Posts: 43
Joined: 11/4/2005 From: Downingtown, PA, USA Status: offline
I am currently building a Long-EZ 46 and converting it to electric power with an AXI 2826/10 outrunner motor. It is the RichModel version that is white with the red, blue and yellow trim. I have 2 questions:
1. Please tell me how many degrees of side thrust are designed into the firewall of this plane. I will be using a thin electric motor prop (not a pusher). The prop must be mounted in the reverse orientation on the motor shaft. The motor must also be connected in the reverse rotation. To do this I will need to counteract any thrust angle already in the model and change it to the other side.
2. Also, I have reand many posts on this site regarding the CG point for these planes. Does anyone know exactly where it should be located on this model? Any information or suggestions on how best to mount the electric motor will be appreciated.
< Message edited by re2smpc -- 10/21/2006 6:42:40 PM >
Posts: 842
Joined: 8/4/2004 From: Henderson, NV, USA Status: offline
Here is my conversion E-flite 46bl, 4400 lipo, 60amp esc, 12x8e prop this will be one squirrley plane!
make sure you get airmovement over esc...or get way hot. dont forget...elevator up is down...down is up. I did not put in any thrust..I will see how bad it is needed after 1st flights. Easy to do, I can just shim the standoffs. Vertical uprights are weak..Reinforce with some angle stock or carbon.
bobz
< Message edited by bobzilla -- 10/21/2006 6:31:43 PM >
Posts: 43
Joined: 11/4/2005 From: Downingtown, PA, USA Status: offline
bobz, Thanks for your quick reply. Please explain what you mean by the "vertical uprights". Also, I am interested to see how you attched the canopy and how you will have access to the battery. I am still trying to figure out how I will mount the canopy so it is easy to remove. Here is the equipment setup I plan to use:
Brushless Motor: PM282610 AXI 2826/10 OUTRUNNER Brushless Motor
Motor Mount: PM282002 Radial Mount for 2820/2826 Motors
Posts: 842
Joined: 8/4/2004 From: Henderson, NV, USA Status: offline
the vertical uprights are on the wing tips..(i don't call rudders..as they don't actually have a moveable rudder.
I was gonna try either earth magnets..or velcro..neither would probalbly be sufficient at hight speeds to keep canopy on. if you come up with better idea..I'm open for suggestions.
I have to make a mount for the battery way up front..I made a try and then just velcro strap in the battery. I have not figured out a way to cool the esc yet. but I do know it is a must..to get some air flow over.. I also am considering putting the receiver/servos on its own battery (2-cell lipo with regulator). I am not happy with the mounting of the front canard..and may make changes to it..I cannot get to the clevis well that is runniing the elevator....and would like to fix to take out the slop in that connection. (I'm considering cutting the bottom out under canard.. I was gonna run a 4400mah lipo 11v..but I like your idea better 14.8v..I may switch to that.
Posts: 43
Joined: 11/4/2005 From: Downingtown, PA, USA Status: offline
OK got it now on the "uprights". The kit I have is designed for the urights to be glued on to the wings. I plan to add the screws for reinforcement. I was also trying to think of a way to add rudder controls to the uprights. I had an idea to add a micro servo in the wing at each tip. I would then use 2 "Y" connectors to link the 3 servos (2 at each rudder and the one for the steering) together into the receiver. I don't think it would be too difficult to do (might be fun to try). I'll let you know what I come up with for attaching the canopy. I thought about velcro, rare earth magnets but have been told these don't work well.
Posts: 842
Joined: 8/4/2004 From: Henderson, NV, USA Status: offline
yes, I too thinking same thing with small servos for rudder..but they would have to be able to put out some nice holding torque.. those little hs-55 are way too weak..what about a pair of servo's inside the wing..and then a flexable cable system (like you see on the pontoons on water planes for the rudder in rear). You could also mount one servo in fuselage and put the to cable systems leading to a servo arm..one connection to opposite sides of the servo dual arm..then the rudders would work together..and only one servo would be needed. The plane is an engineers challenge to make better..and it have been shelved while I finish building my 43% giles, 33% yak and 30% yak.
Posts: 43
Joined: 11/4/2005 From: Downingtown, PA, USA Status: offline
WOW Beautiful looking plane. Nice job! Yes, I know what you mean about an engineer's challange (I'm an product development engineer in the medical industry - plates/screws for bone trauma.) My kit has been sitting the box for about a year now as I think of the best ways to complete the build. I like your idea about the flex cable for rudder control. I'll look into that. I'll post some pictures when I get started on mine.
Posts: 842
Joined: 8/4/2004 From: Henderson, NV, USA Status: offline
great..i follow you lead..as I too have been thinking this over..and have been reading what I can about canard planes.. I had a link to another ARF that did have rudders..and I will continue looking..it may give insight for us.. as for esc cooling..im thinking about some loovers and openings with some deflectors to the esc. I hear the plane is ultra fast and takes off and lands fast. A friend went to a club in Utah..and said they had one clocked over 120mph. dang..I just GOTTA go that fast!
bobz
nice job you got there..lots of nice tools probably.
I'm currently flying the yellow version of the Long-EZ 46 with a Super tigre G45 ABC engine with the stock "barrel shaped" muffler. It is PLENTY fast, slows down to a nice slow flight, landings are with long approaches but are not fast. Few tips---set the plane up so the front is a bit higher than the rear. This will give a bit of positive incidence in the canard and it will fly right off the deck once the speed is up, vs. having the plane sitting level or nose down where the canard is "plowing" on the take off roll, you give it up elevator and it is going to LEAP into the air--probably with a resulting stall to end your day. As soon as you touch down on the landing get OUT of the elevator, or else you'll probably be flying again! CG as spec'd seems to be fine balanced empty with NO fuel.
Ahh, but you guys were trying to figure out a way to mount the canopy for easy access. On the 46 size model I'm simply using 4~ 4-40 sheet metalscrews at the corners of the canopy after I applied a piece of rubber "canopy trim" stuff that is like a weatherstrip around the trimmed canopy. So here is the suggestion for easy access via the canopy. First, fit a piece of balsa inside near the front of the canopy that you can insert a couple of dowels. Fit a piece of balsa with holes to receive the dowels into the plane. At the rear of the canopy, fit a balsa "strut" across the canopy, CA a small piece of plywood on the top of the strut in the center, screw in a J hook to the bottom of the strut and up through the plywood, cut a #64 rubber band, loop it around the wing joiner tube, tie it in a knot and then fitting the front of the canopy into place on the plane then fit the rubber band through the J hook and "Voila"! there you have it!
Kind of like this one on the little electric Long-EZ that I also put together.....
< Message edited by Rube Goldberg -- 10/26/2006 8:14:59 AM >
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Long-EZ 46 Conversion to Electric - 
