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Joined: 9/29/2003 From: Whitestone, NY, USA Status: offline
Then "cover" the holes...
The small piece in the center is 1/8" light ply and will be the front of the cannister tunnel. It will also be where the throttle and choke servo's are mounted. You will also see 1/4" sq light balsa which the cannister floor will later be glued to.
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Joined: 9/29/2003 From: Whitestone, NY, USA Status: offline
Yesterday was not as productive as I would have liked, but some progress was made. I Drilled the holes for the gear screws with a drill press. Glued the caps onto the belly pan and turtle deck. (do this before you sheet it as this will hid them.)
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Joined: 9/29/2003 From: Whitestone, NY, USA Status: offline
As an experiment I used Gorilla Glue (Polyurethane) to sheet the rudder. I usually use epoxy and the vacuum bag, but I have heard that you do not need to pre join the sheets if you use Polyurethane. If this works it will be a big time saver.
As with bagging any part, cut the sheeting to be only slightly larger then the part, otherwise the bag will crush the wood. Also make the sheeting into a "book" by taping the trailing edge together. so you put a rudder sandwich into the bag.
Make sure the shuck that is marked down is on the bench as Dennis has made sure this shuck is true. The shuck is outside of the bag. Then the breather cloth and release cloth is placed in the bag, and the rudder is placed on top of the cloth. The vacuum is then pulled down. I keep the top shuck and a bit of weight on top to help hold everything in place. This is not needed once the vacuum is pulled down.
As for the need of the caps, I have always wondered why Dennis puts them in, but followed the his steps as I felt everthing would be an 1/8 of an inch off if I left them out. (1/16 top and 1/16 bottom.
< Message edited by RobT -- 11/1/2006 1:22:49 AM >
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Joined: 7/27/2002 From: Bonney Lake,
WA, USA Status: offline
Rob, I'm pretty sure I used poly glue to sheet the foam rudder on my Lanier Edge. It works like a champ when you don't pre-glue the sheeting becuase the end result is perfectly smooth. I haven't sheeted wings like that yet but I'm sure the result will be the same.
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Joined: 9/29/2003 From: Whitestone, NY, USA Status: offline
Ryan,
I have also always wondered the weight and strength difference between the two methods. I tried to set up a little experiment and do one piece with poly and the other with epoxy, however on the test piece which was 1 foot by 1 foot I could not see any weight change from either glue.
It would be cool if someone could do a right wing with one method and a left with the second to see a weight strength difference, but... It wont be me.
Posts: 674
Joined: 9/29/2003 From: Whitestone, NY, USA Status: offline
One of the places I deviate from the Carden instructions is the socket supports on the truss sides. Carden has you attach them as you are building the truss. I install them as I am attaching the truss sides to the motor box. Let me explain...
After the first truss side is attached to the box at F5, F2 and F3, I side the sharpened wing tube phenolic through the motor box and use it to drill the hole through the balsa side. The processes is then repeated for the second side.
The socket supports are glued in using the phenolic as a guide. This ensures the supports, and holes in the fuse are at the correct angle.
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Extra 300 Prototype #2 - 
