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Painting the cross members that will show under the hatch seemed to be an important detail to making this plane look good. Now the lower cross members fade into the fuse as if they belong there.
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 10/29/2006 4:31:25 AM >
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Getting the servos nested in their holes was a small task and a revealing one. Tom mentions in his manual to check all servo mounting plates because they are a weak spot in the manufacturing process...he's right. I had one of the elevator servo mounting plates come completely out while I was trimming it...only a small dab of glue was on it. The plates are not an integral part of the airframe. Special care needs to be taken to make sure they are glued in and can handle the rigors of fast flight. Those large surfaces see the most force when flying smooth aerobatics at moderate to high aircraft speed.
I wicked thin CA around the other servo mount and then put a bead of medium around the edge to make a small fillet. I glued the servo mount back in with slow thick CA, wicked thin around the edges and then put a fillet around the outside to make sure it stays in.
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 10/29/2006 4:32:45 AM >
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Mine did the same with the same fix except I globbed some 15 min epoxy on mine which added about 2 oz to the tail. On the next one ill be using the ca fix that you have used. It sounds to be a lot less weight than my slap-dash fix.
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Each of the holes in the fuselage was neatened up by taking a soldering iron and melting the edge of the covering down while making sure the hole was round. A handy way to get the holes sealed around the edges, I might add.
Now that the tail of the plane is pretty much done, I went ahead and mounted the elevator servos. I made sure to take the servo out after the holes were drilled and hardened the servo screw holes with thin CA. I wouldn't want a screw to pull out in flight! I securely soldered a 24" twisted heavy duty 18 gauge wire extension to the servo lead. Each wire was individually insulated with heat shrink tubing and then all three wires were pulled together with a final piece of heat shrink tubing. This ensures the leads can't pull apart and that I have the best connection possible between the extension and the servo wire...as close to zero loss as possible.
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 10/29/2006 4:33:31 AM >
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Flatlandmike:
I thought of using epoxy until the weight thing sparked the thought of CA. Thick CA is supposed to be just as strong as epoxy, as long as the parts have a good fit.
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To seal the hinge gap I used some transparent clear plastic film I found in the back of the hobby shop...it was marked as "hinge gap sealer" and sold in two foot by two foot sheets for 98 cents. I thought I would give it a whirl. I bought two packages, so, worst case, I would be out $2. I cut the sealing film to fit the beveled surfaces that were exposed when I opened up the gap by fully deflecting the control surface.
A one inch by eleven (plus a little) inch piece was used on the top and bottom of each elevator gap to make a nicely sealed hinge area. To keep the hinges from crinkling the film I cut small holes where each hinge was so the film would stay folded right down in the crevice as the beveled surfaces came together.
Now I won't have to worry as much about elevator flutter or control effectiveness, it is all taken care of (as long as that sealing film stays stuck).
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 10/29/2006 4:35:09 AM >
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Installing the surface control horns is a rather arduous task, just like most of the finishing jobs with any aircraft. I chose to leave the top covering in tact and drill the hole, then screw in the bolt to just under the covering. I used a 1/8 inch drill bit, not the 9/64 that Tom's instructions talk about, and took special care to clean out the sawdust every eighth inch or so as I was drilling the hole. By grinding the tip of the bolts to a 45 degree angle about half the diameter the bolt could freely cut threads in the hardwood. I screwed in the bolt then took it out to strengthen the threads in the hardwood block with thin CA.
I screwed the bolt back in, measured 1-1/4" from the center of the control surface and added 3/16" before cutting the bolt off. I am going to use 1-1/4" servo arms and I want a one-to-one ratio from the servo arm to the control horn. This gives me the needed clearance for the pushrod as the surface deflects on high (3D) rates, as well as the full torque rating from my DS 8611 servos. The 3/16" was added to compensate for the attachment nut for the pushrod that threads down onto the control horn. I want 1-1/4" from the center of the control surface to the center of the pushrod, not the top of the pushrod attachment nut.
To keep the hot piece of metal from burning my covering, I put some blue masking tape on around close by where I would be cutting. This prevented the sparks from burning the covering while I cut and kept the area clean too. It pealed right off when I was finished and went on the other side for cutting.
Perfect geometry is the key to perfectly matched elevator halves. I don't want to fight any crazy mixing, I've got my own learning curve to battle against.
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 10/28/2006 9:43:22 AM >
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Light, plenty of power, more than enough current and reliable as is necessary...nothing complicated here.
Duralite 6.0V Failsafe Switched Regulators - ignition, receiver, receiver Never had a problem with these switched regulators. Duralite service is excellent. The two RX regs are matched at exactly 6.05V (read when attached to RX). Six volts is on the upper end of the range for DA, but runs the engine just fine and doesn't dissipate too much energy to heat.
TBM 2350mah Lithium Ion Batteries (3) To slice right through the debate, it works. Great flying times...10 fifteen minute flights - easy on this battery setup, perfect for a long weekend of flying! Anything more and I would add weight. Each battery is only TWO cells...nice.
JR 945S PCM Dual Conversion RX I decided if I was going to run only one receiver I would run the best that money could buy. Maybe that will be Spektrum next year, but right now it is dual conversion PCM.
DS 8611 servos for all flying surfaces Why not supply the flying surfaces with as much torque as possible in a standard sized servo case? Ok, the case is a hare larger, but hey, it was worth the little bit of trimming I had to do. So far the metal gear JR digital servos have performed flawlessly over more than one hundred flights.
Hitec 5245 MG on throttle Metal gears keep vibration issues from being a problem by stripping the gears on my throttle servo, digital gives me the same idle as well as the same throttle position throughout the range of my input and the mini size gives me plenty of options during mounting.
Hitec 225 MG on choke The same size as the throttle servo but digital isn't needed on this little guy, but I stuck with the metal gears to combat that vibration. With well over 55 oz/in at 6V this little servo should be able to handle the choke actuation without a problem in the event that my throttle gets stuck and I need to shut down the motor in an emergency.
What better than some nice black self wrapping hook and loop fasteners to hold everything down over silicone rubber padding. I chose the 1/2" thick foam so I could smash it down a bit while tightening the fasteners and still have a 1/4" or so to isolate the electronics from any vibes that might make it back to the radio compartment.
As for the layout, we'll see if I have to move those batteries back, but for now they are in a fairly neutral place. The regulators were the furthest away from the switch mounting holes that Tom so graciously had drilled for us right behind the trailing edge of the wing. Everything should mount up with few flailing wires. Any loose wires I will secure with JTec fasteners or hot glue!
My receiver antenna is going to go straight down and out the fuselage, run along the bottom of the fuse and be held mildly taut with a properly sized rubber band or two. Notice: I taped in my RX crystal...HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 10/29/2006 4:39:30 AM >
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Well, final thoughts will come, but there is much more to come before we'll get there.
Yet to be completed:
Spinner back plate drilled Spinner cut for prop Incidences checked and corrected if necessary Enclose canister tunnel, seal wood inside tunnel Canister and header mounted Engine box finished, battery and ignition mounted Servo extensions secured Balance determined after everything else is done, then rudder servo mounted in appropriate place
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 10/29/2006 5:33:49 AM >
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Here we go again!
I cheated here...I had the old firewall. I carefully measured my previous Wild Hare to mark the throttle and choke pushrod access hole. To measure this passageway I initially made a smaller hole and worked outward little by little in the direction I needed to go for the pushrods to work freely. You can see that the cutout is generous, but even after over 100 flights the firewall didn't show any signs of cracking or flexing.
I made sure to put the DA-50R inside a protected box or bag while I was cutting and sanding since I didn't seal off the carburetor and exhaust. The last thing I wanted was to get dust inside a model motor that cost as much as a rebuilt Chevy shortblock V8.
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 10/31/2006 5:36:59 AM >
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Drilling the spinner back plate was a little tedious. My drill jig ( www.troybuiltmodels.com/Propeller.htm ) was a little tight fitting through the center hole in the Esprit spinner back plate and I didn't want to enlarge the hole. That center hole is what keeps the spinner centered on the crankshaft...the bolts just hold everything together.
The most important part of correctly drilling the back plate and prop is making sure one of the blades of the prop is at the 1 o'clock position with the piston coming up on compression. This will be the key to safely starting your gas motor without the fear of it backfiring or popping back on your hand. I don't use a glove and have never once had a problem with the prop doing anything but what I want it to. (Even my wife is comfortable hand propping it.) Starting the flipping at the 1 o'clock position and right before the compression stroke allows my hand to follow through naturally and with good force.
I used a drill press to make sure I got the holes drilled vertically square with the back plate. After lining up each hole with the drill jig and carefully drilling the hole, I placed a bolt in the hole to make double sure it stayed centered.
After drilling the back plate, I centered the prop between the splines that stick up to hold the spinner on and marked the prop. Using the drill jig I then drilled the prop from both sides.
This new line of Wild Hare R/C propellers looks promising! I chose to try the new 22x8 WH prop for the break-in of my DA-50R. The root of each prop blade is slightly wider than the NX prop of the same size. The prop is a full 22" in length and weighs 4.3 ounces (122 grams). The clear coat is so shiny that I had trouble taking pictures of it...now all we need is a bunny on the blades!
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 10/31/2006 4:41:11 PM >
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All Forums >> Radios, Batteries, Clubhouse and more >> User Product Reviews >> RE: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow 
RE: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Bla... - 
I chose to try the new 22x8 WH prop for the break-in of my DA-50R. The root of each prop blade is slightly wider than the NX prop of the same size. The prop is a full 22" in length and weighs 4.3 ounces (122 grams). The clear coat is so shiny that I had trouble taking pictures of it...now all we need is a bunny on the blades!
