Posts: 164
Joined: 6/27/2006 From: Eastampton,
NJ, USA Status: offline
OK. Here we go. My first attempt at building a large scale gasser. I am still in the eary phases as I have gathered the plane, the servos, and the engine. Throughout the build, I hope to provide other "newbies" with an easy source for filling in the blanks left by the build manual and other threads. (Don't worry Tom, I wouldn't want the manual to be 500 pages either, you should see the 2000+ pages I carry for a big 4-engine jet ) I'll do my best to search out answers on RCU and other sites before I replicate common questions. I know my time is valuable and am sure it is for those who graciously take the time to answer questions on this site on a regular basis (you know who you are...many thanks!)
My Edge will have the following so far:
Hitec 5645s on ailerons/elevators, 5945 on rudder, Futaba S3004s on throttle and choke (Not sure about the choke, my engine is shipping with an optical kill switch, so I welcome opinions on which is better)
BME 50 with BME stock muffler (I may upgrade the muffler to a pitts or canister if I can find one)
For keeping it light, I'll entertain carbon fiber/fiberglass options whenever I can. I have CF gear that I picked up cheap, but they are not an exact match to the stock aluminum gear. They are 3/4" shorter and 1/2" more narrow at the axle. I don't think it should affect handling, but we'll see.
I went with the all white version so I could individualize the scheme. I am intersted in having a cool custom airbrush paint job, but that may prove to be too expensive.
I did find a small problem with the anti-rotation dowels on the left wing. They are about 1.5mm too far forward to fit in the holes on the fuselage, but the manual does address this by saying to elongate the holes while paying attention not to mess up the wing incidence angle.
Here's a pic of the Edge, unboxed and awaiting some art work!
_____________________________
Directions?...We don't need no stinking directions.
Posts: 11367
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
Super to see another Edge thread. I'm thinking of getting one of these new ones in a few months and being able to look at any changes between this and the original will be nice. Thanks for taking the time to put it together publically for all to watch.
_____________________________
If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
Posts: 1351
Joined: 9/30/2002 From: Surprise,
AZ, USA Status: offline
If I can offer 1 piece of advise, take LOTS of pictures. After doing 2 of these threads They really pay off. The Edge is a great build. Take your time and get it right the first time. Look at what everyone else has done too.
Posts: 116
Joined: 1/18/2004 From: crestview,
FL, USA Status: offline
I just finished up my 2nd Edge and I am really pleased with the newer version. The ailerons which are the whole length of the wing really help out in controlling torque roll while in a hover. Trust me you will be happy with this ARF. Only diffrence is that I'm running a DA 50 for power. Hovers at a 1/4 throttle with a MSC 23X8 prop...AWSOME, and pulls out with authority. Good luck with yours, if anyone has any questions I'm always happy to help out. Later Post pics as you go too.
Posts: 11367
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
Thanks!!!
You're first two pictures told me everything I wanted to know. The new Edge is now absolutely on my "must have" list! The view of the ailerons and elevators did the trick.
_____________________________
If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
Posts: 164
Joined: 6/27/2006 From: Eastampton,
NJ, USA Status: offline
Thanks guys for all the encouragement. I can't wait to get started. On another note (not entirely related to large scale): I wasted 9 hours of my life yesterday that I will never get back. I decided to put together a GP FlatOuts foamy for a little indoor action. Their hardware pack, a cheap plastic parts tree, is da debil! If you've ever built one, you know what I'm talking about. If you haven't, save your $ and get a foamy from somewhere else. Please excuse my rant.
_____________________________
Directions?...We don't need no stinking directions.
Posts: 164
Joined: 6/27/2006 From: Eastampton,
NJ, USA Status: offline
Here's a few pre-build questions I have so far:
Radio - I have a Futaba T6XA 6ch computer radio. Will I need something like the SmartFly Equalizer II to run both elevator servos?
Batteries - I already have a couple of Cermark heavy duty switches that don't have regulators. I understand that you have to have some sort of regulator with a Lithium battery. Is there such thing as decent NiMh batteries that I can use for the ignition and receiver, or do you have to use LIons? What voltage pack(s) should I use?
Servo extensions - Is it necessary to use noise reducers on extension leads?
Antenna - How do most folks run the receiver antenna on a large scale 3d bird?
Engine - I have an optical kill switch for the engine, but I'd like to have a servo on the choke. Is it too much to do both? Any performance advantage in using a pitts vs. the stock profile muffler on a BME 50? What's the best engine mount for a 50cc?
Paint/covering - I know H9 and TopFlite make canned spraypaint, but does anyone make matched covering and paint that can be used in an airbrush? I have always built ARFs and it seems easier to cover bare wood vs. cover over covering. Any techniques that make it easier or should I remove the existing covering for decorating large areas?
Any info/advice y'all can offer is greatly appreciated.
< Message edited by tankertoad -- 10/19/2006 11:41:07 PM >
_____________________________
Directions?...We don't need no stinking directions.
Posts: 2339
Joined: 11/23/2002 From: College Station,
TX, USA Status: offline
I would invest in the Smart Fly equalizer for your elevator servos. If you use Hitec servos and know someone with a programmer, you can use a HD Y-Harness though. Or you can use the equalizer as the Y-Harness.
For batteries, use either 4.8 volt or 6 volt packs. Some people use 5 cell, some use 4 and if you stick with NiCd or NiMH, you won't need a regulator. You need at least 1650 maH and I would probably go with either a large single pack or two smaller packs if you want redundancy. I personally like NiCd's over NiMH, but that's just me. I have a NiMH pack in my TX, so that shows you how strong my convictions are. I however use Li-ion for receiver and ignition packs. And for the ignition pack, just get a good 4.8 volt pack. I'm running Li-ion on my ignition because I have a 3W and so I don't need a regulator. Once again, chemistry is your decision.
I do not run noise reducers on my extensions. I have the servo's hooked up to them directly with shrink wrap around the connectors and then they are plugged into the receiver.
I drilled a small hole in the bottom of my fuse (where there was wood) and just ran the antennae out the bottom to the back. I have it secured with blenderm, but you could also use a small piece of covering. Some people run them in a tube inside the fuse.
I'd forget the choke servo since it is extra weight and just use the optical kill switch. You can use both if you like as long as you have enough open channels. I think the only advantage of the stock muffler over the pitts would less weight. They both should allow the engine to turn about the same RPMs. Probably the best mount for the BME 50 is the H9 mount, but people have also used the GP mount. I prefer metal for gas engines and I attached pictures.
Check this place out (http://www.radiosouthrc.com/) for paint that you can airbrush on. The matches aren't always perfect, but neither is the stuff you get from the covering manufacturers.
Posts: 11367
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Central, CA, USA Status: offline
The T6XA will work fine. You may want to consider picking up a Matchbox r the similar product that Futaba sells to do the servo balancing. The Tx won't do it and a Wye is not the way to go for numerous reasons.
I suggest that you use new wiring in your plane. Anything that has been stressed over time by lots of use or a crash before is a high risk element for electrical noise or later failure. If those switches are new then use them. There is no real need for regulators on a nimh attery installation if you keep it either 4.8 or 6v. I strongly suggest the 6 volt.
The extensions require neither twisting or chokes. Just use good ones, such as Cermark.
Choke servo or optical kill if you feel that you need the shut off redundancy beyond the throttle trim or ignition switch. Either one would be fine but both is massive over kill. Use the lightest one.
Antenna routing is a matter of personal choice and a source of considerable arguement. I like mine outside the plane, others prefr inside. Tom runs his partly inside with part outside on the bottom. The method that provides reception without glitching is the one to go with for any given plane.
The best paint matching I have ever seen has always been done at an auto paint store. Very expensive but also very good.
_____________________________
If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
Printable Version
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic >> WildHare R/C Support >> 28% Edge 540 Build Thread 
28% Edge 540 Build Thread - 
) I'll do my best to search out answers on RCU and other sites before I replicate common questions. I know my time is valuable and am sure it is for those who graciously take the time to answer questions on this site on a regular basis (you know who you are...many thanks!) 
