RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2  
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic >> Carden Aircraft >> RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2
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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 11/22/2006 11:54:35 PM   
RobT



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Ward,

Step by step...
Since I use epoxy, I first assemble all of the sheeting for the part to be bagged, (they guys who use poly glue just tape the sheeting together) As I am setting up the sheeting I am sanding it. This skins get a tape hinge on the trailing edge. Next the "part" with all of the necessary servo rails, tubes etc. is sanded lightly. (wing in this case). I leave this on my secondary bench as I get the bag set up on the primary bench. I put the shuck down on the bench, and the bag on top. I personally seal one end first, but some leave the end open so they can work from both sides. Stuff the bag with breather cloth and release cloth cut at least slightly bigger than the part, and spread the cloth out smoothly over the shuck (but in the bag).

Back to the skins, wipe both the skins and the core with a tach cloth to pull up dust. and spread the epoxy out on the skins. (I put newspaper on the bench) The scrape the epoxy all off. If you see epoxy it is too much. The core goes into the skins, like a sandwich. I put a couple of pieces of tape on the L.E. so nothing slides around. Then slide the sandwich into the bag, close the second side and draw down the vacuum. I place the 2nd shuck down on top of the bag with a bit of weight, but this is not necessary. I feel the hardest parts of the whole thing are 1) Assembling the sheeting 2) making sure the core is lined up with the shuck.

Mark,

While cutting the 6.5" pieces I used a square. It was rare that the small pieces did not fit perfectly with Dennis's 48" pieces. When I found one few pieces of Dennis's sheeting that was not square at the end I just used this as one of the shorter pieces that did not have to be 54.5" long.

Rob

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 11/23/2006 12:20:21 AM   
zzw26n



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Thanks Rob .........

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 11/23/2006 2:03:30 AM   
as722


 

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Rob,

I do the whole skin and leave the 6.5" ext. for last. I use the 44" long sanding bar and sand the end of the skin I then attach the 6.5" piece.

Albert

< Message edited by as722 -- 11/23/2006 2:30:54 PM >


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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 11/23/2006 4:54:52 AM   
OnTheEdge



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48" sanding bar? Do you mean 24"?

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 11/23/2006 2:30:10 PM   
as722


 

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I got a 44", 33" and an 11" bar. There's no substitude for the 44" when it comes to leading edges and trailing edges on wings.

Albert

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 11/23/2006 3:45:53 PM   
OnTheEdge



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I didn't know they made them that big. Who makes it, Hobbico?

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 11/23/2006 4:57:43 PM   
as722


 

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Hobbico makes them and the 44" works awesome on wings.

Albert

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 11/24/2006 9:53:36 PM   
RobT



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A 44" sanding bar does sound pretty useful. Where do you get sandpaper long enough for that?

Albert,

I understand Dave has his package already...I was hoping to get the templates from you soon to cut the hatch, checks, and I think you said you had an extension...

Thank you,

Rob

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 11/24/2006 10:07:16 PM   
Kaos1964


 

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Rob, on the long sandpaper -

I get rolls of whatever grit from Lowes - they're about 6" wide so you have to trim them to width but it works very well on the long bars.

Regards,

Bob

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 11/25/2006 1:42:34 AM   
vatechguy3


 

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hobbico sells rolls of sandpaper that fit the bar.

tony

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 11/25/2006 2:10:49 AM   
as722


 

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Rob,

As Bob said I get them at lowes and cut the roll on the band saw to get two 3" rolls.

I'll send you some templates tomorrow, I was waiting to make the ones for the bottom hatch.

Albert

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 12/7/2006 7:49:37 PM   
RickP



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No work on this in the past few weeks? What's going on here?

RickP

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 12/10/2006 12:50:45 AM   
RobT



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I have had some 6 am to 9 pm work days so I have not been posting or taking pictures.

I instaled the wing tube phenolic using the following method:

First I centered the wingtube and phenolic in the fuse. A 4 foot straight edge was centered and clamped onto the top of the firewall so the front of the straight edge was facing forward. (this way the straigh edge cannot bend) The hole in the fuse for the wing tube was adjusted until the straight edge and the wing tube were parallel. Next a long wire is pinned onto the center of the rear of the fuse. A piece of tape is placed onto the wire (the tape can slide, but will not move on it's own) This tape is used to make sure the distance from the rear of the fuse to the ends of the tube are equal. When this distance is equal the tube is checked from all angles once more and glued into place.

I also tackel the root cap a bit diffrent than the carden instrucations. I mark the locations of the hard points and install the hard points Before the root cap is glued to the wing. I feel this gives me a tighter instillation than I would get if I tried to relive the root caps after they are glued to the wing. I am still debating drilling 1/8" holes for some dowels to increase the strengh of these. (But I did not have any issues with my 330) I have heard rumors of these pulling out in flight but has anyone actually witnessed this?

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 12/10/2006 12:36:01 PM   
RobT



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Every contest plane I have built has had the same bottom as the French Connection. I love this bottom for it's great visibility. Plus the French connection was the best airshow team I have ever seen.

Any suggestions for the top?

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RE: Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 12/10/2006 12:39:16 PM   
lymant3


 

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I have also heard the rumor, but only on one plane. However I think it's worth it to increase your glue are somehow - whether by adding the side tabs as Albert does, or by pinning. I have always pinned with an 1/8 dowel at each corner; each pin is also slightly angled out. Forgive me for the crude drawings.
t

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