would be the GMA 5/22 fuel.

The reason I said to use the minimum nitro is because there's no way you can fly with the engine running in because it has to be so rich...so why waste money on nitro if you can't make use of it?




Homebrewer -> Engine Break In (1/18/2003 5:40:16 AM)

Page 8 of the OS 1.60 Owners Manual states;

"Lubricants may be either castor oil or a suitable synthetic oil (or a blend of both) provided they are always of top quality"

Page 10 of the OS 1.60 Owner's Manual states the following procedure to break-in your engine:

RUNNING-IN ("Breaking-in")
All internal-combustion engines benefit from extra care when
they are run for the first few times - known as running-in or
breaking-in. This is because the working parts of a new engine
take some time to settle down after being subjected to high
temperatures and stresses. Therefore, it is vitally important to
complete the break-in before allowing the engine to run
continuously at high speed and before finalizing carburettor
adjustments. However, because O.S. engines are produced
with the aid of the finest modern precision machinery and
from the best and most suitable materials, only a short and
simple running-in procedure is called for and can be carried
out with the engine installed in the model.
The process is as follows.
Install the proper propeller intended for your model. Open
the needle-valve 2-2 to turns from the fully closed position
and start the engine. Run the engine for two to three
minutes with the throttle fully open, but with the needlevalve
adjusted for rich, slow "four-cycle"operation.
Now close the needle-valve until the engine speeds up to
"two-cycle"operation and allow it to run for about 10
seconds, then reopen the needle-valve to bring the engine
back to "four-cycle"operation and run it for another 10
seconds. Repeat this procedure until the fuel tank is empty.
Refer to IDLING ADJUSTMENT section and fix the idling
position where the lowest possible r.p.m., with steady
running, is obtained.
Re-start and adjust the needle-valve so that the engine just
breaks into "two-cycle" from "four-cycle" operation, then
make three or four flights, avoiding successive "nose-up"
flights.

During subsequent flights, the needle-valve can be
gradually closed to give more power.
However, if the engine shows signs of running too lean, the
next flight should be set richer. After a total of ten to fifteen
flights, the engine should run continuously, at its optimum
needle-valve setting, without loss of power.

Coolpower is 17% oil and was for many years recommended by name in OS's owner's manual. However, OS owner's manual now recommend a fuel containing 18% oil. If you wish, 2-3 ounces of castor or synthetic oil wouldn't hurt one bit. I don't think using Coolpower without adding oil would be harmful at all as long as you don't run the engine too lean. Larger engines actually don't need as much oil % in their fuel as smaller engines do.




nicethumbs2 -> THANKS GUYS!!! (1/21/2003 5:31:55 PM)

downunder, Homebrew,
Hey guys thank you so much for the tips. I went to the local pharmacy and picked up some 100% pure castor oil and mixed 8oz of it into 1gal. of 15% cool power (yep I know big waste of money and nitro, but it was all I had).

I followed the break-in procedures to the letter. It was running so rich that you could see the smoke 4-5 houses down the street. It seemed to run very smoothly, and the idle was perfect right out of the box! I could'nt be more happy!

Thanks again!

James




bluefronted -> Medicinal Castor (2/4/2003 12:10:24 AM)

I have been told and have read on the net somewhere that castor from pharmacies or the type used for medicinal use , does not have the superior lub qualities of the first press type.The medicinal type castor has been refined to ..... I don't know how much , but this refinning process takes away alot of the lub properties.

If you buy castor for r/c ask for "fist press" type ,I guess first press explains what it means . CASTROL M is one of the best types / qualities available.

Note: CASTROL MSR is synthetic , CASTROL M - castor 100%




downunder-RCU -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (2/4/2003 6:47:16 PM)

bluefronted...it seems that both South Africa and Australia are lucky in that we can get Castrol M but in America I think the nearest equivalent is Bakers AA.




bluefronted -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (2/4/2003 7:28:38 PM)

In South Africa , they've stopeed bring ing in Castrol M , Don't know why , we have to source it ourselves




ShoestringRacer -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (2/6/2003 11:21:57 AM)

yeah I wonder about castor bought in a pharmacy...I would use Klotz Benol castor which is excellent....motorcycle shops usually have some good castor on hand too




h82crash -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (2/12/2003 10:46:01 AM)

Oh my gosh! Not the weight vs. volume thing! :eek: See this thread; http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tm.asp?m=423640 and the "Coefficients" thread a couple below.
I digress. Run a tank of what you're going to fly it with, kinda rich, then fly it. We have several of these engines at our field and have the best luck running it with a Perry VP-30 pump. Ultra reliable. After primed it's a first flip start every time. After my first tank I set the high and low needles and got a 1800 rpm idle. It's never missed a beat! I have to second Skerlock's statement "Best running engine I own." Wow, all this ritual, voodoo on break in. Some engines need a long break in but not this one. Probably shouldn't hover until about the 10th flight..




downunder-RCU -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (2/12/2003 11:03:43 AM)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by h82crash
Wow, all this ritual, voodoo on break in.[/QUOTE]
:) Well this ritual, voodoo has been developed over the last 60 years or so but it's only for the guys who want to get the best from their engines.




nicethumbs2 -> Thanks Everyone! (2/12/2003 10:16:25 PM)

Thanks for all the replies. That coefficient stuff made my head hurt!! I'm very happy with the engine! I have about 3 or 4 tanks through it now. I think the best part is being able to touch the cylinder right after shut down and its not even hot!! I'm going to actually fly it soon. I feel much more comfortable from all your inputs!!

Thanks again!! :D :D :D




h82crash -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (2/13/2003 11:16:20 AM)

Your break in procedure won't hurt and I 'll try not to discourage anyone who believes it is a necessity. I don't have 60 years experience, only about 27 years with model engines and 20 with automobiles. Break-in allows new parts to wear in together and mate. I believe engines do need break-in and if the engine is not reliable until it is, then run it on the ground. Flying a reliable engine after a 20 minute break-in will do what to it? Break-in faster? Two of my engines have failed; An OS 46 with the cylinder peel problem(actually still ran fine) and a Saito with a faulty crank bearing, the cage broke, after 17 hours of running (oh, I keep records). The only engine that has worn out was a cheap Dynamite 12 with a few hours of 30,000 rpm runs on low oil racing fuel in a racing environment. Eventually did't have enough compression.
Pardon me, I don't intend to start an argument but in fact, I'm soliciting data to prove to me why I should buy into the voodoo. I'll keep an open mind. BTW, I really think the whole weight vs. volume is hilarious. We're talking virtually immeasurable differences.




bluefronted -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (2/13/2003 11:44:00 AM)

From experience with r/c engines over the years , an engine , no matter if it is an OS , Webra , YS , needs at least 5 liters or a gallon of fuel thro' it to give you it's actual or real performance.

Some say 2 gallons , I agree some engines need 2 gallons or so , like the OS 60 , 90 heli engines.Aftewr about 2 gallons you will notice mid range setting problems , this means the engines parts are "moulded" well to one another.




h82crash -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (2/14/2003 10:32:58 AM)

This is an area where I disagree. Different manufacturers build to different tolerences. If you buy a Magnum, it's already worn out. A Saito has monster compression right out of the box. ABC engines can't be run too rich in break-in or the cylinder won't expand, ect. The differences are endless. If you're talking race engines, after 2 gallons, they're done.

My theory, and it could be flawed, for ringed engines, if it has good compression the ring is already seated. A breif run-in to mate bearings and wash away initial wear materials and its good to go. That's not to say abuse it. Just make sure you don't run it lean and give it an hour or so of run time before extended full power runs. This is the OS 160. There is a "click" of us at our field with these and we found it needs a pump or the lean run is inevitable, plus we got about 500 rpm's as a bonus. 18x8 is the prop for this engine.

On fuel, I've run all castor, all synth, and blends and never found any difference in longevity or temp problems. One to stay away from is Blue Thunder, the blue dye in the lube crystalized and would freeze my engine between runs, or maybe it was the lube itself?




nicethumbs2 -> Good Idea!! (2/14/2003 6:19:06 PM)

Thanks for the pump info. I couldn't decide if I was going to use one or not...now it's a no brainer. Should I choose a Kline or a perry??




downunder-RCU -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (2/14/2003 7:50:13 PM)

Any ringed engine must be run in even if the compression feels good. It's not just the surface finish against the liner or the fact that the ring isn't necessarily perfectly round but it's also got to mate the lower surface of the ring in the piston groove.

Also, a pump by itself can't give extra revs. This is entirely set up by the carb needle and nothing else.




h82crash -> Breaking in an OS160FX?? (2/14/2003 9:17:52 PM)

Downunder, I agree the ring needs more breakin, I just fly mine while it's happening. Needle settings? Yeah, in theory. And when the muffler doesn't provide enough pressure to the tank and it is still lean at 6 turns out= carb needles setting ineffective. Restricting the exhaust to get the pressure and choking the exhaust flow also doesn't provide the maximum efficiency. Adding the pump does. And we got 500, fact. After the positive results with the 160, a flier at our field bought a pump for all his engines. Boosted performance for all!
Say it isn't so! Inadequate fuel supply inherent in design from more than one model engine make and size? I can't believe it! NO, these engines are perfect from the manufacturer!


Nicethumbs, we're using the Perry VP-30 for two reasons. 1 it costs half of the Kline ($27 @ a large mail order retailer) and it does not pressurize the tank like the Kline, so no risk of rupturing the tank or fuel lines blowing off.




nicethumbs2 -> Thanks H82CRASH!! (2/14/2003 9:24:44 PM)

Perry it is!!




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