Posts: 116
Joined: 1/18/2004 From: crestview,
FL, USA Status: offline
I'm coming in right at 18 lbs on mine..... sounds like that is about what most people are reporting. Flies great too, the my only gripe is the amount of belly coupling when in a knife edge but other than that I love it.....Flew the heck out of it today and broke the 2 bottom hinges on my rudder so looks like it's done for about a week or 2. Good luck..
Posts: 164
Joined: 6/27/2006 From: Eastampton,
NJ, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: shogunmst
I'm coming in right at 18 lbs on mine..... sounds like that is about what most people are reporting. Flies great too, the my only gripe is the amount of belly coupling when in a knife edge but other than that I love it.....Flew the heck out of it today and broke the 2 bottom hinges on my rudder so looks like it's done for about a week or 2. Good luck..
Shawn
At 18 lbs, is your considered "stock". Have you used any carbon or fiberglass?
Yea, I was a little curious about the flimsy little pin that holds the two ends of the hinge together. I figured they must work because every body uses Robart hinges. Yours is the first I've heard of, but it makes sense. We go crazy with high-torque this, and heavy-duty that, but those hinges... Any body else experienced the same???
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Posts: 164
Joined: 6/27/2006 From: Eastampton,
NJ, USA Status: offline
I mounted the canopy and got one wing covered. For the canopy, I used Power Poxy super cement. It was what our BX had and it seemed like it would do the trick (flexible, good working time, plastic safe, and waterproof...OK, I hope I never have to worry about waterproof). I trimmed the canopy with some short-bladed craft scissors. They allow you to make cuts while turning the blade to keep with the contour of the canopy. I first marked around the bottom with a Sharpie so I could see where I wanted to cut. I made relief cuts as I went. On the side rail part of the canopy, I made my mark just above the part where the plastic starts to flange out. One of the pics show the area where the trimmed canopy didn't follow the curve of the rail on the hatch, so I free-handed a line to follow the curve, trimmed off the plastic, and then used that piece to trace the same line on the other side. Be sure to always account for the thickness of the Sharpie when trimming along a line. Along the front, I made the cut just forward of the flange in order to leave a "lip" per Tom's directions. You can see in one of the pics, that the aft part of the canopy need trimmed to follow the line of the aft canopy bow. I left an 1/4" overlap at the back that fits over the turtle deck. Once I got it all trimmed up, I scuffed the Ultracote where I knew the glue would be to provide a good surface for the glue to bite into. Here's where things got a little messy: I put a small bead of glue around the rim of the canopy and proceeded to lay it in position on the hatch. What I didn't anticipate was the fact that the glue caused the Rit dye tint in the canopy to come out. That resulted in the dye smearing on the white Ultracote and causing a bit of a mess. I wasn't too worried since I had planned to use 1/4" Ultrastripe to finish and seal the edge of the canopy. I've used automotive 1/4" pin-striping with my .60 size models and it works well. The difference this time was that the area where the canopy overlaps the hatch, is white Ultra cote with smeared black glue from my tint job. I ended up using white electrical tape ala Flyin Tiger's Extra build thread. It's much wider than the striping and covers my mistake. I will probably go back and do a second layer of the tape since the dark canopy can be slightly seen under the white tape. Overall lesson learned: Only use this glue with a clear canopy...it will eat any paint or tint you may have used.
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Posts: 164
Joined: 6/27/2006 From: Eastampton,
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Progress so far: I don't think I'll ever do a custom covering scheme when the weather is nice and my flying days are numbered. It is time consuming, but will hopefully be worth it in the end. I have only used Monocote and Ultracote in the past, and let me say Ultracote is by far the superoir covering. It goes on so much easier and gives a better overall outcome.
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Posts: 3
Joined: 10/5/2005 From: Grand Forks,
ND, USA Status: offline
hey tnakertoad, Richard Owen here at hobbytown, GF. just thought i would drop a line so you could get ahold of me if you want to fly my yak come nice weather. I use the manual choke, easier set up and works just as well. Also if i keep it simple there is less to mess up while flying. Also start a little nose heavy on the big 3D till you get used to her, then move it back.
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Joined: 10/5/2005 From: Grand Forks,
ND, USA Status: offline
Richard again from HobbyTown. PS, i do airbrush work if you still want to do any on your plane :-) good luck, keep me posted. hope to see it in the air when you get back!
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Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
For anyone considering using a Taurus 52 in the new 28% Edge, I just completed the basic engine installation and the Taurus fits completely inside the cowl. Cuts will have to be made for mufflers, but if cannisters are used there will be no additional cutting to the cowl except desired cooling areas.
For those curious about the ring mount used on the Taurus it's no problem. In thinking I was going to need to remove some of the upper engine box ply overhang, I cut about an inch and a half of it away, but it turned out unneccessary. If you make the engine standoff (7/8" deep) the same outside dimension as the engine mounting ring it all fits just peachy. I'll post some pics in the next day or so for those using the same engine.
Something else of note that's nice to see. In every ARF I have assembled up to now I've had to add some 1/8 or 3/32" lite ply to the back side of all the servo mounting plates to have enough material for the screws to bite into. With this new Edge, Tom has taken note and had the factory increase the thickness of the servo mounting plates. Finally an ARF that you know the screws holding the servos will be getting a good hold at the threads.
< Message edited by Silversurfer -- 2/18/2007 10:54:58 PM >
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Posts: 116
Joined: 1/18/2004 From: crestview,
FL, USA Status: offline
The flying weight of my Edge is a little less than 18lbs. Kept the weight down by not adding unnecessary stuff like regulators and power expanders, keep it simple, running 2 RX batteries on seprate switches going to the RX (6v each) and one to the ignition. Nothing special here. Keep this stuff as simple as possible at this level, even running a simular setup in my 35% Yak, only difference in these 2 is that I am running Fromeco batts and regulators. Hope this helps you out. Later Shawn
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Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
With the new version of the Edge it takes very little effort to come in below 17 pounds. I re-weighed mine on the company shipping scale which is large enough to sit the plane on. It's VERY accurate. 16.8 pounds dry. That was with a carbon wing tube, Taurus 52 and J&A pitts muffler, Fromeco 4,800mAh Lion flight pack with regulator/switch, 2,300mAh Fromeco lion ignition battery with regulator and DSC switch, and RCBlimpro tailwheel. There was a little carbon plate added inside for the florr that I made so I could move the battery around on.
Posts: 164
Joined: 6/27/2006 From: Eastampton,
NJ, USA Status: offline
Well, after a long hiatus, I'm back at it after debating on whether or not I should even get into this size model or not. Normally, I'd rather just slam a plane together and fly it 'till the wings fall off, but since it's single digit temps and 2ft of snow outside, you could say I've got some time to kill. I went ahead and mounted the gear so I could set the plane on the ground. I had a graphtech CF main gear from eBay that was already drilled so I made some adjustments and mounted it. It's not exactly the same size as the stock gear, but it will work. I probably won't get into any great detail on this thread anymore due to 1. They don't make this model anymore. 2. There are a million threads on here already 3. I could use the extra time to build the model. If anyone still has one of these un-built and wants to cross-tell the build, let me know. I am having a huge incidence angle problem right now, so if you have any suggestions, see "incidence experts needed" in this forum. If anyone wants/needs the wingtube/stabtube/maingear from this plane, let me know. I upgraded to CF and don't need the stock AL ones. Thanks - MT
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Posts: 164
Joined: 6/27/2006 From: Eastampton,
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After some guidance from Tom, I calibrated the meter using the line from the fuselage with the canopy removed. Here's what I cam up with on angles:
Right wing root 0" - dead on! Right stab root 2.25"
Left wing root - haven't set it yet Left stab root - 0.5" ** measurements are read right off the scale and may or may not represent actual degrees of incidence. The goal is zero all the way around.
I didn't post tip measurements since there's not much I can do about those and they weren't far off the root measurements to begin with. I'll make adjustments and post pics soon.
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RE: 28% Edge 540 Build Thread - 
