Posts: 61
Joined: 10/11/2005 From: RSM,
CA, USA Status: offline
Thanks Orange Blast, I had the "Born on Date" made along with the Budweiser Hydroplane and O'douls logo for the rear spoiler fins. I don't have the contact information with me for the guy I used but send me a PM and I'll try to find it and send it over to you if you would like.
RCMagic, the airfoils are a very simple mod. The first set I rigged to horizontal hinges but they kept coming loose and started flopping around so I tossed that idea.
I bought 2 of the monster truck rear spoilers from tower hobbies (link below) and cut them to 4.5 inches each to match the cockpit conard length. They are simply held on with clear servo tape on the bottom on each of the corners. Sounds too simple dosen't it?
If you move them forward, the canard helps bend the plastic back a little changing your level of attack, etc. I like the tape for two reasons too 1.) simple to remove and also to adjust and 2.) if you tape on the far ends of each airfoil and not the center, a mini-air channel is formed between the canard and plastic that also helps push air through it and up.
Posts: 7
Joined: 8/13/2006 From: Acton, CA, USA Status: offline
Hi. Buddriver I have a bud boat but its not born yet still in the ferminting stage. My question to you is what advantage does the Iv bag give you and whats its size? and how long is your turn fin? Thanks for your time Steve
Posts: 61
Joined: 10/11/2005 From: RSM,
CA, USA Status: offline
Honestly, I think it's just a matter of personal preference. I actually just switched to using a Sullivan tank for the little added weight to the front of the boat it gives. I was using a 500ml bag before.
The insane turn fin is about 5.5inches long. Works awesome for these boats!
Posts: 61
Joined: 10/11/2005 From: RSM,
CA, USA Status: offline
BB Modss. . . . that's funny. My B-day is March 9th as well so I made my Bud's "Born on Date" March 9th. I left of the year because it would make me feel old. . . . lol.
Carlos. . . . . I do not recommend upgrading your engine first if at all on these boats. A finely tuned stock G26 is more then enough for this hull design. Start with proper hardware mods like I have shown in pictures in this thread first and foremost. I have helped many members on this forum with the set up of their 1/8 Proboats and the number one thing I tell them all is to start with the correct hardware and fixing the CG of these poorly designed boats. You can add a new header and tuned pipe which should help boost the performance if anything. Simple things like removing the stock pipe mount and replacing it with a vibration/shock absorbent mount will even help power a little.
With the current stock set up, More Power + Poor Center of Gravity and Stock Hardware = Sunken Proboat. Once you get some of the known problems squared away, then think about getting a modded engine. I had my engine fully race tuned by Ron Buck but even with the hardware upgrades I have made I am not using the total potential of this engine. I just sent him my stock engine and he went to town with it. There are pleny of engine modders out there that can help you out. A good reference is www.modelgasboats.com.
Good luck with your build and let me know if I can help in any way!
Posts: 272
Joined: 11/25/2003 From: Miami,
FL, USA Status: offline
BUDDRIVER, What is your opinion about the Cooper Pipes Tuned Pipe Chamber and Cooper Pipes HK-WTC - Exhaust Header Kit? The hanson pipe is not avaible at this moment.
Posts: 61
Joined: 10/11/2005 From: RSM,
CA, USA Status: offline
Cooper makes quality products from what I have seen. I personally have never used any of their pipes, etc. but I have friends who have and they talk very highly of their products.
Posts: 272
Joined: 11/25/2003 From: Miami,
FL, USA Status: offline
BUDDRIVER, Did you see this bearings? This is the Octura 3/16" Needle bearing. I think, It's a goood choice to find more velocity, What is your opinion?
Posts: 61
Joined: 10/11/2005 From: RSM,
CA, USA Status: offline
Carlos. . . . never tried the 3/16 bearing myself so make sure it will fit the strut. I personally would change your entire shaft to 1/4 like I did. Take a look at my strut set-up. This was designed by Norman Russel and is an excellent set-up for the stock strut giving maximum efficiency. I have a single flex cable/drive shaft that runs from the prop straight to the engine and don't have to worry about my ferrel rubbing against the boat or strut when the flex cable is under load.
Glassy. . . the servo arms are avaiable at horizonhobby.com. They come in different colors but i obviously choose red to match the boat.
Posts: 1866
Joined: 6/5/2006 From: south san francisco,
CA, USA Status: offline
Hey BUDdriver,i'm in the process of my first hydro build-up and need some recommendations..First off how i acquired my bud,the missus seen me looking at a 1\12 scale to fart around with and was reasonably (LOL) receptive to the current pricing for a used one 175.00-250.00,well to make the short story shorter,she took it upon herself to buy me one,think of my surprize when she told me she found one for 225.00 and was bringing it home,when she walked in with this 1\8 scale beast my jaw dropped... darn thing was almost complete (tuned pipe,stinger muffler,tank,engine mounts,HD servo's)!! and has all the mods done to it listed above(1\4 flex,sharpened and shimmed strut,etc..)all it needs is a engine,prop,reciever... I'll be using a stock z-26,w\w257 carb)(NO CLUTCH)and spectrum radio,my big ? is what type of prop to use and should it be a lifting prop? also, whats the diff. between the "other types of 1\8 buds ie:areomarine,t-4 faulk marine,and the Proboat??? thanks for any help you or anyone else can offer....will upload better pics soon......
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Humans never cease to amaze me....BlackSheepSquad-Banned from "the Zone" .....If I had a plan,I''d be screwed....
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RE: My Custom 1/8 Miss Bud - 
