sfaust
Posts: 1793
Joined: 9/6/2002
From: Boston,
MA, USA
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by RandallM.
Ok, let me see if I have this right: For redundancy, I can actually plug a second battery pack with a switch on it, into any remaining open channel in my JR600, JR700 orJR 549 receiver without damaging the receiver. Then I would simply turn on both switches and battery packs when flying? Right?
PS Stephen, you don't know me. I love building, but I'm still trying to get comfortable flying. I feel like flying my planes is more of an assignment I have to do to pass the course. I shake like a leaf while the plane's up there!!! They nicknamed me the "Deadstick King" at the field. Dead stick flying causes the hair on my back to pop through the weave in my shirt! Just what I need to calm me.
An ARF isn't too bad with mishaps and bad landings, but a year long project is a heart breaker. SO I WANT THE ENGINE AND ELECTRONICS TO STAY THE HECK ON! Hence, why I have the fuel pump, Nelson driver, and redundant battery system going in it. Maybe when I get more comfortable and confident, I'll throw away one or two of these crutches. Meantime, the extra few ounces seems like a bargain to me. [/QUOTE]
Yes, you will not damage the receiver. Think of it this way. There are three pins for each servo lead that you plug into the receiver. The pins for the black wires are all connected together on the circuit board to the pins for the black wire on all the other ports. The same goes for the pins for the red wire, in that they are all connected together on the circuit board. The only pins that are separate are the white wires, which go to the circuits that control the output for each channel. Hence, it doesn't matter where you plug in the battery, since the reds are all connected, and the blacks are all connected. Here is a pointer for more info.
http://www.fly-giantrc.org/technical/parallelbatt.html
Using the two batteries and switches, you gain redundancy for the most common failure points. The switches, and the batteries. Lets say you forgot to fully charge one of the batteries, and during the flight it runs down. The second battery will take up the slack and keep on ticking. If a switch fails open, or one of the battery connectors pop out, you won't even notice it till you land safely. Its a great easy method of solving the most common electrical problems. Foolproof.
Couple of things. Always charge the batteries separately. If you use switches with charge leads, that guarantees that you can change them at the same time with separate chargers, and they will be charged independently. Second, always test them before every flight. Turn on one battery, and make sure everything looks fine. Then, turn it off, and turn on the other battery and check. Then turn on both batteries. Also, measure each battery with a loaded ESV meter before each flight. Do these things, and a power failure would be almost non-existent for you.
I know how you feel about the fear of loosing a year long project. While I might have $7,000 in the air during a flight, its not the money that bothers me the most. It would be the time lost on that project, that I could never regain, and the next 300 hours building a new one. When these things take on the order of 300 hours to build, you don't want to loose that much time and effort for some stupid mistake. Unfortunately, it can still happen at some point. There are no guarantees.
The pump on your engine, and the Nelson drivers are valid ways to solve your dead stick problem. The extra few ounces seem to be worth it in this case. If they are working, don't throw them away, since with your nickname "Deadstick King", it appears that they aren't crutches at all.
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Stephen
http://www.StephenFaust.com/giantscalerc - my hangar, http://www.StephenFaust.com - commercial photography
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Ok to"Y" harness together two battery packs? - 
