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You are only showing 1 clamp, you will need two for sure. Also remember to put a stop behind the muffler so it cannot move backwards, without that the muffler will slide back and disconnect.
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Joined: 1/26/2004 From: Penn Valley,
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Well, incidentally the muffler is NOT glued in yet...I had to stop and put everything away for the night, so I decided to take a picture with the parts in place. I still have to enclose the tunnel and seal the wood inside, which has to be done with all the parts out of the plane.
I'll put two clamps on when I do the final fitting of the canister. There is not room behind the canister to put any kind of stop. With only 1/8" clearance between the canister and the rear of the tunnel there won't be any problem with it sliding off...this tunnel is *TIGHT* or maybe the MTW-75 canister is too BIG?
I'll post comments on all the previous pictures as soon as I get some time this evening.
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zzw26n:
You're welcome. My wife and I are having a ball doing this, so it isn't all work. I like building/assembling too, but I am getting the itch to get her in the air! No shortcuts here though, we'll document everything and make sure this plane is one anyone would feel confident building and flying!
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Now to make templates and cut out the 1/16" balsa tunnel lining and install it.
I made cardboard templates so I could get that perfect fit right from the first cut of the balsa. Light weight balsa wood should do a great job sealing off the tunnel as there isn't a whole lot of pressure in the tunnel and the canister shouldn't ever get so hot as to char the balsa. The only place the canister could possibly touch wood is if it slips back the rear of the tunnel is only a 1/16" away...nice and close.
The measurements on the carbon templates should make it VERY easy to cut more templates if I build one of these babies again in the future (you can use them too). The overall goal is to make this canister installation EASY and predictable from the beginning. Maybe we could even get Tom to include these balsa pieces and the canister isolation mount laser cut from the factory for sealing off the canister tunnel and perfect alignment of the canister without cutting and measuring, then cutting again. The laser cut pieces could come in the canister kit he sells and cut down on the build time by a coulple of hours.
Only one template was needed for the side/ were perfect mirrors of one another. The top plate needed four little holes so I could mount the fuel tank in the original location. I am gambling that the canister won't ignite the "hook-and-loop" fastener that will be passing only a milimeter or two away due to the large volume of air that should be flowing through the tunnel. I'll get the heat gun (temp sensor) on it after some flights to monifor the heat dissipation.
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 11/3/2006 8:38:52 AM >
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I glued the tunnel sides in with medium CA by applying the glue then quickly placing the balsa piece in place. I did both sides first, fuelproofed the first half of the canister tunnel. I used thinned 5 minute epoxy so it should be fairly light. Once the sides had dried just enought not to be tacky I put the isolation mount in, then worked the canister in, twisted it so the "stinger" fell down into the hole I cut just behind the cowl ring.
Holding everything in place was difficult, but with a few tweaks we could have a much easier gasser that flies great and allows me to do it relatively quietly. I kept the canister mount in place so I could feed Velcro through a couple of holes I cut in the balsa top piece. A good dousing with thin CA was in order for the joints where the canister mount just went on. Once everything was aligned and glued on the inside I was able to secure the balsa on the tank tray. The four holes will still allow the Velcro to hold the fuel tank in place.
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 11/3/2006 6:33:50 PM >
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Well, I've been doing the "other half" of many projects that have been covered here in this build review. The other wing servo, sealing the aileron hinges and building my wife a foamy, so now I'm back into the postable stuff! Don't worry, I won't leave anything out, it is just that no one wants to see pictures of the other aileron servo being mounted and the linkage being done if it has already been covered on one side...right?
So, here's the prop balancing technique that I like to use. I picked it up from a respected giant scale builder and pilot from the East Coast. This method differs from the widely accepted "DOD" method in that there is no externally mounted weights (velcro soaked in CA). The external weight could come loose, looks terrible (for my fellow obsessive builders) and has the potential to get CA on other parts of the prop...not to mention the amount of CA fumes that are produced from that much CA!
Here's the steps I followed for a perfectly balanced prop, tips to the hub:
1. I bought a suitable balancing device. I could have borrowed this item if I knew someone who had a balancer, especially since there will only be two props balanced for this plane (the break-in prop and the running prop). I chose the Dubro balancer because of its multi-functionality.
2. I drilled the prop bolt holes earlier in this review, but that is the first step to getting a good solid fit for the prop on the hub and with the spinner. Always drill the bolt holes before messing with anything else on the prop.
3. I balanced the tips of the prop first by placing the prop on the balancer and pointing the tips at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. I made sure to turn the prop over and check both ways to eliminate the possibility of the hub being drilled off center (a guy had this problem recently).
a. If there is a heavy tip it will drop to one side. The heavy side can be left alone, but add some clear dope to the light side to make the prop balance perfectly at the 3 and 9 o'clock position.
b. Check the prop after the dope has dried for about ten minutes. As the dope dries it evaporates off some of its mass and is lighter when dry. Apply only a little at a time to avoid making that side heavier.
4. Now that the tips are balance the hub can be balanced. I put the tips at the 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock position. The prop won't move if the hub is perfectly balanced.
a. If the prop does move it will rotate so the heavy part of the hub is toward the floor. Check the prop in all different orientations at the 11 and 5 positon then the 1 and 7 position.
b. Stop the prop from rotating at several points along the path of rotation to see if it will stop there. If it does stop before the tips are horizontal the heaviest part of the hub is still at the bottom most point of the hub. This gives me an idea of where to put the weight that I am going to put inside the prop for proper blance. I put a small mark on the opposite side of the heavy point of the hub.
c. I drilled a hole 3/8" deep and the same diameter as the solder I am going to use as my weight. I made sure that the hole would be behind where the spinner backplate would contact the prop hub. This hole will be plenty deep and won't weaken the prop at all.
d. I cut a piece of solder with side cutters as long as the hole was deep. This gave me an idea of whether or not I had enough weight. I inserted the weight part way and then put the prop back on the balancer. The prop hub was now too heavy on the side of the weight, so I slowly snipped off a little piece and retested the blade. As entertaining as it was, I am glad I finally got to the point of balancing the propeller in all orientations (11 and 5, 1 and 7, anywhere the prop should stay put).
e. When the prop balanced perfectly I simply pressed the solder down into the prop so it was flush with the rear of the prop. The solder fit tight and also the spinner backplate will be there to make sure the weight can't come out.
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 11/9/2006 9:02:56 AM >
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I'm back with the throttle and choke servo "tray" installation. I can see this position for the throttle working on any rear carbureted engine, side carbureted, even front carbed motors! Using the same sized pice of plywood I could have moved the tray to the other side. Now that I have measured all the parts that need to be fit for the servo tray I decided to make a carboard "trial fit" piece so I would only have to cut the plywood once.
I even cut out the servo holes so I could place the cardboard piece into the fuselage to double check that pushrods would line up. It was simple to line everything up perfectly using the cardboard method.
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Joined: 1/26/2004 From: Penn Valley,
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I cut out the servo tray with a sharp Xacto knife. It was slow and painful, but made for a nice clean edge. I split the two servo cutouts in half to make doublers for the back of the tray where the servo screws were going through. A doubler makes me more comfortable about the servos being secure in the mount up near the front where the vibration is. Hopefully the doublers prevent any oscillations that the tray may have experienced while only one layer thick.
I added triangle stock to the top and bottom on both sides of the servo tray. Everything was glued with Extra Thick CA, which should hold at least as well as epoxy. Next I'll install the servos and make pushrods for the throttle and choke.
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Joined: 1/26/2004 From: Penn Valley,
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I took a break from the throttle and choke linkages to paint the fiberglass spinner I got from Esprit Models. After roughing it up a little with some 320 grit sandpaper I cleaned the dust off with a rag and rubbing alcohol. From there I proceeded to paint the spinner with Cub Yellow Ultracote. The paint matches the plane's covering perfectly and went on in three light coats without any trouble. It looks so nice I'm debating whether I should clear coat it or not. When I go to clear coat it I'll just lightly sand it with fine sandpaper, clean off the dust with a tack cloth, then spray the clear in two or three light coats.
Man, I really like these fiberglass spinners! Lightweight and easy to customize for a unique personal touch...nice on an ARF.
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All Forums >> Radios, Batteries, Clubhouse and more >> User Product Reviews >> RE: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Black Yellow 
RE: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Bl... - 
I like building/assembling too, but I am getting the itch to get her in the air! No shortcuts here though, we'll document everything and make sure this plane is one anyone would feel confident building and flying!
RE: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Bl... - 
RE: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Bl... - 
RE: “New” 28% Wild Hare Extra 300 84”– Red Bl... - 
