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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/24/2011 10:35 AM

wingco

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Hi Maverick,

I run an electric spit, started with the recommended set up but quickly found that it was only just enough to fly, so upgraded from an eflite 60 to a 110 and 8 cells, which means much more power and something akin to scale speed. The upshot is that I've had to dial in quite a lot of down trim just for level flight., not as much as 15 degrees, probably nearer 5 degrees. This means that when I back off the power to join circuit for landing it starts to nose down as the speed drops. Sometimes a gentle nudge of down on the crosswind approach gets it at about the right altitude as you straighten out. I've found that if you can get it to about six feet as you cross the apron at a couple of clicks under half throttle, then shut it down altogether at about two feet and glide in produces the best landings.
I had just as much trouble as you with the damn thing, I just couldn't get it to land which got me into some hairy virtually stalled at 6ft situations, it drove me nuts!!!! But stick with it, better to come in too fast with the spitty than too slow! Good luck.
And you're right about those retracts, they're pathetic! I changed mine for robarts, drilled out the stock unit and mated the retracts to them with 5mm piano wire. Much better, but then you can't fit the doors over them. At least it lands!!!!
Wingco

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/24/2011 2:31 PM

bsbauman

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I am doing my best to catch up and read this thread from the begining; but was curious, other than the landing gear what other mods would you make to this plane if you were starting your build tomorrow?

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/24/2011 2:38 PM

wingco

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To be fair to H9, there isnt too much that needs doing on the airframe. Cosmetically the sky is the limit. The colours wrong, the wings are too short, the cockpits the wrong shape and too big, the tail is too big blah blah blah. Oh, and Douglas Bader didn't fly a Mk2 with his initials on it, it was a Mk5, not that there are many external differences between the two marks

Once I'd built it I peeled off the D B on the fuse and replaced it with more authentic squadron markings (YT-F was my choice, with the serial number P7350 just in front of the tail) then sprayed the lot with mat varnish which makes a heck of a difference. Then I cut the cockpit down by trimming about a half inch off the outside green frame so it sat lower, which also made a difference.

Apart form that I just flew it and have about 250 flights on it now.
Enjoy!
Wingco

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/24/2011 11:49 PM

maverick11359

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I have to agree with most with wingco ,

The plane is well built . Though cosmetically I like the gloss finish heat shrink film .And if you paint it, it becomes hard to tighten up the covering after its sagging in the sun the first few flying days out.. I too trimmed down the canopy to make a lower more scale better fit .I made a couple of mods in and around the undercarridge . I beefed up the leading edge wing sheeting in front of the retracts after cutting the bottom out of the plastic wheel wells .I did this for access into the wing plus to fitt the electric retracts which close pivot lower into the wheel well (inside the wing) than the H9 standard retracts .This is a good thing because everything fitts flush in the end. It let me install shock absorbing struts on 5ml piano wire undercarridge ,to finish I silicon the outer H9 supplied bay doors onto the struts .This lets the struts and wheels disappear completely in the new wheel wells and the H9 supplied bay doors finish flush with the wing . I also brush another coat of fuel proofing around the engine bay because I'm using a nitro engine 4 stroke saito 125a ..

I believe like wingco you need power he's achieved it with his electric eflite 110 ,I achieved it with my new Saito 125a installed which is 7 oz's lighter than the H9 recommended Saito100 and more powerful. I'm of the deck in 15 feet at less than half throttle ,when given full throttle the spit goes balistic ( you should see it climb vertically). I changed props a couple of weekends ago from a16x8 to a 16x6 just to slow it down.

.As I previously stated its a lot of fun to fly just landing is a problem using factory settings..

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/24/2011 11:53 PM

maverick11359

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I should have mentioned in the above post , I use aluminum from aluminum soft drink cans to refinish and seal the wheel wells (fuel and oil proof)

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/25/2011 6:12 AM

Smoky

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wingco.
Thanks for that input, I will move my C of G forward 1/2 inch too. as I am also having issues landing this thing. On my last one, I had all but finished flying it. and both wheels down on the grass and when the tail went down, one wing tip went up and ground looped it. also it is fairly lively with the stock C of G.

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/25/2011 9:13 AM

wingco

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I should also caution to treat the approach carefully with the c of g forward, long approaches until you're comfortable. If you're used to pushing it into the deck you may find you achieve a lower altitude startlingly more quickly and efficiently post mod.
I take my time setting up for landings, gear and flaps down as I go into the downwind leg, gives plenty of time to get the throttle, altitude, speed and rate of decent right. Spits are known for their dodgy low speed handling and ability to float!
Love what you've done to the retracts Maverick, that sounds like the dogs dangly bits to me.
Wingco

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/25/2011 1:37 PM

jdhughen

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quote:

ORIGINAL: maverick11359

I should have mentioned in the above post , I use aluminum from aluminum soft drink cans to refinish and seal the wheel wells (fuel and oil proof)

this is a great idea. With mine I slpit the plastic inserts and then , extended them deeper and filled in lenght with glass. It was a pain and I was never really happy with the result from an "looks" point of view. I recently had a tip stall on landing, recovered somewhat but it slammed down hard and ripped off the robart struts and whole retract unit (seems to be a familiar topic here

), and just ordered a replacement wing.

Do you have any pic of your "soda can" job? How did you handle the seem between the can edge and the wing ?

Joel

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/25/2011 1:48 PM

wingco

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I've had a few hard landings and a couple with the same results as you. It may sound like a cop out but even when repaired the retracts mounts never really hold out for long. Easier to get a new wing, like you said.

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/25/2011 4:35 PM

spitfire66

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Hello,

I thought I add some input from my experiences lateley. I too moved the cg forward and I can't remember exactly where it's at, but it is forward of the 5 3/4 recommendation. I found that if I make a long approach as previously mentioned, I maintain aircraft control a lot easier. As I get slowed down I continue to reduce power the to idle and allow that altitude loss to maintain a safe airspeed. I don't add flaps until I know that I have the runway made and allow the airplane to keep losing altitude and carry the energy to the flair. I add flaps about halfway between the threshold and my base to final initial point. Don't try to dive bomb the approach or you will be using all of the field to get down. This airplane is clean aerodynamically so you need to allow the speed to bleed off. Hope this helps...

I have found that the stock retracts hold up very well. I used extra wood from paint stir sticks to glue onto the retract mount so that I could have the retract units sit further out of the wheel well. This has allowed for very nice and smooth operation. Also I added 1 more piece of wood to the back of the retract mount than the front so that it makes the gear a little further forward. In order to keep the retracts from ripping out I add super glue into the holes in the wood before screwing everything else back down together. This has made them strong, reliable, and with great ground handling.

The airplane flies great, but landing I still admit can be a handful to make perfect. I have made some less than stellar landings and everything was okay. Just had to rebend the landing wire forward and off I went again. Good luck

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/25/2011 8:14 PM

bsbauman

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Would some of you please post pictures of the reinforcements you all have done to modify and strengthen the retract mounts? It would be greatly appreciated.

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/25/2011 10:23 PM

spitfire66

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Hello,

I just wanted some opinions about my cowling and if you believe the holes I have will provide enough air movement for cooling. I have a ys 91 4 stroke with the muffler that will come out the left side through the pipe to the muffler. Comments and tips appreciated!

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/25/2011 10:59 PM

maverick11359

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G'day Spitfire66,

Its hard to say whether you have enough cooling on the cowl unless i can see the engine mounted in it as well . One trick that's worked for me is 6 oval horizontal holes 1/2" x 3/4" approx in size each behing the dummy exhast stacks in the cowl ..You have to hole the plastic exhaust stacks as well ( these holes in the black plastic aren't as big as on the cowl) .. This allows the heat traped in the top of the cowling to be sucked out as a funnel effect ..

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/25/2011 11:35 PM

maverick11359

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G'day jdhughen,

Her are more pics,I used 10minute epoxy to hold the aluminum together . I installed 9 vertical balsa ribs approx 1/4" square profile in a circle( each wing) to suppport the aluminum wheel well circular shape,also expoxied in place.

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/25/2011 11:56 PM

LeeHunt

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Hey just a small tip here, some will like it some not. From tower hobbies you can purchase some combing rubber that fits around the cutouts of your cowling and is put in place using thin CA it looks really neat and makes the cowling stronger and will not crack from vibration

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/26/2011 12:41 AM

maverick11359

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Thanks for the tip Leehunt ,

I know what you mean my mustang cowl had similar problems so I reenforced it with carbon fiber epoxied around the individual cutout holes . I've done the same on the Spit and also right around its entire circumference at the rear of the cowl for shape and strength.Unfortunatley I have no pics to show of the inside of the cowl.

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/26/2011 12:46 AM

LeeHunt

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Yeah mate this stuff is really cool and really easy to use, will try and find a link to it

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/26/2011 12:49 AM

LeeHunt

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try this link for those interested
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXG852

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/26/2011 3:25 PM

bsbauman

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Maverick, those wheelwells look fantastic, great work

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/26/2011 3:44 PM

jdhughen

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quote:

ORIGINAL: maverick11359

G'day jdhughen,
Her are more pics,I used 10minute epoxy to hold the aluminum together . I installed 9 vertical balsa ribs approx 1/4'' square profile in a circle( each wing) to suppport the aluminum wheel well circular shape,also expoxied in place.

Thanks for the input, I just a couple more Q's if you don't mind.

From the pictures it looks like your just using the "side wall" of the alum can and not the bottom?? are the sides extended all the way to the sheeting on the top of the wing? Is that a layer of alum on the bottom or some thing like flite metal ? What is the chanel from the "well" to the retract made of ??

They look great.

thanks

Joel

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/27/2011 12:09 AM

maverick11359

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G'day jdhughen, The channels and wells are made from parts of 3 aluminium cans each wing .The pics shows a broken channel removed last stalled pancake bad landing on the spit .I usually silicon the channels in which makes them easy to replace when repairing or replacing the electric retracts.The curve in the aluminium can makes it easy for the channels , just make a template out of paper first then duplicate in aluminium..I recommend to do the same for the sides of the wheel wheels(paper template).The base of the wheel well is also an alumiuim can flatened out and glued against the upper balsa sheeting , I did that first and then used the black decal in the pic stuck ontop of that aluminum as aguide to position and locate the base of the wheel well while building the ribs vertically( the balsa ribs support the side walls of the wheel well) you remove the decal before installing the aluminium sides ... My 46 size p51 mustang only has 2 1/2" dubro wheels and was much easier to build the retract wheel wells for ,it uses 1 alluminum can with its aluminium base intact for each wheel well. ..I used 10 minute epoxy for most of the build and full strenght 24hour epoxy around the base of the sides and the floor of the wheel wells(Silicon in the strut channels).

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/27/2011 3:43 AM

jdhughen

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Maverick,

Thanks for the details and the pics. Very helpful.

What kind of electric retract are you using ? Are those robart struts ?? will the electric retract lift them OK ?

Thanks

Joel

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/27/2011 8:06 AM

maverick11359

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The electric retracts are rated upto 9lb or 4.7kg and take standard 5mm piano wire undercarridge.They come from Hobbyking online store http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14838 and look identical to the Lado aluminium electric retracts,but fo a fraction of the cost. So far I have broken the replaceable mounting plate on only one of the plastic retracts and that was from the last pancake landing (which was easily unscrewed and replaced)on the Spit ..I have them in my 46 size 6lb P51 mustang and they work perfectly .My 46 size Mustang came with identical retracts to the H9 Spit ,with only 4ml piano wire , it bent even on the good landings which became a pain in the butt straighting them all the time to fitt back in the wheel wells.. Best thing I ever discovered elecrtic retracts easy refitt and remove the old mechanical retracts.

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/29/2011 3:00 AM

DirtTorpedo

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EIGHT BUCKS?????????/

EIGHT BUCKS??????????????

WHAT???????????

I was about to order some Lados for my spit....

EIGHT BUCKS???????

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RE: H9 Spitfire Build - 5/29/2011 3:16 AM

DirtTorpedo

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I FINALLY got my problems with my spitty worked out...

I have a YS1.10 in mine and the keleo scale exhaust.....

the problems were.... engine overheating and shutting off and the exhaust breaking...

Fixed the overheating problem on its last day of flight last year... switch to a 13X8 three blade prop from a 14X9 three blade.. solved the overheating problem right then and there...
the 14x9 prop reccomedations came from 3-d guys running the YS1.10... at low speed.. the prop is stalled and the motor runs fine.. once the plane gets "on step" however.. the prop gets a bite.. and loads up.. it would run onthe ground without overheating all day long... but in the air.. about five minutes.... the 13x8 is perfect...)

the exhaust flying apart.. well..that was MY fault... I used a hyde soft mount... and it allowed the exhaust to contact the motor box... and it broke apart like so
you can see the black mark on the motor box where the exhaust was hitting it
Moral of the story.. don't use a hyde sofy mount with an exhaust that hugs your motor box

Kelvin didn;t count on dumbasses like me using a motot mount that would let the engine shake like that!!!!!!!!

This problem has been FIXED by re-working the motor box for clearance, and re-fiberglassing it...

Kelvin had discontinued the YS pipes... BUT.. he had one left over that he sold me CHEAP... Thanks kelvin!!

I'll post some pics when i get time to snap some...

and.. no.. its not scale.. while the exhaust makes it look cool with blue smoke flying down both sides (and covering your tail holder buddy with oil).. real spittys cant go vertical in 20 feet!!!!

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